Jutting out into the Atlantic on the north west corner of France, Brittany has always proudly retained a character distinct from the rest of the country.

Its Celtic origins – still apparent in its own language – and its sea-faring tradition made it at once independent, self-sufficient and outward-looking.

Fearsome Corsairs from St Malo for centuries prowled the oceans capturing foreign merchant shipping, adventurers set out around the world to seek their fortunes and fishermen spent months away from home on dangerous expeditions to secure rich pickings off Newfoundland.

It was the Victorians who first forged the British love of the area, building fine holiday villas and cottages to re-create their own image of England in the town of Dinard. It still retains its Anglophile character and has an annual festival of British film, this year from October 2-5.

The sheltered resort claims to have been the first to popularise sea bathing on what has become known as the Emerald Coast due to the striking colour of the waters.

It was along this coast, also in the 19th century, that the healing qualities of seawater were discovered and developed in the art of thalassotherapy. Baths, showers, jets and wraps are said to heal visitors as well as help them to relax and unwind.

Dinard is linked to the port of St Malo by a bridge over the river Rance which houses the only hydro-electric power station in Europe to run on the tides, which routinely rise 25ft in the area. The weather in Brittany can also be changeable although locals prefer to describe their climate as "mild and bracing" and much better than the rest of France would have it.

The walled old town of St Malo, a name derived from a 6th century Welsh monk who settled nearby, was destroyed by Allied bombing in 1944 but its narrow streets have been rebuilt and there are several interesting museums covering its maritime heritage, in particular.

The trading port remains busy, not least with cruise ships plying the coast, and will this August host a prestigious trans-Atlantic race from Quebec.

Impressive views out to sea from the ramparts include two islands reachable by foot at low tide, one of which is the last resting place of the writer, politician and diplomat Francois-Rene de Chateaubriand, who played a key role in the Romantic movement.

Further to the east around the attractive town of Cancale lie shell fishing grounds which, despite the advent of modern scientific techniques, are still based on traditional methods. Several farms are open for visitors to get an interesting insight into the oyster's six-year journey from the sea to the dinner table, while the town itself offers many opportunities to sample local dishes in seafront cafes.

Locally-produced oysters are exported globally, with one firm recently winning orders to Mongolia.

Visitors from around the world travel to see the astonishing medieval architecture of Mont St Michel which lies on the border with Normandy. The monastery and its buildings are piled high on a rocky outcrop to the height of 300ft on the summit of which stands a great church.

The spectacle, which was once linked to the mainland only at low tide, is visible for miles around and still strikes wonder in visitors today as it surely did in pilgrims centuries ago.

Inland there is the highly-impressive walled medieval town of Dinan and the pleasant community of Combourg which was home to Chateaubriand. The slightly gloomy medieval fortress where he grew up is open to visitors.

No visit to Brittany would be complete without sampling local specialities and the Bretons have plenty to choose from.

Master butter and cheese-maker Jean Yves Bordier, based in St Malo, produces no less than 230 cheeses and supplies a number of upmarket delicatessens and hotels in Paris, including the Ritz.

A group of some 15 chefs and hotels on the Emerald Coast have also joined forces as part of the Escales Gourmandes group to offer a taste of Brittany using local produce to cook up traditional dishes, among them galette and crepe, cotriade – a fish stew which is similar to bouillabaisse in Provence – and kouign amann, a cake.

Mike Waites flew to Dinard from East Midlands Airport with RyanAir (tel 0871 2460000). He stayed at the St Malo Hotel Golf and Country Club at Le Tronchet (tel 00 33 02 99 58 98 99) and the Hotel du Lac in Combourg (tel 00 33 02 99 73 05 65). For further information about Brittany go to www.bretagne35.com or about Escales Gourmandes go to www.escales-gourmandes.com.