Pub of the Week: The (Little) Plough, Doncaster

Right up until the late Sixties, the Hewitt's Ales brand was well-known throughout Lincolnshire and South Yorkshire. They not only brewed their own beers, but they also built up an impressive chain of some 300 pubs. Today the only thing that remains is their name, confidently spelled out on the front of The (Little) Plough '“ there's a bigger one a couple of miles away.

It is nothing short of a minor miracle that this pub wasn’t swept away with the redevelopment of the town in the 1970s. Completely untouched by time or progress, The Plough is currently undergoing a slow, thorough restoration.

It is a delightful place, set in a comfortable time-warp, with dozens of original features. There is absolutely stunning original Art Deco window glass. The pub sign is to get a makeover from a distinguished local artist.

The site on which it is built was so small that there is simply no room for a kitchen, so food is a no-no. In that lounge, there is a cheery glowing coal fire, and a bar shelf that is about a yard wide. That where drinks are ordered. The bar in the other room (which has the TV) is somewhat longer.

The trio of alternating real ales are brilliantly kept, and there is a strong nod toward the famed Acorn beers of Barnsley Brewery.

The LP is much-loved, well-run, and full to the brim with period charm. People in here know what the bloke (or lass) at the next table is called. It is, in short, not just the Little Plough, but also a little gem.

• The Plough, 8 West Laith Gate, Doncaster, DN1 1SF. 01302 738310.

WELCOME 5/5

DRINKS SELECTION 3/5

ATMOSPHERE 4/5

PRICES 5/5