A grand day out...

Deservedly renowned in its own right, Wensleydale is nevertheless now known the world over thanks largely to the cheese-eating habits of an animated plasticine figure – hapless inventor Wallace – and his loyal, if world-weary, canine companion, Gromit.

Approaching from the east via Ripon and the beautiful riverside village of West Tanfield with its handsome bridge over the Ure, the land around gives little indication of the hillier regions further to the west. West Tanfield is definitely somewhere to become acquainted with, and not only for the sake of the Marmion Tower, situated close to the village church of St Nicholas.

It was once the main entrance to a manor house now gone. A noticeable feature is its large oriel window which looks like a small-scale Juliet balcony. There is a door under the arch of the tower giving access to the upper floors via a steep and narrow stone staircase. There is no access to any of the rooms or to the rooftop. In 1513, Elizabeth Parr, grandmother of Katherine Parr, the only wife of Henry VIII to survive him, became the owner.

Another reason to linger here are two fine pubs, the Bull Inn and the Bruce Arms, now run as a partnership between artist David Stead and chef Hugh Carruthers, formerly of the Michelin-starred Yorke Arms at Ramsgill in Nidderdale. It was at the Bruce Arms that a fisherman and author called Francis “Max” Walbran was laid out a century ago. He drowned in the Ure and there’s commemorative cross is in St Nicholas’s churchyard.

Trying to see the whole of Wensleydale on one of the shortest days of the year was a challenge, hence a stop in Masham which was brief when really you need to linger. Especially if you are interested in beer and brewing. The Theakston’s and Black Sheep visitor centres are both highly recommended, as is the pub, restaurant and hotel, The White Bear.

Back on the road again, just as the Yorkshire Dales National Park notices come into sight, you arrive at Jervaulx Abbey which we had entirely to ourselves. Founded in 1156, the abbey was once a great Cistercian monastery until the Dissolution in the 16th century.

Today it is an atmospheric ruin – a magical place with numerous nooks and crannies to explore. Tranquil and elegantly overgrown with wild flowers, ivy and other climbing plants, it is resonant with history. Its massive scale, even as a ruin, is impressive. It’s privately owned and for the past 40 years been in the care of the Burden family. There is an honesty box for visitors to leave a donation to help with care and upkeep.

East Witton is always a delight to visit, with its white picket fencing and ageless charm. The Georgian cottage terraces look as though they have just jumped off the pages of a Jane Austen novel. Another reason for stopping here, at least for a coffee, the Blue Lion, one of the region’s favourite gastropubs and hotels.

We stopped, again very briefly, in Middleham because it’s impossible not to want to visit the castle when you are nearby. The village is also full of good pubs, restaurants and cafes – a great location for basing yourself for a Dales holiday.

Leyburn is another tourist centre with plenty of pubs, like The Black Swan, and shops that you won’t find on the average high street – such as Wray Bros Ironmongers, the kind of shop which can sell you almost anything you need for the home or garden, the full range of which – including charcoal, curtain rails, barbecues, floor tacks, fancy goods – is advertised on large oval plaques on the outside wall.

Next stop was Wensley, the small village that gives the dale its name, though some locals still refer to Yoredale, after the river Ure. The church in Wensley, Holy Trinity, is administered by the Churches Conservation Trust: though it has not been de-consecrated, the building is no longer used for regular services despite its beauty, history and links to the Orde-Powlett family who have owned Bolton Castle since it was first built more than 700 years ago. Some visitors may recognise the church for its role in the television series All Creatures Great and Small – it was here that the internal shots for the wedding of James Herriot to his wife Helen were filmed. We parked in a lay-by at Swinithwaite having glimpsed – through the bare winter trees – the appealing sight of the Temple Folly behind a tall roadside wall. From here you can enjoy mid-distance views of Bolton Castle on the other side of the Ure. The folly seems currently to be used as a rental holiday home but has enjoyed an interesting history going back more than 200 years as a hunting lodge and belvedere. Not far from here, if you follow a woodland path south for half a mile, are the remains of an ancient Knight Templars chapel.

At Aysgarth we viewed the impressive and swollen Upper Falls before crossing the river and heading west from the edge of Carperby towards Askrigg. En route we decided to call in at Nappa Hall, a fortified manor house of some distinction which was sold two years ago. Traditionally the home of the Metcalfe family for many centuries, the intriguing house has a history dating back to the late 13th century and, like so many other such surviving structures from an ancient past, has tentative associations with Mary, Queen of Scots – though it’s true she was incarcerated nearby at Bolton Castle for several months.

Our whistlestop tour next brought us to Askrigg, another location brought to public attention by the Herriot TV series. The most photographed building in the village is Skeldale House, close to the King’s Arms pub and the church. From here, TV vets Christopher Timothy, Robert Hardy and Peter Davison were regularly seen emerging to go on their rounds. Askrigg still benefits from tourism but is a working village inhabited by real people. It’s the home of Askrigg Ale, one of the popular beers brewed by Rob Wiltshire whose microbrewery, the Yorkshire Dales Brewing Company, is located at Seata Barn, up one of the many lanes and alleyways that characterise the village. Near St Oswald’s church we found a pottery, run by Andrew Hague for more than 30 years. His back garden is a haven for feeding birds and indeed a sanctuary for anyone seeking quiet and serenity. His creations are both artistic and practical; we bought a beautiful small jug and will visit again.

If you have time, there are lots of walks that start from the village and recommended is the one to Mill Gill Force and Whitfield Gill Force.

Time was against us, however, the light was fading and still we wanted to get to Hawes before the famous Wensleydale Creamery closed for the day. Hawes, at the western end of Wensleydale, with Great Shunner Fell dominating the view to the north, is a popular town with all who live nearby. For tourists, also, Hawes has much to offer with hotels, restaurants and cafes, and attractions such as the Creamery, home of Wallace’s favourite cheese. Tuesday is market day when the town attracts the kind of trade more often associated with weekends at the seaside in the summer season. Hawes is known as the “little capital” of Wensleydale and Yorkshire’s highest market town.

Having been to Jervaulx Abbey earlier in the day, it was interesting to discover at the creamery’s small museum that Wensleydale cheese derives from a recipe created by the French Cistercian monks who settled at Jervaulx in the 12th century.

Though we’d driven in the rough equivalent of a straight line, we felt as if we’d come full circle. A few cheesy purchases ensured that our Grand Day Out was one we’d remember for a while to come.