Dining Out

Dining Out

Small beer as coffee culture takes over our drinking habits

YORKSHIRE’S emerging coffee house culture is threatening to overturn its traditional fondness for the pint pot, according to a survey.

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Partridge breast with apricot, pistachio, spring onion. Picture: Tony Johnson.

Restaurant review: Vice & Virtue, Leeds

The top end of Briggate has never been the swanky part of Leeds. Take half a dozen paces past the Grand Theatre and all at once you’re in a place where the dustbinmen don’t seem to go, and the food offering slips seamlessly from cool bars and diners to tacky take-out joints. And there, in the middle of it all is an ungainly corner building with the legend Vice & Virtue over the dimly-lit door. I’ll admit I thought twice about it, then again at the top of the first flight of stairs. You might do the same, but trust me, push on.

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The Gundog, Halifax

Pub of the Week: The Gundog, Halifax

Up until a couple of years ago you would have no cause to drop into this Grade II listed town centre pub unless you were a biker or a metalhead. Or both. Today it’s a different story: if you’re into original features, cask ale and Northern Soul, make a beeline. It’s a grand, imposing place, remodelled in 1904 by local architect WHD Horsfall and now the only pub in Halifax with a reasonably intact Edwardian interior.

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The Queen, Doncaster.

Pub of the Week: The Queen, Doncaster

There are scores of old market towns in Yorkshire, and one thing is common to nearly all of them – around the area where traders assembled, you will find quite a few licensed premises. Well, times change, and many of the markets are no more. And, sadly, several of the adjacent pubs have disappeared as well.

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Iberico ham and goats' cheese. Picture by Simon Hulme

Restaurant review: Pintura, Leeds

Even as recently as five years ago if someone had suggested going on a tapas crawl through the centre of Leeds they would have been laughed out of the room. So it’s a sign of just how far the city’s culinary scene has come on since then that today you would almost be spoilt for choice.

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The Elephant and Castle, near Barnsley

Pub of the Week: Elephant and Castle, Hemingfield

Stop for a while at this delightful former coaching inn, and you are stepping back some centuries into a rich social history. Many drinkers and diners have walked over the stone-flagged floors and on a very cold winter’s afternoon, as the log fire roars at one end of the bar, it’s a pleasant refuge from the outdoors.

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Siu Mai pork and prawn. Picture by Simon Hulme

Restaurant review: Mans Market, Leeds

I’ve eaten my share of Chinese. I’ve overdosed on crab and ginger at the long gone Jumbo’s in Leeds and gone off-menu at Manchester’s Yang Sing. I’ve banqueted in Canton (before it became Guangzhou) on fragrant vegetables and delicate turnip cakes though more vivid memories are of chicken gizzard, jellyfish, thousand-year-old eggs, snake and, quite possibly, dog.

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Celebrity chef Jamie Oliver has been hit by a combination of rising Brexit cost pressures and tough trading.

Bad taste as Jamie Oliver closes six restaurants - 120 staff hit

Jamie Oliver is to close six Jamie’s Italian restaurants as the celebrity chef is hit by a combination of rising Brexit cost pressures and tough trading.

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Pave, Hull

Pub of the Week: Pave, Hull

Pubs can make many historic claims; some say they are the oldest in town, or the place where someone famous drank or died. Others can claim to have the longest bar or the smallest barmaid. Only one, though, can legitimately claim to be the place that inspired Hull to become City of Culture. That pub (or, more accurately, bar) is Pave.

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The hiran ki sikar (�18.95)

Restaurant review: Tapasya, Hull

Here’s what you don’t do when you’re opening a new restaurant – lead all of your PR and marketing with “we’ve spent a million quid on this place!” You instantly position yourself in potential punters’ minds as the restaurant that needs to make a million quid back before it’s in profit. They consequently assume you are skimping on ingredients or staff pay, and resent and question every penny they hand over to you. It’s a basic error that Tapasya has made. Repeatedly. For months.

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Should takeaways be more responsibile for the clean-up of litter?

YP Letters: Ways of keeping our streets free from litter

From: Dick Spreadbury, Liversedge.

