Dining Out

Dining Out

Restaurant review: Gimbals, Sowerby Bridge

Life as a food reviewer is tough. Week after week, we seek out bistros, gastropubs, cafes and bars and report back honestly to help you make an informed choice when you’re planning a meal out. The entire purpose, from my point of view anyway, is to gently guide you, given your dollar is hard earned and you really don’t want to chuck it away on some rip-off restaurant which doesn’t care if you make a return visit. What qualifies us to do this? Well nothing really, other than an abiding love of grub. As Kenneth Tynan put it: “A critic is someone who knows the way but can’t drive the car.”

Dining Out
The Guns Bar, Saltburn.

Pub of the Week: The Guns Bar, Saltburn

Saltburn is an overlooked seaside town IMHO. It may be frayed round the edges, but I’ve got a soft spot for faded grandeur.

Dining Out
60-day aged sirloin with  mushrooms and chips , ox cheek mac 'n' cheese  from the Winter tasing menu at The Pheasant Hotel at Harome

Restaurant review: The Pheasant, Harome

Without traipsing over old ground, just how a village the size of Harome can be home to not one, but two restaurants is still a marvel. That both of these have the prominence most can only dream of simply beggars belief. They also share more than a postcode with one (The Pheasant) having been owned by the other (The Star) but now operate independently; don’t ask, it’s complicated but seems to be working.

Dining Out
The Angel on the Green, Bishopthorpe Road, York.

Pub of the Week: Angel on the Green, York

Sign that an area is achingly middle class No 233. When someone knits woolly hats and ponchos for a statue. And they don’t get nicked.

Dining Out
Head of Steam, Sheffield

Pub of the Week: The Head of Steam, Sheffield

Now heading toward its first anniversary, the Head is part of a branded chain of venues owned by Cameron’s Brewery – there are at least another two of them in Leeds, and half a dozen or so elsewhere. The building itself couldn’t be more central to the arts district of the city, with the Crucible Theatre to the right, the Winter Gardens to the left, and the Graves Art Gallery and Lyceum straight ahead. It was originally built as a bank, and the new design has opened up the main hall into a big, airy space.

Dining Out
Meat on the giant grill at Vaqueiros in York.

Steakholder society

For what we are about to receive... I am going to quote verbatim from the menu at Vaqueiros, a Brazilian restaurant which opened last month in York. Let me tell you this is not a menu where you choose, you get the lot. Let me tell you, too, that this excludes an all-you-can eat buffet of starters and desserts. Here goes, hope you’re feeling hungry.

Dining Out
Incir - sticky, unctuous sun-dried figs with a dollop of whipped cream on top, crowned with a walnut.

Restaurant review: Jardelle, Beverley

Now this more like it. I’ve been complaining for a while that Beverley is filling up with chain restaurants and the local establishments are getting slowly pushed out.

Dining Out
The Blue Bell, Hull

Pub of the Week: The Blue Bell, Hull

So you’re in Hull and looking to get cultured right up. You’ve seen the gallery and you’ve been to the museums and you’ve appreciated whichever piece of world-beating experimental performance art is being laid on that week. And now you want a sit down with a pint. Here’s a pub that almost certainly won’t be on your radar. Down an alley, running between Market Place and Trinity Market, entirely surrounded and (aside from its unique sign) invisible from public view is the Blue Bell.

Dining Out
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Small beer as coffee culture takes over our drinking habits

YORKSHIRE’S emerging coffee house culture is threatening to overturn its traditional fondness for the pint pot, according to a survey.

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Partridge breast with apricot, pistachio, spring onion. Picture: Tony Johnson.

Restaurant review: Vice & Virtue, Leeds

The top end of Briggate has never been the swanky part of Leeds. Take half a dozen paces past the Grand Theatre and all at once you’re in a place where the dustbinmen don’t seem to go, and the food offering slips seamlessly from cool bars and diners to tacky take-out joints. And there, in the middle of it all is an ungainly corner building with the legend Vice & Virtue over the dimly-lit door. I’ll admit I thought twice about it, then again at the top of the first flight of stairs. You might do the same, but trust me, push on.

