Nowhere is this more true than when it comes to urban and street fashions. These are almost always started by the young in conjunction with music, in response to what's going on in the mainstream world, perhaps reflecting an aspect of society that is considered threatening.

For example, hip-hop fashion originated in the 1980s among the African-American youth of The Bronx in New York, when icons from the streets started wearing branded sportswear and heavy gold jewellery.

Ironically, in the early 1990s Chanel showed hip-hop inspired fashions in its shows, with models in black leather jackets and padlocked chains, in solidarity "with the brothers who are locked down".

By the mid-90s, gangsta rap was taking influence from prison inmates, with regulation dark denim gear becoming popular. The style of letting your pants sag down also began in prisons, although it's said too that it reflects life in poor, urban communities where clothes had to be passed down from older, bigger siblings to younger, smaller ones. Meanwhile, labels such as Tommy Hilfiger, courted the hip-hop market, sending rappers such as Coolio down its runways and in another delicious twist of street-trend irony, artists such as Sean "Diddy" Combs and Jay-Z started their own labels – which don't come cheap.

In the UK, as in the US, the link between music and fashion is at the heart of the urban look and both will be celebrated at a show this month at Clarence Dock in Leeds. It features UK firm AllSaints, founded in 1994 at the vanguard of cool Britannia, and quickly gained a reputation for rock-inspired design, collaborating with U2, Stereophonics, Kelis, Robbie Williams and Kings of Leon. Diversified knitwear, re-worked denim, layered-up jersey, blade-sharp tailoring and leathers are all part of the signature style.

AllSaints features at Clarence Dock alongside stores such as Replay, Rock Couture and G-Star (great luxury street wear, especially denims that are rough, pure and functional). For prom queens, there's Emma by Emma Somerset with day, prom and eveningwear collections and fashionistas will love Joy, Aspecto, Daniel Footwear and Moda in Pelle.

Unlike the US, modern cool British fashion is less about gangs and uniforms and more about mixing it up and making it your own. So go create your own street cred.