Embryonic success of Japanese beef in East Yorkshire

Wagyu beef is revered in other countries for its intense marbling as it is this that produces the best possible taste.

Strictly speaking the name Wagyu is applied to all Japanese beef cattle. The ‘Wa’ means Japanese and ‘Gyu’ means cow and there are many strains including Kobe, regarded as the pinnacle of the Wagyu that has been called the food of emperors.

Jono Cooper is Yorkshire Wagyu Company’s in-house vet and tells of how the Wagyu breed migrated to Australia before arriving in the UK. It is also has a growing national herd in the United States.

“Australia is currently the biggest market for Wagyu outside of Japan and they are 10-15 years ahead of the UK in terms of genetics, national herd size and marketing.

“Much of the best genetics now come from Australia and when we look for potential new genetic lines, it’s Australia where we purchase.

“The Japanese stopped any further exports of Wagyu genetics in the early 90s when they declared the breed a national treasure and that led to a nucleus of full blood Wagyu cattle being maintained and expanded in Australia.

“Almost everything that is full blood in the UK herd, that currently runs to around 3,000 registered Wagyu, will have come into this country as an embryo. That means a Wagyu full blood bull and cow will mate in Australia and embryos are then flushed out of the cow, frozen and sent over to the UK.

“Once the embryo arrives it is put into a surrogate recipient, that will carry and subsequently mother the full blood calf. We presently use Aberdeen Angus X Holstein Friesian cows as they are easy calving and good mothers producing plenty of milk. Our aim is to grow our own nucleus herd, which currently runs to around 20.”

Balancing a marketing plan of achieving sales targets with producing what is demanded to meet beef orders is a conundrum that means the majority of Wagyu beef served up from the Yorkshire Wagyu Company is a crossbreed of Wagyu X Holstein Friesian.

“We use our nucleus herd to breed the best full blood bulls we can and with our full blood herd small in number but rising we cannot afford to send them for beef as their breed potential is worth far more to us.

“It is their genetics that determine the marbling. That’s why in order to get numbers up quickly to meet increasing demand from restaurants, farm shops and high-end hotels we have found that the dairy cow route works best.

“In Australia they operate a marbling score system of one to 12 and 10-12 can only be brought about by a full blood Wagyu. It’s possible to reach a score of nine when crossing with dairy cattle and the feedback we’ve had about our beef has been amazing.

“We have been able to set up arrangements with a number of dairy farmers. There are benefits on both sides. They don’t have to be concerned about the calf that is born because it will calve easily and we guarantee to buy it back from them at a reasonable price at two to three-weeks-old and their cows are then in milk too. We improve our numbers for the beef market and the cows keep milking.

“We believe that slow growing, low stress Wagyu are key factors in ensuring the taste although we don’t follow the same ideas in various myths around Kobe beef in Japan that they are given beer to drink and massaged daily. This has an element of truth but not here. Our cattle lead a stress-free life and are finished around 27 months and up to 620-630 kilos.”

The proof of any food produce is in the eating and the response to the Yorkshire Wagyu Company’s beef has seen their order book grow massively since their first sales just under a year ago.

Jono believes the market potential is great.

“As a company we are focussed on the end product which for us is the quality on your plate. As animal looks go they’re not up there in the pretty league, so you won’t see a rush to incorporate Wagyu cattle classes at agricultural shows but that’s irrelevant. Wagyu beef marbling is what it’s all about.”

The Yorkshire Wagyu Company currently has a herd of around 900 cattle through its subsidiary, Wold Beef Solutions.