Disneyworld, Florida: The magic circle

HERE I am enjoying waffles and maple syrup and Mickey Mouse wanders over and give me a good morning hug. This is Walt Disney World for grown-ups, enchantingly surreal, offering an excuse to rewind 25 years and give in to a saccharine onslaught on your world-weary defences.

The second that Safari Mickey walks into breakfast at the Tusker House Restaurant there is a tangible sense of everyone being a bit starstruck. Kids squeal on cue but it is the reaction of the adults, even those without nippers, that is significent. They all want their photo taken with him. Anyone who tells you Disney World is just for kids probably never believed in Father Christmas.

Whether you travel here with children or not, the staple Disney diet of magic and famous characters is available in abundance. But scratch the surface and you quickly discover that if you do want to act like a grown-up for a few hours, Disney World has that covered too. One of the ways in which that is most apparent is the range and quality of food.

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Disney World may conjure up images of burgers, popcorn and turkey drumsticks but you want a full sit-down family meal or quick service restaurant, where there is no sign of cartoon mice, ducks or spacemen, take your pick.

The site – more than twice the size of Manhattan island – is divided into four main theme parks. Magic Kingdom was the first and most famous, and then there's Epcot, Hollywood Studios and Animal Kingdom. Each is divided into themed areas with the food available mainly mirroring these themes.

At Asia in Animal Kingdom and you have, for example, Yak and Yeti, where among historic Himalayan artefacts you can enjoy really good Asian cuisine combining flavours from China, India and Nepal. Or sample Disney World's best milkshakes at Sci-Fi Dine-In Theater (Hollywood Studios). Here rollerskating waitresses serve meals to guests watching B-Movie flicks in vintage convertibles.

World Showcase at Epcot has the most food with 11 nations represented including France, Japan and Morocco, dotted around World Showcase Lagoon. The waiting staff at all the national restaurants come from that country, At one of Epcot's most recent additions – Via Napoli in "Italy" – authentic pizzas and pastas are created by chefs who look like they have come straight out of The Sopranos.

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The whole Disney World experience speaks of attention to detail. It is easy to be cynical about this sort of stuff but it is impressive.

Downtown Disney and The Boardwalk also house an array of eating and after-hours drinking options, including Jellyrolls (a fun duelling piano bar). There are 34 resorts hotels on site, so you are never going to be short of nightcap options.

No one goes to Disney World just for the food; good grub is an added bonus.

How do the attractions rate? It is a given that Disney World's high-octane complement of roller-coasters and thrill rides will always dominate the headlines, after all why wouldn't you crow about The Rock 'n' Roller Coaster Starring Aerosmith, which launches you from 0 to 60mph in 2.8 seconds?

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But it is the exhilarating use of digital and 3D technology which turns the tamest sounding 'kiddy' attractions into some of the most brilliant. Turtle Talk with Crush (Epcot) blows your mind as the animated Finding Nemo character improvises conversations with his audience. It's Tough to be a Bug (Animal Kingdom) lets you know exactly how it feels to be loathed by humans.

DINOSAUR (Animal Kingdom) is more jumpy than any haunted house. And both interactive Toy Story rides – Toy Story Mania (Hollywood Studios) and Buzz Lightyear's Space Ranger Spin (Magic Kingdom) – are hysterical animated digital shoot 'em ups.

When the Florida climate gets a bit too much, or you simply want to enjoy a bit of fun splashing about, two water parks – Blizzard Beach and Typhoon Lagoon – do high adrenaline to chilled-out, with Typhoon Lagoon's Surf Pool hosting one-to-one surf lessons in controlled waves.

Firework and illumination shows burst into life over the parks nightly accompanied by sweeping orchestration and compelling storytelling. On select nights, Fanstasmic (Hollywood Studios) sees Sorcerer Mickey battle Disney's most infamous villains in a jaw-dropping, often menacing, spectacle of fire, water and light.

All enchantingly surreal.

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It copes with crowds by means of the USA's third largest transport system. More than 60,000 people – or "cast members" – work within its 39 square miles.

You probably think a Disney World trip would be once-in-a-lifetime. However old you are, I bet you will have changed your mind by the time you get home.

TIPS TO STAY ON TOP OF THE WORLD

Plan before you go: www.disneyworld.com provides everything you need from attractions information, maps, transport guidance and restaurant menus.

Disney World apps are available.

www.mousesavers.com is an unofficial website full of money-saving tips and discount advice.

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Measure the kids – some of the rides have height restrictions.

Make restaurant reservations – many on-site restaurants get booked up quickly, especially Character Dining and Dinner shows. Reservations can be made online 180 days in advance.

Photocopy or photograph the back of your tickets – if you lose a ticket the random coded information on the back is your only hope of getting a replacement. Keep all receipts.

The free FASTPASS saves your place in line for an attraction. http://disneyworld.disney.go.com/guest-services/fast-pass/

Avoid dehydration – Florida is hot and humid.

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Use Rider Swap – allows both adults to ride on selected attractions without queuing twice if you have children to look after. Tell the ride attendant you want to swap beforehand.

All rides have a compartment for a bag so no-one has to sit out to look after them.

GETTING THERE

Walt Disney Travel Company offers a seven-night stay at Walt Disney

World Resort in a moderate resort from 1,835 per person (based on two adults, departing August 5 2011) including

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return economy flights, seven-day park ticket and complimentary quick service dining plan. For more information, call 0870 2424 900 and select the 'flight inclusive' option or visit www.waltdisneyworld.co.uk

Virgin Holidays (www.virginholidays.co.uk) and First Choice (www.firstchoice.co.uk) are also offering great package

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