They built up what was one of the most popular dining pubs in West Yorkshire and their leaving caused great upset with the regulars.

For the new owners, Paul and Helen Andrews Garth, it was going to be
tough filling those distinguished chefs' whites and satisfying the
die-hard diners.

They must be doing something right though, because at 7pm on a Saturday night it was heaving. It took a good few minutes to get to the bar to confirm the booking.

A a stream of disappointed diners who had not made one were leaving. There is little change to the décor since my last visit, it is as faded and twee as I remembered. But it looks okay, comforting without airs and graces, much like my granny's living room made me feel.

The table-for-two plonked next to the ladies and gents loos was not very satisfactory.

It meant either facing the toilet doors or behind the bar. Either way, a constant stream of traffic filtered past. The sideboard beside the bar had a better position. Facing the bar, I watched the flock of young waitresses darting about, only pausing occasionally to check their appearance in the mirror.

They were never still and never without a smile. They were, however, without a wine list, a mention of the specials board, or the wine which we eventually managed to order. But bless them, they did work hard.

The meal galloped off to a good start with a basket of fresh bread and not a wince of disapproval for a request for a jug of iced water. A pair of lightly cooked, meaty scallops was all squeaky, fresh and dressed with a smooth cauliflower cream. I'd suggest discarding the chunk of baguette padding underneath which jarred with the delicacy of the dish. The crab and crayfish risotto was inspirational. The rice had a chalky bite, the chunks of crayfish tender and sweet and the
texture of the crab brought the whole together.

When the errant Chablis finally arrived, it was in a glass pitcher. I can only imagine what the winemaker would have said about his product being served like an everyday vin de pays – sacre bleu!

A hefty fillet steak, soft, fondant potato and silky celeriac cream looked most appealing.

The red wine jus was a little lacking in its main ingredient – red wine – but all-round an acceptable steak cooked precisely as requested. At £22, it's not cheap and had more vegetables been required, an extra £2.50 would have nudged the price towards expensive.

A Mature Cheddar Cheese Soufflé looked like a challenge for the kitchen. If they could pull this off in a busy restaurant on a Saturday night, they deserved a medal for bravery. Sadly, no medals tonight.

After chewing furiously, I abandoned it to the side of the plate. For the next 20 minutes it sat glaring at me and never changed shape. Alongside the soufflé was what the menu described as roast vegetables. These were in the shape of a half-cooked pepper, filled with lukewarm tomatoes, rubbery discs of Mozzarella and something that once had been green.

Sticky Toffee Pudding arrived. As the expert, my partner is the better judge and he pondered over each mouthful finally deciding it was too sweet. In all the time I have known him he has never said something was too sweet, including me.

Overall, dinner see-sawed from brilliance to despair. But it's still early days for the "new" Kaye Arms and there is promise. A few tweaks are needed but please don't change the staff or the buzzing atmosphere. Perhaps just give the soufflé a well-deserved rest, and impose a sugar ration on pudddings?

Dinner for two with wine came in at £65, the steak causing the hike in
cost for what is a very reasonably priced menu.

The Kaye Arms, Wakefield Road, Grange Moor, Wakefield, WF4 4BG. Tel: 01924 848385. Open Mon-Fri, lunch noon-2.30pm, dinner 7- 9-pm. Sat and Sun noon- 9pm.