Just consider the present extent of their business empire – an eight-bed hotel, catered cottages, a deli and a butcher's shop. Add to this the fact that they are also raising a young family and that Andrew has made his writing debut with a book which recently won the Gourmand World Cookbook Silver Award for "Best Chef Book in the World 2009". You have to wonder where they get their energy from.

Clearly they haven't exhausted their supply just yet. The most recent addition to the ever-growing Star family comes in the handsome shape of The Pheasant country house hotel and restaurant which is a stone's throw from the front door of the Star Inn.

Hands up anyone who sneakily hasn't wondered if this could possibly be a step too far even for the indefatigable Perns? It did cross my mind despite my long admiration for the pair. Could Harome, Helmsley, or even North Yorkshire sustain yet another renowned eatery and hotel? And with the Star as such a near neighbour, how could they differentiate the appeal of the two?

Andrew and Jacquie can't claim credit for the picture-perfect location of the hotel overlooking the duck pond in Harome but they can for the way their confident, capable hands have created the supremely tasteful country-house décor. In the bar, conservatory and the restaurant, think Ralph Lauren plaids, Farrow and Ball colours, sofas a-plenty and stuffed foxes. I am told the hotel bedrooms are equally stylish. On offer there's also a heated swimming pool, in-house holistic beauty treatments and my favourite bit – a tantalising menu. It's cooked by Peter Neville.

Choose from the Market Menu, £30 per person for three courses of seasonal, market-led fare, coffee and tea. There's mussels with spring onions or ham Rillettes, a roast chicken breast with fresh peas or sea bream with seasonal broad beans, samphire and potted shrimps; glorious summer cherry frangipane or a vanilla panna cotta with summer berries.

The part of the menu, however, that I really like is divided by main ingredient – Artichokes, Scallops, Terrine, Salmon, Duck. Pollack … you get the picture. Most come in a starter or main course size priced at £8 - £26, or £55 for seven courses.

This extends the 11 choices into 18 which for anyone with a smallish appetite or who simply want to try a bit of everything is a very good idea. I chose two ingredients which I adore – Artichokes (roasted violet artichokes with an English truffle mayonnaise and nasturtium) and Lobster (served as a mousseline gratin with a touch of air dried ham, Granny Smith apple and Buckler sorrel). Just the reading of this menu is a delight.

So was the food. It was a journey through seasonality, heritage, and local provenance. Even though Andrew is not at the stove, he has ensured his cooking ethos is present. Each component of the dishes held their own; the artichoke had bite, the mayonnaise brought a soft undertone and the nasturtium a touch of spice. Fluffy sauce bound together meaty chunks of lobster and the unusual, yet delicious, combination of sharp apple and bitter sorrel.

Scallops came with a bright green dill purée and tiny dill flowers creating a fresh clean and simply exquisite dish both to look and to eat. If there was any down note in the meal it was a hefty chunk of halibut. Poaching it in Viognier rendered it mushy rather than meaty. The perfectly cooked sea shore vegetables (samphire) and a duxelles of Penny Bun mushrooms which were served alongside, more than made up for any slight flaw.

Puddings follow the choose-an-ingredient theme of Almond, Pimms, Chocolate, Cherry, Plum or Cheese (£7-£8). Almond was a soft, warm almond cake, sweet roasted apricots and meadowsweet ice cream. I found the flavour more almond-like.

The wine list is capable and reasonably priced for the standard on offer. Service is quietly competent and with the surprise dishes offered between the courses makes the £100 bill for two with a bottle of Bourgogne Rosé reasonable for hospitality of this standard.

The Pheasant is pleasantly different to the Star. It is more relaxed and does not have the implicit expectation of grandeur and ceremony that comes with a Michelin-starred restaurant. It does, however, have the same standard and attention to detail which brought fame and success to its sibling. Anyone who thinks the Perns have the Midas touch and that everything they do turns to gold are denying what's really happening here. The couple's success comes from hard work, dedication, a keen eye for detail and taking care of the customer; something many other restaurants could learn from.

n The Pheasant Hotel, Mill St, Harome, York, YO62 5JG. Tel: 01439 771241. The Dining Room and Conservatory are open to both residents and non-residents – lunch between noon and 2pm and dinner between 7pm and 9pm.