Divine taste of apples of Ampleforth inspires book
THE monks of Ampleforth have grown apples since 1802. The first proper orchard was planted at the beginning of the 20th century by Abbot Oswald Smith, and it has gradually expanded into a more streamlined operation.
Under the watchful eye of Father Rainer Verborg for the last 13 years, the monks are keen to preserve some of the old varieties of English apple, like Ashmead's Colonel and the veteran Ribston Pippin, which originates from a tree grown locally at Ribston Hall in the 17th-century.
Different varieties ripen throughout the year, and the monks harvest the apples from early August until just before Christmas. Everything is done by hand and no pesticide is used, which makes it a labour-intensive operation.
Father Rainer, looking at putting everything on a more businesslike footing, found his cider-making idea went down rather well.
The cider, a fairly lethal brew at 8.5 per cent abv, is so popular that it sells out within a few weeks. And the cider brandy is on sale in some very upmarket food shops, including Harvey Nichols.
When a researcher from UKTV Food approached the abbey looking for an apple recipe to feature in a series called The People's Cookbook, Father Rainer volunteered to make one of his favourites. It just happens to be called Heaven and Earth and involves apples and potatoes cooked separately and then mashed together coarsely and served with black pudding, caramelised onions and crispy bacon strips.
Next on his list of jobs to do was to finish re-editing a book of apple recipes which the abbey published some years ago. This work is now complete, and Cooking Apples is available from Ampleforth Abbey and selected bookshops.
"Almost 30 years ago, Fr Edmund Hatton and the late Caroline Miles published Cooking Apples, a collection of recipes," explains Fr Rainer.
Many of these had been suggested by visitors to the orchard at Ampleforth Abbey. The book was aimed at helping people to get even more enjoyment from the delicious apples.
"This new edition pursues the same aim but, since times have changed, it would like to go just a little bit further."
As well as recipes, Cooking Apples include some beautiful images from around the abbey.
n The orchards are open to visitors and customers on Mondays and Fridays (2.30pm-4pm) from late July to November. The cider mill is open for juicing on Tuesdays and Wednesdays from 2.30pm-4pm. Visitors are requested to check with Fr Rainer before visiting the orchard by telephoning 01439 766899 or emailing him at orchard@ampleforth.org.uk or visit www.ampleforth.org .uk
Loin of Pork with apples
Makes four portions
2 loins of pork
salt and pepper
garlic
knob of butter
3 tbsp olive oil
2 onions
caraway
3 tbsp tomato pure
litre cider
2 apples (Belle de Boskoop, Ingrid Marie or Lord Derby)
parsley
flour
cider brandy
2 tbsp arrowroot
double cream
Rub the pork loins with salt and pepper and crushed garlic. Flour lightly and brown all around in the mixture of butter and oil. Keep warm. Chop the onions and roast them in the residues left behind by the browned loins. Add the caraway and chopped parsley. Briefly roast the tomato pure. Now wash the font loose with cider.
Return the meat to the saucepan and roast it in the pre-heated oven (180) for 10 minutes. Cut the apples into quarters, peel, core and cut into generous segments. Add these to the meat and roast for another five minutes.
Carefully remove the meat and the apple segments from the pan, stir well, loosening any sticking to the bottom. Bring to the boil on the hob. Add a small quantity of cider brandy to the arrowroot, stirring to avoid lumps, and whisk into the boiling gravy. Let it come up once and take off the boil. Add some double cream and more cider brandy.
Slice the meat and decorate on a warm plate with apple segments. Serve with potato and parsnip mash or potato gratin.
Apple Burger with a Curry Dip
Makes four portions
3 slices dried white bread
2 apple (Idared, Spartan, Fiesta or Crispin)
1 onion
500g minced meat
1 egg
50g raisins
250g cream
1 tbsp lemon juice
2 tbsp curry powder
salt & pepper
knob of butter
olive oil
Steep the bread in some water for two hours.
Peel, core and finely chop the apple. Peel and finely chop the onion. Drain the bread and press out as much water as possible.
Mix meat, egg, onion and bread thoroughly for at least five minutes, until it binds.
Now add the apple and raisins. Form eight burgers.
Mix cream, lemon juice and curry powder and stir. Add salt and pepper to taste, creating a curry dip.
Heat up the butter and add enough oil to fry the burgers on both sides.
Tarte Tatin
8 portions
8-10 dessert apples (Orleans Reinette, Kent or Ribston Pippin)
150g butter
150g sugar
250g shortcrust pastry
30g sugar
50g butter
Pre-heat oven at Mark 4/180C. Grease a round, deep ovenproof dish of 26cm (preferably with sloping sides) and shake in 150g sugar so that the sides are coated and most of the sugar forms an even bed.
Peel and cut apples into six even segments. Cut out the cores. Place the segments on top of the sugar in the dish. Fill in gaps with smaller segments. When all apples are in the dish, heat briskly on the hob. Reduce heat as soon as a light caramel is forming (check by sliding a knife-blade in occasionally). Place in the oven for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, roll out the pastry large enough to cover the dish with a generous margin. After the apples have cooked for 15 minutes, take the dish out, sprinkle with 30g sugar and the flaked 50g butter. Cover with the pastry, tucking in the sides. Pierce pastry a few times with a fork and return to the oven. After a further 15-20 minutes (when golden brown) remove from the oven. Let cool for a few minutes and reverse carefully onto a bigger ovenproof
dish.
Serve hot. (The original dish is served without any cream, ice cream or custard).
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Friday 25 May 2012
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