Opinion 1
Will Inman, head brewer at Little Critters. Picture: Scott Merrylees

Hop and glory on Sheffield’s ale trail

When the New York Times name checked Sheffield in its 2014 list of places to visit some were surprised. It’s inclusion was down to it being named as one of the finest beer spots in the UK and the newspaper recommended a crawl around such real ale pubs as the Fat Cat and the Kelham Island Tavern. Earlier this year The University of Sheffield went one better and, via a commissioned report, declared Sheffield to be the world’s best beer city and the real ale capital of the world. It reported that the city currently has 57 breweries operating and 31 of those have opened within the last five years, with several more still opening this year.

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The Grayston Unity, Halifax

Pub of the Week: The Grayston Unity, Halifax

Overnight, Halifax got cool. Don’t get me wrong. I love Halifax. It’s my adopted home town. But cool it ain’t. So all hail the Grayston Unity, an independent bar in a 19th century building, tucked away behind the magnificent town hall.

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Bubble and Sqeak. Picture by Simon Hulme

Restaurant review: Epicure, Huddersfield

I’ve struggled to eat well in Huddersfield. There are notable exceptions in the ‘burbs: Erics in Lindley, as fine a restaurant as you’ll find anywhere in the county, Three Acres in Shelley, always good, always dependable, and the peerless T&Cake in Almondbury. But in the town centre? That’s not to say I’ve eaten in every curry house and fried chicken joint, I haven’t, and for all I know I might be missing a trick. Letters on a postcard please.

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Pub of the week - Hatfields.

Pub of the Week: Hatfields, Hatfield, South Yorkshire

It could be possible that this venue is having a little bit of an identity crisis as it is not quite clear whether this is a restaurant with a pub attached or vice versa. It certainly does vigorously promote its food, but the bar is of generous proportions, and sweeps around into a smaller room to the side.

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Sea bass, paysanne vegetables, smoked salmon quince and a black pudding croquet.

Restaurant review: The Cavendish Hotel, Baslow, Bakewell

When the weather is cold and the sky dark it is not hard to think of fleeing to warmer places, but that doesn’t have to involve an airport. For me, warmer can also mean cosier and I love packing a bag and heading for a night at a country house hotel. Heaven is being holed up somewhere, preferably in a beautiful location, fresh scones and a pot of tea by the fire after a long walk, a drink in the bar before dinner and a comfy bed to snuggle down in. Then there is the breakfast and the papers next morning. Bliss.

Dining Out
Smoked proscutto ham salad - crispy mozzarella - apple - parmesan tuile - goats cheese. Picture: Bruce Rollinson

Restaurant review: Rascills, Raskelf, York

I feared he’d gone missing, that we’d lost sight of one of Yorkshire’s most treasured chefs, but no, he’s alive and well and cooking up a storm again. I’m talking about Richard Johns who, having owned and run Artisan in Hessle, a delectable little restaurant close by the Humber Bridge, suddenly upped and closed it in 2013.

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The University Arms, Sheffield.

Pub of the Week: The University Arms, Sheffield

I suspect that the University Arms, housed in a Victorian detached red brick, was originally a private house. If it has been adapted for pub use, then it has been done very well, to offer a set of lovely little snugs that all lead off each other with panel and glass divisions. There’s a great conservatory, a big bay window and a beer garden that must get packed in summertime.

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Tommy Banks, head chef at the Black Swan at Oldstead. 
Picture by Gerard Binks

Great British Menu’s Tommy Banks goes back to his roots

Tommy Banks is excited. We are in the garden of the Black Swan at Oldstead, the Michelin-starred pub owned by his mum and dad and run by Tommy and his big brother James.

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The Crown and Anchor, Tickton.

Pub of the Week: Crown & Anchor, Tickton

A rite-of-passage if you grew up in East Yorkshire was a cycle ride up to Tickton to spend hot summer afternoons jumping off the footbridge above the River Hull. The river is narrow, straight and deep here and primarily used by pleasure cruisers, so the trick was always to bomb into the water without breaking your leg on the deck of a cabin cruiser. It’s a tradition upheld to this day, the only thing that’s changed is the pub next door has now gone upmarket.

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