All's quiet on Preston front
On the other side of the Pennines, Craig Woodhouse finds himself bewitched in one of Britain's undiscovered gems.
When I told people I was going for a weekend away near Preston, I met with quite a lot of laughter and a few bemused looks. While trips to the Lake District or the Yorkshire Dales are commonplace, for some reason people just don't seem to know about the Ribble Valley.
I had been tipped off about the area by a friend from nearby Bolton, who swore it was a great place for a getaway. And since I'm based just an hour's drive away in Manchester, I thought I'd give it a try.
Our hotel for the weekend, the Gibbon Bridge, near Chipping in the Forest of Bowland, celebrates its 25th anniversary this year. What started as a family-run farm has been transformed into one of the region's most renowned hotels and restaurants by owner Janet Simpson, who turns her hand to any task that needs doing. Set amid 23 acres of grounds that are regular winners of the North West in Bloom competition, the Gibbon Bridge has expanded and developed during its lifetime. At one stage, features salvaged from a church in Blackburn were incorporated into the building, which gives the place a gothic but homely feel. We stayed in a spacious split-level suite, with a whirlpool bath, and although the temptation was to stay in and enjoy the food prepared by head chef Gary Buxton – using local ingredients and vegetables grown in the hotel's grounds – we decided to venture out after a good night's sleep.
First up was a trip to Clitheroe, which to be honest was an accidental stop on our way to follow the Pendle Witches Trail – of which more later. Clitheroe boasts some upmarket boutiques alongside interesting delis and a gallery housed in the old railway station. But it also retains a traditional feel and offers impressive views of the surrounding area from the Norman castle which dominates its skyline. Having seen the imposing Pendle Hill from atop the castle walls, we set off in that direction to explore the rolling countryside and six tiny villages that surround it. It was this area that was home to the Pendle Witches – nine women convicted of witchcraft in 1612 and sent to the scaffold at Lancaster, some 50 miles away. It is one of the most notorious witching trials in British history, yet the story perhaps does not have the widespread notoriety it deserves.
Around this area, however, it is tricky to avoid. Having made our way through Worston, we continued driving down country lanes through farmland and countryside that evokes a bygone age. With Pendle Hill always in our sights, and seeming to invite us to climb it, we stopped at the Pendle Inn in Barley for a Lancashire ploughmans and a pint of Blond Witch to muster up the energy.
Some forward-thinking soul has carved a path out of the hillside to help with the climb, but it remains fairly challenging – at 1,827ft Pendle is only 173ft short of officially being a mountain – and would be particularly tricky in the wet. Not to mention in the dark of Hallowe'en, when many people make a midnight pilgrimage. But we were blessed with a lovely sunny afternoon. From the top, the rolling farmland below was shrouded in mist which only added to the landscape's mystical past. It wasn't hard to believe that witches once called the area home.
With the light fading fast we made our way back down the hill and on to Newchurch, before heading back to the hotel for a dip in the whirlpool bath.
The following day we continued our pursuit of the witches trail by paying a visit to Bowland wild boar park. The Forest of Bowland was once prime hunting ground populated by boar, and the park offers a chance to get close to these magnificent creatures. It's an ideal place to bring children, with a play park and tractor rides in addition to the boar, wallabies, cattle and deer. From there we began a picturesque drive through the Whitewell estate to the village of Dunsop Bridge, which is officially the centre of the British Isles according to Ordnance Survey.
Passing along single track lanes without another car in sight, it was easy to imagine that this is how some of Britain's other beauty spots looked before they became popular. All we encountered were the odd group of walkers, clearly enjoying the tranquillity as much as we were. In Dunsop Bridge itself we took turns to stand inside Britain's 100,000th phone box, which stands on the spot which marks the centre of the kingdom, before enjoying some home-made meat pie and scones in the post office tea room.
We then set off on the drive through the Trough of Bowland, which encapsulates the best of Britain's countryside.
Woodland passes, bleak heaths and a magnificent ascent to a plain which afforded views as far as Morecambe Bay and over Lancaster. The Trough was slightly more populated than the rest of our journey, but it wasn't hard to see why. People were enjoying picnics and walks, or just stopping for fresh air by the river which winds its way through one of the most beautiful areas I have been to.
After pausing to take in the views, we headed on towards Lancaster which was the final destination for the witches. But having enjoyed the countryside so much, we decided that ending in a city might just have spoilt the feeling of magic and mystery, so set off home instead.
We'd both agreed that we'd had such a great time in the tranquillity of the Ribble Valley that it was a shame to have to tell other people about it, so we're sticking to saying we went for a weekend near Preston.
If you go to explore it, don't be surprised to find yourself doing the same.
Staying there:
Craig Woodhouse was staying as a guest of the Gibbon Bridge Hotel, which offers spring shortbreaks from £60 per person, including dinner and B&B. Reservations: 01995 61456/www.
gibbon-bridge.co.uk
More information is available from Clitheroe Tourist Information (01200 425566) and Forest of Bowland (01772 534140 and www.forestofbowland.com).
Ribble Valley Trail is partly funded by Lancashire and Blackpool Tourist Board on www.tastelancashire08.com.
Ribble Valley website is www.ribblevalleyfoodtrail.co.uk
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Last Updated:
02 May 2008 4:09 PM
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Source:
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Location:
Yorkshire