Rind, Austwick: We tried out the new pizza restaurant set up by a cheese expert in Yorkshire

Set up by Andy and Kathy Swinscoe back in 2012, they champion, sell, store, and mature on-site a vast range of handmade farmhouse cheeses. Most, if not all, are made by true artisans using unpasteurised and raw milk cheese from single herds.

Stepping into the shop at the dairy, the range of cheeses on display is impressive, if not slightly overwhelming; thankfully, there is a supremely knowledgeable team to help with choices and tasting samples.

Lately, things have changed over at the Courtyard. The cheese shop is substantially larger and even more handsome than the last time I was there and stocked with cheeses, charcuterie, and a range of cheese-related goodies. Also, I could not ignore the impressive new building now nestled in next door or be forgiven for thinking it was a rather posh timber-clad agricultural shed; it is not. The architect-designed building houses a new complementary cheese museum, a cutting room, and a cheesemaking room for courses - which I have done with Andy and highly recommend. Plus, there's a processing and packing room for their thriving online cheese business. The rest is home to Rind, a new pizza-led cheese restaurant.

Rind is cheese expert Mathew Carver's first restaurant outside London. Carver already has four restaurants in the capital, including the world's first cheese conveyor; if that sounds a little 'cheesy', it is not, and neither is Rind. The space housing the restaurant is gloriously bright and spacious. The beautiful views from the floor-to-ceiling windows may cause squabbling about who gets to sit facing out over Ingleborough and the glorious dales I think.

It is mid-afternoon when we arrive to a practically full house with everyone busy tucking into some exceptional-looking food which I notice as we are led to our table. I was so busy looking at the food that I missed my chance to grab the view – next time, I'll be quicker. However, my view across the fields to my right isn't too shabby, though the window frame cuts it right at my eye-line, forcing me to sit up tall to see out. Inside, I had a lovely view of the fabulous pizza oven at the heart of the room with chefs, heads down and busy, and a chance to see a restaurant's general comings and goings in full flow.

Most of the menu here is cheese-led, but there are meats as well, with the likes of bresaola, chorizo, guanciale, Ndjua, and fennel and red wine sausage spotted throughout. As we did, the best way to make the most of this feast is to order the British Charcuterie plate to start. The plate comes with Acahri salami, chorizo and bresaola served with cornichons and sourdough. It's not the most enormous plate, but what is on there is good and keeps any carnivorous thoughts at bay.

I had spotted the other starter (of only two), which had me dithering. Mains are all pizza, so if I order the La Latteria Burrata with roasted squash, pumpkin seeds, basil oil and pomegranate dressing with sourdough, what space would I have left for a main? Well, I risked it, and boy, am I glad I did as this was one of those insanely good dishes that will stay with me, that I will try endlessly to recreate at home or even make the unbelievable 150-mile round trip -Yorkshire is that big – for it again.

The Buratta made of shredded mozzarella fior di latte is mixed with Panna - a special Italian cream - to create a silky ball, which, when cut, the creamy centre oozes onto the plate, ready to be scooped up with fat chunks of bread soaked in the delicious dressing. The pumpkin seeds and tender roasted squash add a hint of texture to hold it all together. I would have gone home happy even if I had stopped right there. There was, thankfully, room for pizza.

You can leave any thoughts of quatro-stagione, Diavola, pepperoni and the like at home. Instead, get ready for another assault on any expectations your tastebuds may have. I spotted my pizza immediately. Blue Cheese was its title, and it promised to deliver Devon Blue Cream and Cote Hill Blue cheese with roasted pear and walnuts. That combination is my favourite salad and about to come on a dinner-plate-sized, blistering pizza base; I could not decide if this would be heaven or hell. Heaven it was, and I ate the lot, crust and all.

Across the way, his pizza looked more traditional with its tomatoey base but with Old Winchester, a 20-month-old British Gouda style cheese and more La Latteria but mozzarella this time. On top was Tempus Chorizo from Weybridge, Chilli honey and San Marzano tomatoes, and it was undoubtedly the poshest meat pizza I have seen. Again, it had an excellent crust, meats, and cheeses, and just one tiny complaint that the sweetness of the honey was a little overpowering. I tasted it, and he was correct, so we sprinkled a little chilli oil on top to temper it down. We followed these with an excellent pannacotta and coffee and were genuinely full.

Rind is a lovely restaurant that suits its neighbour, the Courtyard Dairy, so well; they have a great synergy. Service was a little muddled at times, and I felt for one lovely young person who was a little overwhelmed by my questions, though I stopped when I realised he had just started work here. The wine list is excellent, emphasising low-intervention and biodynamic wines, which pleased me no end. Honestly, what more is there to ask of the place with its stunning views, friendly staff, lively atmosphere, and excellent cooking with exciting, carefully sourced ingredients and wines? It is lovely, and I am so sorry I live so far away.

Welcome 4/5

Food 5/5

Atmosphere 5/5

Prices 5/5

Rind, Crows Nest Barn near Settle, Austwick, North Yorkshire LA2 8AS Tel: 01524 958088