Apple connoisseurs, like wine buffs who search far and wide for top vintages, will go to great lengths to track down a scarce variety they have yet to sample. Which is why the Allisons keep getting new customers for apples that most people have never even heard of, let alone tasted.

Since they set up Yorkshire Orchards in 2002, they have added to their collection of apples every year, and
built up the number of trees at their farm to the south-east of York from 600 to almost 2,000.

Alec and Angela Allison have just 35 acres, and although they don't expect to be able to compete with the huge commercial growers whose boxes of produce fill the big supermarket chains, they are at least maintaining a public supply of some very old and very distinguished varieties of apple.

"We're a window box compared to the big boys in places like Kent," Alec admits. "But for a small grower I think our range is as good as anyone's."

The Allisons admit they knew next to nothing about apples when they started Yorkshire Orchards. Finding themselves with a smallholding which had been in Alec's family since 1918, they simply wanted to diversify into an area of farming which was different to their neighbours, who were producing things like butcher meat and pies.

With their limited amount of land they knew there was no point trying to compete with the large growers in terms of quantity, so they chose to aim for quality. Therefore, the first few hundred trees were planted with the intention of giving customers a far wider choice of apples.

They are especially proud to grow many old Yorkshire varieties which are otherwise unavailable over the counter.

One of the most sought-after of these is the Ribston Pippin, which was first grown in 1688 at Ribston Hall,
near Knaresborough. It is said to have come from a pip brought from Normandy by Sir Henry Goodricke. It is also known as the Glory of York, and has a strong aromatic apple flavour.

Since Victorian times, it has almost died out in shops, while its offspring, the Cox's Orange Pippin, has become famous and is widely available in supermarkets.

However, the Cox's taste is thought by many to be a shadow of the original apple. Angela says: "Ribstons have a more intense flavour and it's very popular. Unfortunately, we don't have many trees bearing it, so we tend to sell out very quickly."

Another rare Yorkshire variety grown in their orchards is the Fillingham Pippin, said to have been raised by a Mr Fillingham, who worked as a carter between Swanland and Hull in the late 19th century.

The Balsam, or "Green Balsam", is a small green cooking apple grown by the Allisons to keep alive a Yorkshire tradition. In the 19th century, it was known as the "farmer's wife's apple" because most of them grew it for the table.

Also coming with a story is the Hunthouse apple, which Captain Cook is supposed to have taken with him to prevent scurvy when he sailed from Whitby in 1768. Sadly, so far it has been what Angela calls a "shy cropper" and has yet to produce many apples for sale.

One of their first plantings was a variety called the Decio, which is reputed to have been brought to Britain by the Romans. Indeed, it is believed to be the oldest variety still in existence. After six years in the ground, this autumn is the first time the Decio has produced any fruit, and the Allisons have high hopes for its future.

Among the tastiest varieties grown at Yorkshire Orchards is one called the Calville Blanc, the apple of choice for French chefs making tarte tatin. Also, two types from the Czech Republic are growing very well in the North of England and have an attractive appearance. One is the Topaz, a special favourite with Angela's daughter, Fiona, and the other is called the Rajka, the choice of her son, Stuart.

Both apple varieties have been specially bred to be disease-resistant, which this year has been important. The wet, mild weather has not been good for apples, creating scabs on the skin. Although the apple itself is perfectly fine to eat, its mottled appearance puts off many people.

Another big problem is crop damage from birds, with even moorhens from a nearby pond coming to feed on the apples. They tend to peck one and then another. Once the skin has been pierced, insects get in to cause more damage.

All the fruit rejects end up being pressed, which the Allisons sell either as a straight apple juice or blended with raspberries or blackberries. "The kids love those," Angela says. "As fast as we can make it, they are drinking it."

Looking after the orchards involves the whole family. At the start of the year, the trees have to be pruned, but springtime gives them the chance to have a break because when the trees are in blossom it's left to bees to pollinate the trees. The busy time is August through to the end of October when they are all picking manically.

Many apples are sold on
the internet or by phone. Others are taken to farmers' markets or sold at regular open days in the autumn.

They are operating at far from capacity, so there's still plenty of room to expand. A few hundred new trees are planted each year, some of them varieties which are not supposed to grow this far north. Says Alec: "With all the predictions of climate change, I expect others will eventually be doing what we are in Yorkshire."

Yorkshire Orchards are at White House Farm, Bolton Lane, one mile east of Wilberfoss of the A1079 York to Market Weighton road. Tel. 01759 380375 or visit www. yorkshireorchards.co.uk

Open to public by appointment only but dates of regular Open Days are on the website. Their annual free admission Apple Weekend is this year on October 25 and 26, 10am-4pm.