Curiouser and curiouser

Fashion takes a walk on the wild and whimsical side this spring as designers fall in love with Tim Burton's spectacular new film Alice in Wonderland, which goes out on general release this Friday.

Burton's association with fashion goes way back, thanks to his knack of creating curiously beautiful creatures whose iconic look never leaves the consciousness, from the eponymous Edward Scissorhands to Willy Wonka in Charlie and the Chocolate Factory – both played by Johnny Depp, who becomes Wonderland's Mad Hatter, wearing the most glorious titfer, swirled round with sumptuous gold satin (expect to see this look copied for summer weddings).

Team the psychedelic imaginings of Lewis Carroll with Burton's equally magical, off-kilter genius, and it's easy to understand why this visually stunning, escapist fantasy is so entrancing the fashion world in a time of austerity – it's satisfying an increasing yearning to be reborn in a riot of colour and beauty, although both are deeply, richly confused by darkness and ambiguity.

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Alice herself, played by Mia Wasikowska, has been given a rather fabulous fantasy Victoriana look, in a full heavenly blue dress and fingerless gloves, and it's this sumptuous innocence mixed with something slightly grubby and sinister that fully evokes this light-and-shade, soft and hard fashion look for right now.

Designers have been channelling this ambiguity, mixing innocence with sophistication, prettiness with knowingness, simplicity with extravagance, for spring 2010. On the catwalk, Christopher Kane showed pink and blue gingham dresses in chiffon embellished with sequins and odd embroidery. Pastels are everywhere but there's nothing weak or sugary about them – look out for ice-cream parlour shades of lilac, yellow and powder blue. Don't be afraid to clash pattern and prints.

Try distinct florals teamed with more graphic versions for a fantasy element. Mix in lace and lots of ruffles and consider toughening the whole look up with strong, black, studded and Gothic-style accessories. Look out too for striped blazers and military-style jackets.

If you want to add just a touch of manicness, try brightly checked bags and kooky footwear – heeled trainer styles and pumps are ideal, to wear with socks.

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If you're crazy about Alice, look out for the long tees (Miss Selfridge and Evans) and many Alice-inspired accessories there are around at the moment on the High Street and online. Now is the time to collect your Alice memorabilia.

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