Aldwark Arms, North Yorkshire
Halfway through dinner at a new restaurant, a diner from a neighbouring table came over and asked if I was a restaurant reviewer. He had, apparently, been watching me sniffing, prodding and poking the food, and my – obviously not that discreet – note taking.
I had to admit my guilt, to which he said he hoped I wouldn't write anything because this was his fifth visit since the restaurant had opened and he wanted to keep it all to himself. The restaurant in question is the Aldwark Arms in Aldwark, and as you are reading this, you will see I have ignored his plea.
Chef-owner Chris Hill took over the once run-down village pub, and with the help of his family, has turned it into a rather stylish affair. It has only been open since August, so it is still new and shiny and would benefit from a little softening down, but that will happen over time. There's a welcoming bar with a blazing fire, cask and guest ales and a bar menu. At the back in the conservatory there's a very smart restaurant with primrose coloured table cloths, sparkling tableware and chic furniture, plus, buzzing around the place, an abundance of lively staff.
Chris has also brought an impressive list of credentials to Aldwark. His previous work includes the Mustard and Punch at Honley, Harvey Nichols in Leeds, the one Michelin star Hambleton Hall in Rutland and two star Whatley Manor in the Cotswolds.
His background reflects well in the comprehensive menu, which is stacked with local and regional produce. It twists and turns through the seasons and the region, and is steeped in classical cooking with an appropriate modern approach.
The prices seem staggeringly good value if my first impressions of the quality here is to be believed: there's nothing more than 17.75, and most main courses are hovering around 12 and 13. Wines are also equally well spread in type and region, and again well-priced, between 13 and 50. Poring over the menu and wine list, I can say that I became very excited at the prospect of dinner.
Complimentary water arrived without us asking, followed by a choice of either onion or fennel seeded home made breads – not charged for as an extra, as so many restaurants like to do now.
I will admit to testing the mettle of the kitchen in ordering a cheese souffl for starter and I can say this was as near perfect as could be; it wobbled appropriately on the plate, the flavours were deep and the texture light. A stack of crunchy apple, carrot and raisins alongside provided a welcome contrast. Delicious.
And so was a hare pasty, which was more a puff pastry box spilling its contents of tender chunks of hare and a rich sauce out and across the plate. Again, Chris had provided a contrasting texture of a supremely creamy celeriac pure which more resembled a smudge of butter. This chef knows a thing or two about balance on a plate.
My first choice of sea bass wasn't available. So I opted for a half lobster grilled with garlic and butter after checking its provenance – Hartlepool. It was a stocky little beast with plenty of soft, sweet, tender meat. The salad partnering it was just okay. If I have one criticism – and it is only one – the hand cut chips were a bit on the chunky side to serve with lobster. Fries would have worked better for me.
The night of our visit was steak night – 27.50 for two includes a 10oz rib eye steak, Rmy Martin pepper sauce, grill garnish, hand-cut chips and a bottle of wine. And what a great steak it turned out to be. Locally sourced in Alne, the meat was soft and flavourful, with a punchy sauce and yummy crisp onion rings, plus the chips were far better suited to this dish than lobster. I have no idea how Chris is managing food of this quality at these prices.
The puddings at Aldwark are all tempting, with banoffee pies, brownies, crumbles, brles and (our choice) a classic sticky toffee pudding with a butterscotch sauce and vanilla ice cream. This one turned out to be the only low(ish) note of the evening. The sauce was a little thin and was overpowered by the flavour of the sponge.
The ice cream, however, was excellent, as overall was our entire meal. I don't remember enjoying a meal in a new restaurant so much in ages.
I fully understand why the guest who accosted me during the evening wants to keep Aldwark a secret, but I'm sorry, this place needs to be
shouted about. Chris, his family and staff must be praised for what they have achieved and deserve all the success they can get. Though I bet when I next ring to make a booking – which I certainly will – and am told they are full, I will wonder if I shouldn't have kept my mouth shut.
The Aldwark Arms, Aldwark, North Yorkshire, YO61 1UB. Tel: 01347 838324.
Mon-Fri: Lunch Noon-3pm, Dinner 5.45-11pm. Saturday: Noon-midnight. Sunday: Noon-9pm.
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Saturday 26 May 2012
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