DCSIMG

Berries from heaven, and for free as well

One of the most wonderful things about Britain is our seasons.

Just now the rolling cornfields are looking so inviting with their harvest gathered in, and the hedgerow berries are so abundant this year after the wet summer, that I can't wait to get out there collecting them.

Blackberries may be pricey in the shops, but they are there for free in the fields and no matter how many you pick, you will find a use for them.

And picking them is such fun, a must for children and very popular with dogs, too – ours love sniffing them out and eating them fresh off the bushes.

Whether you choose to use a handful or two to perk up a humble crumble or to crush into a burgundy coulis, here are some ideas for using our native British berries now, or storing them for later on.

Berry coulis or fruit sauce

You can use any berries you like, but a mix of elderberries and blackberries is good, for any jam or jelly come to that. This method softens the elderberry skins. Make into a coulis by heating 250g or 8oz sugar with 250ml or 8fl oz water until the sugar is dissolved, then add 450g or 1lb washed fruit, bring to the boil then remove from the heat and allow to cool before pureeing and then straining. For a really fine, clear fruit sauce use a coffee filter.

This coulis is good poured over poached stone fruits, eg nectarines, with anything lemony or creamy, apple or pear desserts or chocolate cake, as a ripple in ice cream, or for decoration. It freezes well in small pots or ice cube containers.

Elderberry rob

This is a traditional spiced fruit syrup recipe for coughs or to ward off colds and flu, and to aid sleep. Elderberries are reputed to contain nine magic ingredients. Just cover elderberries which are washed and stripped from the stalks with water, and simmer with a lid for half- an-hour. Strain and measure the liquid, pour back in the saucepan and for each pint or 570ml of liquid add:

225g or 8oz sugar

1 teaspoon of cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

12 cloves

Simmer covered for-half- an-hour, then pour into sterilised bottles and drink diluted with warm water.

Blackberry, elderberry and apple jelly

Jam is relatively easy to make, but traditionally the skill of a preserve maker was assessed by the quality of their home-produced jelly, which should be clear and bright, and with just the right spreadability, not too runny and not too solid. The lemon juice adds pectin which helps the jelly to set, but you won't need it if you add some under-ripe elderberries which also contain a high level of pectin.

1lb or 450g elderberries

1lb or 450g blackberries

900g or 2lb cooking apples

the juice of half a lemon

570ml or a pint of water

sugar (see below for amount)

Put the washed berries, without stalks, into a large saucepan, then add the apples, peeled and in chunks, cover with the water and simmer until very soft, about 45 minutes. Cool and strain overnight through a jelly bag, lined sieve or the corner of an old but clean pillow case. Measure the juice and for each 570ml or pint add 450g or 1lb sugar. Add the lemon juice, heat until the sugar dissolves then bring to the boil and boil until setting point is reached.

This is traditionally assessed by putting a blob of the hot jelly onto a cold saucer, and when it has cooled pushing it with a finger. If it wrinkles, the jelly is reduced enough. However, this method means taking the jelly off the heat and then bringing it back to the boil if necessary. If you make jams etc, or toffee and sweets, regularly it's worth investing in a special thermometer which you leave in the jam while it's cooking and will show you exactly when the right temperature has been reached. I use instinct and a mixture of methods, and can tell you from experience that if the jam or jelly starts to darken a lot then it's ready, or over-done. Take great care when cooking and bottling it. I prefer to let it cool completely, then pour into cool, sterilised jars, cover and keep on show, or eat it straight away. But jams and jellies should really be stored in a cool dark place to keep their colour until Christmas when they make really super gifts.

Fried blackberries

One of the simplest ways of using them, and delicious. Melt a knob of butter in a frying pan, add a tablespoon of sugar and when melted together toss in three handfuls of blackberries and cook for three or four minutes. Nice just with ice cream or any creamy/lemony/ apple dessert, or use with sweet or savoury dishes as a garnish.

Blackberry and apple chutney

Makes 2.5kg or five 1lb jars

1.35 kg or 3lb blackberries

half a litre or a generous pint of malt vinegar

225g or 8oz cooking apples, prepared weight

225g or 8oz onions

a level tablespoon of salt

25g or 1oz ground ginger

25g or 1oz mustard powder

1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon of cayenne pepper

1 tablespoon of black treacle or molasses

225g or 8oz sugar

Put the washed blackberries in a large saucepan with half the vinegar, bring to the boil and simmer gently for an hour, with the lid on.

Meanwhile, chop the apples and onions and simmer in another saucepan, without a lid, with the remaining ingredients except the sugar and molasses, for 50 minutes.

After cooling a little, use a sieve to press the blackberry mixture and add the juice to the other saucepan.

Add the molasses or treacle and sugar, and stir until dissolved over a low heat, then cook over a moderate heat without a lid until nice and thick. Pour into sterilised jars when the chutney is still hot, or when it has cooled completely.

Stir round to make sure there are no air pockets and cover when cold with plastic lids or a double thickness of clingfilm and a rubber band.

Store ideally in a cool dark place. The flavour of chutney takes a few months to develop, so it will be nice and mature for Christmas.


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Saturday 11 February 2012

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