City Inn, Leeds
At long last signs of life have returned to the riverside at Granary Wharf, Leeds. Ever since work began on expanding and modernising the city train station back in 1999, there has always been a sense that a redevelopment of the subterranean area below it known as the Dark Arches would follow.
Despite some tweaks, however, it remained uninviting and few businesses based there prospered. But perhaps all that is set to change thanks to the arrival of City Inn. This contemporary high-rise, though it may be too business-like for some, is an enormous boost to the area.
Opened in late 2009, it's a slick operation.
The footfall from guests alone has got to be good for this end of town – and that's before the hotel's bar and restaurant enter the equation.
At a time when so much business is slowing down, the development is a vote of confidence in the city – so we're happy to be there even before we eat.
The restaurant, City Caf, is on the ground floor with floor-to-ceiling windows that overlook the canal.
At night, with the twinkling lights from Bridgewater House (or Dalek if you prefer) reflecting in the water, it's an enviable location – the sort of cosmopolitan scene we're all told Leeds has in abundance but which are actually rather hard to find.
The restaurant, a softly lit and darkly coloured bistro, is in keeping with the chic setting.
It's so polished it might almost seem off-putting, were it not for the staff, who conduct themselves with warmth and professionalism.
This is particularly important when a chain like City Inn might appear overbearingly corporate.
Instead, it simply comes across as a confident, well-organised operation.
The menu offers a good choice of familiar items enlivened with a modern sensibility, a credit to executive chef Scott Macdonald, who cut his culinary teeth in the kitchens of Marco Pierre White and Gordon Ramsay before helping to put Selfridges on the foodie map as their group
executive chef.
It's a good menu that feels sophisticated without being self-regarding and is tantalising rather than challenging.
Starters of roast wild pigeon breast, with onion tart, crispy shallots and raisin pure, and confit of pork belly with a pan-fried scallop, pea pure and a quail's egg were impeccably well presented.
The flavours are particularly good with the pork dish – each element standing out, but forming a satisfying whole.
The highlight of the pigeon was how well it combined with the rich raisin flavours.
There's also a wonderful wine. We were steered towards a zinfandel from Heitz in in the Napa Valley, in California. Rich without being heavy and full of vibrant fruit it almost warranted a return visit on its own.
It was bold enough to withstand a meaty main like a rump of aged lamb, served with braised shoulder, broad beans, carrot pure and a rich jus spiked with basil.
Again, it was a class act, which is why the blandness of the coq au vin we also ordered was such a disappointment. It looked the part and was generously proportioned, but the chicken appeared to have had all the flavour leeched out of it.
This was puzzling and with the watery stock surrounding it the meat certainly was not where the taste was hiding.
A side dish of cauliflower gratin was another misfire.
It was underdone, the cheese lacked that essential golden hue and the veg took too much eating.
A bowl of roasted root vegetables, with a touch of mustard and garlic, were much better.
So evidently well-oiled is this machine that we spent the wait before dessert questioning our own judgment – but after a little discussion we were settled. Definitely them, not us.
Dessert distracted and compensated. A bittersweet chocolate tart was nearly spot-on, the coffee ice cream would have been improved by thawing slightly before serving.
A manuka honey and amaretto parfait was light and refreshing. The mini flapjacks it came with were a little at odds with the elegance of the parfait however.
The bill was just short of 100.
That did not seem unreasonable given the setting, although for that price I think you expect every dish to be a winner.
The good news is, if you want to leave on a high, this is the place – just head up to their Sky Bar on the 13th floor for an after dinner drink.
With a cocktail in hand and unrivalled views of the city to your north and south, it's a fine way to lift your spirits.
City Inn, Granary Wharf, 2 Wharf Approach, Leeds, LS1 4BR, 0113 241 1039. Open noon-2.30pm and 5.30-10pm from Monday to Friday, and 1-3pm and 5.30-10pm at weekends.
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Sunday 12 February 2012
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