But behind this backdrop which claims many natural wonders lies a nation struggling for its survival.

The government of Yemen has demonstrated an increased commitment to reduce poverty and make reforms; however, the challenges remain enormous and the risk from terrorism is increasing.

Last month, 16 people were killed by a car bomb at the US embassy and people are being warned not to visit the country unless it is essential. Although a democracy, the political situation in Yemen is troubled, with many regional factions vying for power.

Yemen is the only low- income country in the Middle East, with 35 per cent of the population living on less than $2 a day.

The recent global food price rises have hit Yemen hard, pushing even more people below the $2 line.

On the United Nations Development Programme Human Development Index Yemen is ranked 153 out of 177 countries. Female literacy is only 34 per cent and 46 per cent of Yemen's under-fives are undernourished.

The country faces a series of daunting challenges which threaten its future prosperity and stability. These include high unemployment; rapid population growth, an intense water shortage, declining oil revenues, volatile local level conflict, and regional instability.

In recognition of the severe poverty and stability challenges Yemen faces the British Government, through the Department for International Development, has decided to scale up its support to Yemen rising 400 per cent from £10m in 2006-7 to £50m by 2010-11.

The UK has also signed a 10-year Development Partnership Arrangement with the government of Yemen in August 2007.

That all sounds very good on paper, but how do you make sure that the money gets to the people who really need it and that grand sounding plans to improve education and health really work?

Enter Gemma Standeven.

Gemma spent last year living in the country, tasked not only with expanding DFIDs office there but also helping to get children into school and reduce the maternal mortality rate, which stands at 361 per 100,000 births.

When I met Gemma she was having a coffee in her pretty cottage in Felixkirk, near Thirsk, black spaniel Sana – named after the capital of Yemen – completing the picture of North Yorkshire charm. Still beaming from her recent marriage to boyfriend Matt, it is all a long way from the parched landscape and poverty of Yemen.

"It is the most amazing place," says Gemma. "The people are so friendly, despite all the difficulties. Women are treated very differently over there, but they all treated me with respect and accepted me as if I was a man."

Gemma is no stranger to travel. She spent much of her formative years in Dubai, which installed in her a love of and fascination with the Middle East and a desire to work overseas.

A brief flirtation with graphic design did little more than convince her that her future lay in aid work in developing countries.

"I had always thought of development and working overseas as a hobby rather than a career, but I soon realised that you can have both. It is pretty amazing to be able to do your hobby as a career. I did some work for charities, but I soon realised I wanted to be involved in the development side of things. To see 10 years down the line the work you are doing is really making a difference to a country, rather than emergency relief."

Although Gemma has had her fair share of crises.

Shortly after joining DFID she was sent to Sir Lanka to help with the aftermath of the tsunami.

"I flew out 36 hours after it happened," says Gemma. "It was pretty full-on. You can't really prepare yourself for what you might find."

Although the horrors of a tragedy like that are hard to cope with, Gemma says it
is just as bad seeing the day-to-day suffering in a place like Yemen.

"You know that something like the aftermath of the tsunami was caused by one horrific event. In somewhere like the Yemen, especially in the rural areas, it is life."

The first six months was the hardest for Gemma – a woman, on her own in a foreign Muslim country where she knew no-one and didn't speak the language.

So the first thing she did was learn Arabic.

"It is such a beautiful language," says Gemma. "No one speaks English so it is just the best place to learn Arabic." Although some Western women living and working in Yemen choose to wear the headdress, or hijab, Gemma chose not to. But she did respect the tradition of covering up – especially her wrists and ankles.

"I always wore long tops and trousers and nothing figure-hugging. I have to admit that it was quite nice to be home and wear something fashionable for a change."

Although she tried to blend in, Gemma said her decision to drive a traditional Yemeni vehicle made her stand out.

"Very few women drive and most Western women will drive a foreign car. I chose to buy a traditional Yemeni vehicle, which seemed to cause a lot of amusement."

Gemma says her drive from her apartment to the English embassy was an experience.

"Driving in Yemen is mad. They honk their horns all the time and it is very frantic and aggressive."

Outside of the capital, Yemen is very rural and relies heavily on agriculture. During her year Gemma worked all over the country and saw some very tragic sights.

"Women and girls do the majority of the manual labour.

"You always see young girls, who you know should be in school, carrying water. We realise that we have to start at the bottom. It will not change overnight but we are prepared to wait."

She says she saw first-hand the effect that the global increase in food prices was having. Although an agricultural area, Yemen relies heavily on imported food. The price of wheat has gone up 350 per cent and that is not helping the poorest of families to survive.

During the year Gemma's boyfriend did his PhD on Yemen agriculture and it was during this time that he proposed.

They considered having a Yemeni ceremony, but waited until she returned to the UK and they were married in June this year.

The couple moved to North Yorkshire shortly after Gemma's return from Yemen, as Matt now works for Strutt and Parker as a land agent in Northallerton. Gemma commutes to DFID's offices in London every week and is determined to stay on the Yemen desk.

"It is a place I am drawn to. I suppose being a child in Dubai means, culturally I don't find it really foreign. They are wonderful people. If you make a friend of an Arab they are a friend for life. Yemen has many challenges but UK aid money is making a difference so I am proud to be here helping Yemenis have a chance at a better life.

"The deep insight into another culture that one would only experience when living in a country and building up trust with friends and colleagues is what has been an invaluable experience and something that I will always treasure."