Living up to its name
Published Date:
26 September 2008
By Yvette Huddleston at The Good Food Shop Café and Bistro, Addingham.
On a corner of Main Street in the attractive village of Addingham between Ilkley and Skipton, this intimate little café seems to be a hit with the locals, judging by how full it was on a wet Tuesday lunchtime.
The name derives from the fact that part of the business is a delicatessen (The Good Food Shop), housed in separate premises lower down the street and which offers an impressive variety of local, seasonal, organic, home-made and fairtrade produce. From outside, the café almost appears to be part of a tower: on closer inspection, the doorway actually leads into the rounded end of a terrace. Inside, the decor is simple, warm and welcoming. Posters on the wall hint at the European influence confirmed by the variety of the dishes on the menu, with French cuisine at the top of the list. Comfortable, solid leather-backed chairs and sturdy yet classy wooden tables give it an air of sophistication and comfort that raises this above the average high street café experience. The friendly waitress has a smile even though she was alone at front of house. Maybe it was busier than normal, but she would have benefited from some assistance. Noise of drilling upstairs, which was a slight distraction and for which she was very apologetic, was to create further space on the upper floor – evidence of the café's growing popularity.
The lunchtime offer of £12.95 for two courses and £15.95 for three courses is good value for money. All ingredients are locally, ethically, seasonally and organically sourced wherever possible. Wine is sold by the glass only and is a not unreasonable £3.95 for a very palatable Chenin Blanc and with a limited choice of other grape varieties available.
A starter appropriate for a bistro with clearly Gallic aspirations, French onion soup, was very satisfying, if tasting just a little too strongly of stock, and served as a sensibly-sized portion. It was accompanied by an island of sliced baguette topped with cheese.
Another starter of baked camembert in breadcrumbs was delicious, though not very excitingly presented with just one small salad leaf as a garnish and only a faint drizzle of what looked and tasted like a cranberry jus to add a hint of extra colour. A main course of baked goat's cheese salad came with with marinated Mediterranean vegetables – mostly artichoke and aubergine, some red peppers, black and green olives, and green herby leaves. This turned out to be slightly disappointing because, despite its attractive presentation and colour combinations, it was rather too bland. The salad was, to some extent, swamped by the artichokes and aubergines: the dish would have had more impact and appeal with the addition of some cherry tomatoes, perhaps, or even just a little more dressing. The goat's cheese, however, was baked to just the right consistency and had a good creamy texture and a robust, not too salty, taste. Normandy chicken, comprised an organic breast of chicken in a creamy mustard sauce with red and green grapes – delicious, if a little rich. This was served with a generous separate portion of new potatoes – but no other vegetables – and without a little greenery, it did look somewhat anaemic on the plate. This is a quibble about presentation, however, as the flavours were mouth-watering. Side dishes are available, but at extra cost.
The desserts are all homemade and included a sticky toffee pudding, tarte au citron, crème brûlée, chocolate fudge cake or deep-filled apple pie. There was also the option of a taster of three different desserts, ideal for sharing or for those who really can't make up their mind which of the delicious-sounding sweets to choose.
The evening menu is more extensive (and slightly more expensive), offering starter dishes such as salad niçoise, gazpacho with salsa and pitta bread, ham hock served with garden herbs and sweet onion marmalade; main courses of pan-seared tuna loin, boeuf bourgignon, minted lamb fillet, corn-fed chicken and various vegetarian risottos; and dessert or cheese dishes similar to the day-time menu.
The place is child-friendly – clearly appreciated by the many mums who had brought along their well-behaved offspring. In addition, the café provides a sensible children's menu offering healthy drinks such as fruit juices or milk, and dishes at roughly half the price of adult fare which include mini burgers, sausage and mash, scampi, Lasagne Milanese, or half a sandwich or jacket potato from the main café menu.
This is an ambitious enterprise, catering for a wide range of daytime and evening customers. With free wi-fi available, they are clearly keen to serve as an internet café for those with half an hour to spare for a coffee as well as for the discerning diner with a penchant for Provence or a desire for a taste of the Dordogne. The bistro's head chef is Matt Brown, formerly of the Fleece, a popular and successful gastropub in Addingham, and likely to be the GFC's main rival for those who enjoy good food.
The Good Food Shop Café Bistro, 113-115 Main Street, Addingham, West Yorkshire, LS29 OPD. Tel 01943 839 393. The Café is open 9am-4pm Tuesday to Friday, 10am-4pm Saturday and 12noon-4pm on Sunday. The Bistro is open Wednesday to Saturday evenings from 6pm. www.gfsbistro.co.uk
The full article contains 918 words and appears in n/a newspaper.
-
Last Updated:
29 September 2008 10:07 AM
-
Source:
n/a
-
Location:
Yorkshire