The Royal Baths Chinese Restaurant, Harrogate
Before we start, here's an experiment. Close your eyes and picture a Chinese restaurant. What does it look like? Is there a pagoda-style roof above an ornate front door? Are the walls decked out with gold dragons and calligraphic prints?
Even if that's not exactly what you're imagining, it's probably not far off. Chances are you were not visualising this: imposing neo-classical stone pillars flanking the door, walls embossed with quintessentially English maxims, and ceilings tall enough for a family of giraffes to dine in comfort. And it would be particularly remarkable if your mental image included a door marked Turkish Baths.
Incongruous as they are, all these things can be found at Harrogate's latest oriental arrival. The spa town's grand Royal Baths were bought by an enterprising couple in 2005, and just before last Christmas the building reopened as an upmarket Chinese restaurant.
The owners, Hak and Monica Ng, have clearly put in a lot of effort over the last three years, apparently importing over six containers filled with furnishings from China and spending 1.5m on a very extensive refit. All while juggling the council's concerns about preserving such a prominent building's character, too.
It's paid off in two ways. Aesthetically, it's successful and impressive. It's a little odd, of course, but endearingly so, and it makes it rather unusual – a rarity. It's also paid off commercially. No doubt they'll have to sell a fair few dinners before they've settled the builders' bill, but by all accounts it's proving rather popular.
Our visit coincides with a week-long nursing conference in town so it's a particularly busy night, but the big space holds us all well. We start with a Hong Kong beer in the large separate bar, which looks rather flash. No doubt it swallowed up a big piece of that 1.5m, but it lacks the charm of the main space and feels a little "footballer's wives". A huge flatscreen showing a Lionel Ritchie concert (recent, shockingly) compounds the problem. The staff are lovely though, and when our food's ready we move into the fabulous main hall.
We start with steamed prawn dim sum and Malaysian chicken satay. Both are presented simply, without needless ornamentation, but still look splendid. They taste great too: the bite-size dim sum are delicate but satisfying, and the satay is fragrant with quite a kick of spice.
On the subject of dim sum, it's worth noting one particularly interesting aspect of the menu. Wise to the Harrogate appetite for high tea (and indeed, its reputation as a good place to take it) the Ngs have put together a special afternoon menu, with a list of dainty dim sum to choose from as an accompaniment to a pot of tea. It might not hit the spot like a scone with jam and cream, but good dim sum's hard to find in Yorkshire, so this is something of a treat.
After this, some decent crispy duck pancakes. They're good but the duck's a bit dry, as if it's been waiting to go out for a little too long.
For the main event, we've picked sauted scallops with Chinese broccoli, and fillet steak Mandarin Style. The scallops are perfect, with just enough bite, and combine really well with the greens, making for a subtle dish with a fine salty tang.
The steak is well judged and coated with a nicely tangy fruit sauce. The most pleasant surprise is the dish of stir-fried Szechuan French beans, which are fresh and crisp and really enlivened by the rich, chilli-fuelled sauce.
The Chinese ros we ordered from the extensive wine list (out of sheer curiosity, mind) proves to be surprisingly decent, when enjoyed alongside all this fine food, although it might seem over dry on its own.
As is typical for a Chinese dinner in the UK, dessert is an uneasy experience. Mochi (little rice flour dumplings filled with sweet bean paste) are peculiar gelatinous blobs, and green tea flavoured ice cream is pleasant but a bit naff.
Occasional niggles aside, the overall impression is of a kitchen that cares, and that takes care.
At just over 100 it's certainly not cheap, but it's an enormous feast and dining in such a grand room, it's hard not to feel a little spoilt.
Oh yes, and if you haven't already done so, please do open your eyes again.
Central Hall, Crescent Road, Harrogate, HG1 2WJ, 01423 523 6888.
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Sunday 12 February 2012
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