Dining Out
The Gundog, Halifax

Pub of the Week: The Gundog, Halifax

Up until a couple of years ago you would have no cause to drop into this Grade II listed town centre pub unless you were a biker or a metalhead. Or both. Today it’s a different story: if you’re into original features, cask ale and Northern Soul, make a beeline. It’s a grand, imposing place, remodelled in 1904 by local architect WHD Horsfall and now the only pub in Halifax with a reasonably intact Edwardian interior.

Dining Out
The Queen, Doncaster.

Pub of the Week: The Queen, Doncaster

There are scores of old market towns in Yorkshire, and one thing is common to nearly all of them – around the area where traders assembled, you will find quite a few licensed premises. Well, times change, and many of the markets are no more. And, sadly, several of the adjacent pubs have disappeared as well.

Dining Out
Iberico ham and goats' cheese. Picture by Simon Hulme

Restaurant review: Pintura, Leeds

Even as recently as five years ago if someone had suggested going on a tapas crawl through the centre of Leeds they would have been laughed out of the room. So it’s a sign of just how far the city’s culinary scene has come on since then that today you would almost be spoilt for choice.

Dining Out
The Elephant and Castle, near Barnsley

Pub of the Week: Elephant and Castle, Hemingfield

Stop for a while at this delightful former coaching inn, and you are stepping back some centuries into a rich social history. Many drinkers and diners have walked over the stone-flagged floors and on a very cold winter’s afternoon, as the log fire roars at one end of the bar, it’s a pleasant refuge from the outdoors.

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Siu Mai pork and prawn. Picture by Simon Hulme

Restaurant review: Mans Market, Leeds

I’ve eaten my share of Chinese. I’ve overdosed on crab and ginger at the long gone Jumbo’s in Leeds and gone off-menu at Manchester’s Yang Sing. I’ve banqueted in Canton (before it became Guangzhou) on fragrant vegetables and delicate turnip cakes though more vivid memories are of chicken gizzard, jellyfish, thousand-year-old eggs, snake and, quite possibly, dog.

Dining Out
Celebrity chef Jamie Oliver has been hit by a combination of rising Brexit cost pressures and tough trading.

Bad taste as Jamie Oliver closes six restaurants - 120 staff hit

Jamie Oliver is to close six Jamie’s Italian restaurants as the celebrity chef is hit by a combination of rising Brexit cost pressures and tough trading.

Dining Out 7
Pave, Hull

Pub of the Week: Pave, Hull

Pubs can make many historic claims; some say they are the oldest in town, or the place where someone famous drank or died. Others can claim to have the longest bar or the smallest barmaid. Only one, though, can legitimately claim to be the place that inspired Hull to become City of Culture. That pub (or, more accurately, bar) is Pave.

Dining Out
The hiran ki sikar (�18.95)

Restaurant review: Tapasya, Hull

Here’s what you don’t do when you’re opening a new restaurant – lead all of your PR and marketing with “we’ve spent a million quid on this place!” You instantly position yourself in potential punters’ minds as the restaurant that needs to make a million quid back before it’s in profit. They consequently assume you are skimping on ingredients or staff pay, and resent and question every penny they hand over to you. It’s a basic error that Tapasya has made. Repeatedly. For months.

Dining Out
Should takeaways be more responsibile for the clean-up of litter?

YP Letters: Ways of keeping our streets free from litter

From: Dick Spreadbury, Liversedge.

Opinion 1
Will Inman, head brewer at Little Critters. Picture: Scott Merrylees

Hop and glory on Sheffield’s ale trail

When the New York Times name checked Sheffield in its 2014 list of places to visit some were surprised. It’s inclusion was down to it being named as one of the finest beer spots in the UK and the newspaper recommended a crawl around such real ale pubs as the Fat Cat and the Kelham Island Tavern. Earlier this year The University of Sheffield went one better and, via a commissioned report, declared Sheffield to be the world’s best beer city and the real ale capital of the world. It reported that the city currently has 57 breweries operating and 31 of those have opened within the last five years, with several more still opening this year.

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