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Cheap and cheerful
You only get what you pay for with wine. Christine Austin checks out the latest Sainsbury's range for value
While the average price paid for a bottle of wine in the UK remains at an astonishing 3.84, it is hardly surprising that the supermarkets are targeting this area. But in wine, as in most things in life, you only get what you pay for.
Allowing for the cost of bottles, corks, shipping and profits along the way, the liquid in the bottle of a 3.84 bottle of wine is worth pence, not pounds.
That's why the sight of a range of wines, all aimed at the 3 to 4 price points at Sainsbury's recent tasting made my tastebuds tremble.
All you can hope for in this price range is decent, well-made wines with some character of grape and perhaps a touch of regionality. After slurping and spitting down the line, I was surprised at what the buyers had managed to find for their money.
First off the block to score some positive marks was Sainsbury's Soave, a clean, citrus-backed wine with a hint of almonds and white blossom among the fruit. At just 3.05 this is a terrific wine to keep in the fridge for Monday to Thursday suppers after work.
Also good is Margaret Island Dry White 2005 wine from Hungary (2.99) which has a light, zesty, aromatic style with the taste of pure fruity grapes. It is described as dry but there's such fruitiness in the wine it will appeal to a wide range of palates. Drink this on its own or with fish dishes and finish your stock before the real cold weather comes along.
Among good value reds, I was struck by the cherry-fruit of Sainsbury's Bardolino 2005 (3.99) which is light in style but has a streak of truffles and earthy tones in the middle. Italy scores again with Sainsbury's Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2005 (3.99) for denser, rounder black stone-fruit flavours and a finish that wouldn't disgrace a much more expensive wine.
From Australia, Sainsbury's Shiraz 2005 (3.59) packs a considerable punch with powerful, chunky, blackberry fruit flavours while Australian Cabernet Shiraz (3.99) has spicy peppery fruit and soft tannins.
But nobody is going to be shocked out of their seats by a sub-4 wine. Friday to Sunday demands a different style of drinking and the Sainsbury tasting showed that there was plenty on offer.
Between 4 and 6 I enjoyed the crisp, clean lines of Reserve St Marc 2005 (4.49), a Sauvignon Vin de Pays d'Oc that breezes across the palate, sharpening the appetite and reviving spirits after a long day at work.
I was also struck by the dry, aromatic notes of
La Difference Viognier Muscat 2005 (4.99); a Vin de
Pays from the C'tes Catalans which combines the straightforward fruitiness of Muscat with some
depth and a hint of apricots from the Viognier. I
would be happy to team this wine with a light
Thai-spiced supper.
For crisp, crunchy herbaceous flavours look no further than Marqus de Riscal Rueda 2005 (5.99). Made from the Verdejo grape variety, this manages to capture some of the green-edged flavours of Sauvignon with a softer, rounder finish that makes it perfect to put alongside grilled sea-bass or scallops.
It may seem too late in the year to start buying pink, but I am convinced that Ros wine no longer has a drinking season and can be happily enjoyed all year long. Just pouring a lively pink wine will brighten any weekend party and the 2006 Mysterio Malbec Shiraz Ros 2006 (4.99) from Finca Flichman in Argentina has all the raspberry fruit of a new-vintage wine with a clean, clear zesty style.
For a slightly more food-friendly ros try Ch Bonnet Bordeaux Ros 2005 (5.99) which I am delighted to see on the shelves.
This is a gentle, strawberry fruity wine with all the elegance you might expect from one of Bordeaux's key winemakers, Andr Lurton.
Several steps deeper in colour than ros, but still worth chilling for an hour or so is Chinon Domaine du Colombier 2004 (5.49). Red Loire wines are famous for their raspberry fruit and green leafiness from Cabernet Franc grapes. This is a terrific example and I would be happy to drink it with cold roast beef, a selection of charcuterie or even grilled salmon.
For bigger, more powerful flavours head to Spain where there are several great wines nestling under good price points.
Sainsbury's Reciente Rioja (4.49) comes from the respected Bodegas Olarra and it offers the new-style fresher cherry fruit flavours of this region. For just 50p more Gran Familia Rioja 2003 from Bodegas Castillo offers at least 1 more weight, concentration and style.
The flat plains of La Mancha are being revitalised by essential irrigation and new enthusiasm and at 4.99 Castillo La Paz Tempranillo shows just how good this region can become. Made from old vines which give small amounts of concentrated grapes, this is a lush, berry-fruited wine that offers considerable style and body for money.
From France, Ch Dubois Gramont Bordeaux
2005 (4.99) shows that the value-end of Bordeaux is also being revived. This region, which grows more Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot than anywhere
else in the world, has been slowly spiralling
down in the face of increased competition from
the New World.
Now vignerons have to fight to survive and this wine shows that the sub-5 mark can still provide good, stylish flavours. This easy drinking Bordeaux red has fresh-tasting, lively cassis fruit which will go well with a Saturday night steak or lamb chop.
Argentina is also fighting back after a series of economic disasters which diverted attention elsewhere. Now with their peso devalued against the pound, Argentina offers great value-for-money wines with bags of South American sunshine.
First to bring a smile to my lips was Otra Vida Shiraz 2005 (4.99), a wine with a label as lively as the flavours inside the bottle. Velvety smooth on the palate it is densely packed with spicy blackberry fruit.
At the same price Mysterio Malbec 2005 shows the grape that Argentina does so well with concentrated dried fig and plum flavours rounded off with a burst of juicy red berry fruits.
On the Grapevine
Best buys
Tesco continues with its Autumn Wine Fair by slicing substantial amounts off its prices. Casillero del Diablo wines are down from 5.99 to 3.99 and even at their full price offer straightforward easy drinking wines at great-value prices. On offer, these are wines you should stock up with.
The Sauvignon Blanc is bright and lively with a hint of tropical flavours among the citrussy fruit while the Cabernet Sauvignon is rounded and full of warm-berry flavours.
Also from Chile, Montes Reserve Sauvignon Blanc is down from 5.99 to 4.49. This is a serious wine and takes some of its grapes from the expensive Leyda Valley as well as Casablanca.
It is great value and tasting well at present. From Australia, look out for Peter Lehmann's spicy Grenache 2004 down from 4.99 to a bargain 3.74 while at the same price, Tesco Finest C'tes du Rh'ne Villages has masses of spicy blackberry fruit with soft tannins.
Tesco Wine Fair will run until October 10, although there is a tendency for some of the best offers to run out of stock before then.
Booths Wine Fair
Readers within striking distance of Ilkley had better plan a day off work for October 5 when five Booths stores, including the Ilkley store, plan to open a magnum of Ch d'Yquem as part of their Wine Fair which starts today and runs until October 15.
Details of exactly when the bottle will be opened are not available at present, but I would plan to stay in store all day for a taste of this gorgeous liquid.
There will also be tastings in 18 of their stores, including Settle and Ilkley at weekends with 20 per cent offered off a range of wines.
Today, Chile is under the spotlight with Burgundy following on tomorrow. Next Saturday Champagne corks will be popping, with Bordeaux to follow on Sunday October 8.
Booths recently won regional Supermarket of the Year Award for their excellent range so any opportunity to taste is welcome.
Wine from Portugal
The Jane Tomlinson Appeal is the beneficiary of ticket sales to the Wines of Portugal tasting which will be held in Leeds on Monday October 2 at The Park Plaza Hotel in City Square. The tasting is from 5.30pm until 7.30pm and tickets cost 7.50 from the Leeds Tourist Information Centre at Leeds Station. Ring 0113 246 8122 or contact maureen.pearce@leeds.gov.uk.
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Saturday 11 February 2012
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