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The view from the Bridge
The ale trail: On the trail of Yorkshire's great country pubs, where walkers are welcome, Mark Reid reports on the Bridge Inn at Grinton in Swaledale.
I was coming to the end of a four-hour walk across Grinton Moor, where the decaying remains of a once-flourishing lead mining industry lie abandoned across the rolling moorland. There are old workings and spoil heaps all around, now forlorn and silent.
Suitably tired and with fading light, I reached the village of Grinton beside the River Swale, where little windows of yellow light shone out from cold grey-stone cottages. What we needed now was rest and sustenance. I say we, as I was accompanied by Elvis, my German Shorthaired Pointer; hill-walker extraordinaire and pub fire aficionado.
Do they, don't they? The question went through my mind as I approached the door of the Bridge Inn. "We're in luck, Elvis – muddy boots and dogs welcome." After four hours traipsing through knee-high heather, the
last thing I wanted to do was take off my walking boots and leave Elvis outside guarding them.
As I walked into the bar, I was struck by how busy it was, for 6.30pm on a Monday evening. Several people were at the bar chatting away; a gamekeeper with his Labrador, a farmer and a couple of locals. I glanced round the bar. There were three or four tables of people waiting for food, a log fire glowed in the grate and there were a couple of other dogs masquerading as rugs lying flat out asleep on the carpet. I felt at home. Standing at right-angles to the bar I could not see the pump clips, so asked what beers they had. A local quickly interjected, "The Cereal Killer's pretty good. It's an organic wheat beer, brewed in North Yorkshire." Well, how could I resist? But at 4.5 per cent ABV I settled on half a pint (1.40). The beer was well-kept and crystal clear with a sharp hop nose, but a little too bittersweet for my liking.
Now, I am of the firm opinion that you can judge the quality of food at a pub by its soup. Every pub sells soup, but not every pub serves really great soup. It's a walker's staple. Quick, warming, filling and reasonably priced – ideal food for the hills. Order placed, I found a quiet table near the fire for Elvis to warm himself and sat down, fascinated by the old photos on the walls. I was soon tucking into a bowl of homemade leek and celeriac soup (3.50) and warm mini-baguette. The soup was piping hot and delicious, although the bowl could have been slightly bigger as I was left wanting more.
I had a wander around before I left. A door led through to a large dining room, with comfy leather sofas set around a coal fire, perfect for aperitifs, while on the other side of the bar, steps led down to a traditional games room. This pub is geared for walkers and wholeheartedly welcomes them. And there are a lot of them about, for Swaledale is a walkers' paradise.
Six of the best
Berghaus Freeflow IV 20
45 www.berghaus.com
The latest version of the Berghaus Freeflow system sees improvements to the mesh back framework that keeps the back of the sack away from the user's back to create an airflow effect.
The pack itself is a small one with space for all you'd need on a day walk plus space for a hydration pack, a map pocket on the front panel and a waterproof cover tucked away in the base of the sack.
Berghaus Vercors
30 www.berghaus.com
This classically styled 25 litre pack has been around for a few years now and is still winning new friends. It has a single compartment plus side pockets to take cameras, maps, snacks and water bottles and there's also a top pocket for wallets, compasses, first aid kits and keys. The pack itself isn't flagged as being waterproof
so I'd pack everything inside it in poly bags to help keep things dry on wet days.
Deuter AC Lite 20
46 www.deuter.de
It's had a few cosmetic changes in recent years, but the AC Lite is a long-running line in the Deuter rucksack range. My partner Caroline has been using hers for six years now and it's still going strong, even though it's used daily for her cycle commute and has also been pressed into service on day walks, as a lightweight weekend pack and as carry on luggage too for walking and less strenuous trips abroad.
Karrimor Skye 25
30 www.karrimor.com
The Skye 25 is another classically styled pack with two side pockets and plenty of space to take all you'd need on a day walk or a lightweight weekend away. The pack has a top pocket, walking pole holders, front map pocket, waterproof pack cover and both a hip belt and chest strap too.
Colours range from a very subtle black and grey colour to a quite bright pink version.
Fact file
Mark Reid is author of The Inn Way guidebooks www.innway.co.uk
Contact: Bridge Inn, Grinton, Richmond, North Yorkshire. Tel: 01748 884224.
Opening hours: Open all day for food and drink.
Food: All homemade using locally-sourced produce, including Rack of Swaledale Lamb (15.95), Belly Pork served on a stew of Lentils (8.95), Steak and Ale Pie (7.95) and Grinton Moor Grouse (16.95), as well as homemade desserts (4.50).
Real Ales: Four hand-pulled ales, Jenning's Cumberland Ale (ABV 4 per cent) and Dark Mild (ABV
3.1 per cent) plus two
guest beers which, at the time of my visit, were Duchy Organic Ale (ABV 4.4 per cent) and North Yorkshire Brewery's Cereal Killer Organic wheat bitter (ABV 4.5 per cent).
Accommodation: Five rooms, 72 mid-week and 76 weekends per room
per night.
Walkers Welcome? Muddy boots and dogs most welcome. Classic routes radiate in all directions, including Fremington Edge, Arkengarthdale, Marrick Abbey and Harkerside Moor. A number of long-distance routes pass this way including the Coast to Coast, Herriot Way and The Inn Way... to the Yorkshire Dales.
Lowe Alpine Attack
50 www.lowealpine.com
My Alpine Attack is starting to look like it has character now, but it has been in almost daily use for nearly two years for walking, travel, lightweight weekends away and as an anonymous way of carting my laptop around. It's a small pack, but pulling on the second long zip that surrounds the sack can expand the capacity and it also has a small top pocket for change, keys or an iPod plus a space for a hydration pack too.
The North Face Megamouth
65 www.thenorthface.com/eu
This multi-pocketed pack is aimed at the growing fast and light market where speed and minimal kit is of the essence. The Megamouth comes complete with a hydration bag and drinking tube to prevent the user getting thirsty while on the move. The pockets themselves can easily take waterproofs, snacks and emergency equipment for those on foot plus a small tool kit, puncture repair kit and compact tyre pump for those using two wheels.
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Friday 25 May 2012
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