Book review: The Christmas Chronicles by Nigel Slater

The Observer Food writer's focus turns to winter, and covers everything from Christmas lunch to the art of choosing a good Christmas tree, as well as his memories of chilly morning walks along the hedgerows to school.
RECIPES AND STORIES: Nigel Slater's The Christmas Chronicles.RECIPES AND STORIES: Nigel Slater's The Christmas Chronicles.
RECIPES AND STORIES: Nigel Slater's The Christmas Chronicles.

If the festive season is when you’re at your most giddy, if wearing thick socks and sitting by the fire is your happy place, and if eating mince pies is your culinary highlight of the year, this book is for you.

It might have Christmas in the title, but this is an ode to the winter season in general, starting from November 1, and finishing up on February 2. Written in diary form, Slater ponders the seasons and how what he’s cooking fits with the moment. Yes, there’s wisdom on perfect mince pies and getting your turkey just right, but there’s also simple puds for frosty evenings (baked apples with mascarpone, chocolate mousse with hazelenut crumb), hearty lunches (bread pudding with ham, comte and taleggio) and feasts that don’t just suit the festivities (roast lamb with rosemary and coriander seeds and pies galore).

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You can get bogged down in stories, and hungry for more recipes, but if you like your food alongside wintry tales it works rather well. With its fabric cover and chunky demeanour though, it seems a shame to mucky it up in the kitchen.

Published by 4th Estate, priced £26.