Interview - Alan Hinkes: 'Although I knew I was likely to die, all that I could feel was absolute joy'

It is five years since Alan Hinkes became the first Briton and only the 12th person to scale the world's 14 highest mountains; a culmination of more than 20 years' work.

The 8,000ers, so-called as they are all more than 8,000 metres, have claimed many lives, including a number of Alan's friends and colleagues.

The 56-year-old grandfather explains that 8,000 metres is known as the death zone among climbers. If things go wrong at that altitude, there is no hope of rescue.

"Most of those who attempt the list get killed on their 13th or final climb because they are pushing themselves too hard to complete it," says Alan, who nearly proved that statistic himself.

Before his third attempt to climb Kangchenjunga, the world's third highest mountain after Everest and K2, Alan said he was "always prepared to back off because no mountain is worth a life".

He went on to say: "All your experience tells you not to be reckless. Still I know I might reach a point where it would be wiser to turn, back but I keep going." He couldn't know how right he would be.

As he casts his mind back five years Alan admits that he may not have followed his own mantra – and knows that the mountain so nearly claimed his life.

"We'd been waiting at base camp from early April to late May to climb to the summit because the weather had been unbelievably bad. That plays havoc with you physically and psychologically. You are climbing every day to make sure you are acclimatised and the longer you wait, the more the anxiety grows.

"When you are younger, you don't think it will ever happen to you and you overestimate your climbing skills and at the end of the day you don't have much to lose. The older you get the more you realise it can happen to you and you don't overestimate your skills and you also have a lot to lose."

Most climbers plan to get to the summit by noon, as it gives plenty of time for the descent before the weather closes in during the afternoon. But on this occasion Alan decided to ignore his years of experience and plough on.

"In my mind, I was thinking if it takes me until 8pm to reach the summit then I am going to do it. It was May 31 and the weather held all day and so I just kept going."

He was climbing with a Nepalese friend who decided to turn back at 4pm, leaving Alan to climb alone to the summit. At 7.15pm, Alan reached the summit, just before dark and took out a picture of his daughter Fiona and grandson and took a photograph of himself holding the photograph as he had done many times before.

But rather than celebrating the historic moment of having conquered all 14 of the world's highest mountains, Alan's thoughts were turning to the descent.

"Coming back is a success; the summit is a bonus," he says.

As well as having to descend the world's third highest and one of the most difficult mountains in the dark, the weather had turned and Alan was caught in the most frightening of situations – a blizzard at more than 8,000 metres in the dark, with no chance of rescue.

"I got my head torch out and the light just bounced back at me like headlights when you're driving in a snowstorm. I remember thinking 'this is going to be tricky. You've had it this time. You are on your own in the dark, in a blizzard on the world's third highest mountain at –20 degrees. You are going to die.'

"I started to hyperventilate. But then I realised that I had to pull myself together. I could either sit there and die or do something about it. It was down to me."

Alan summoned up all his 30 years' of experience of mountaineering and tried to concentrate on descending.

"I had to concentrate on the tactical side of things, not the strategic, or I would have been lost. I have always had a sixth sense when it comes to knowing where to go," says the former geography and outdoor education teacher.

"Although I knew I was probably going to die, once I started the descent all I could feel was absolute joy. It is hard to explain, but I was really enjoying myself. This is what I had trained for all those years. The rest had just been a practice really; this was the real thing. I kept thinking 'how can you be enjoying this you are going to die' but I couldn't help it." Alan eventually caught up with his Nepalese friend –which was an emotional moment, as both men were sure the other must have perished, and together they made it back down to base camp and the celebrations could begin.

Since completing his challenge Alan has been content to climb in the UK and Europe. He recently climbed the 39 highest peaks in Britain in eight days.

He is happy inspiring others giving talks and working with North Yorkshire County Council and Leeds Met.

"It is so important for young people to push themselves to the limit," says Alan, who was inspired to become a mountain climber while a pupil at Northallerton Grammar School. He is grateful to the teachers who inspired him and for the opportunity he had to go fell walking and mountain climbing while a teenager.

"Children just aren't given this experience any more because of health and safety worries. But if they were allowed to go out with the properly qualified people then there is nothing to worry about."

He is very worried about NYCC plans to cut its outdoor education budget.

"The benefit to children of being outdoors and learning

new skills just can't be overestimated," says Alan with passion.

"They have to be given the chance to try these things. It give them confidence and a sense of achievement which goes beyond the classroom."

A LIFE OF HIGH ADVENTURE

Alan Hinkes is the first Briton to scale the world's 14 highest mountains all over 8,000 feet high.

He started his challenge in 1987 by climbing Shishapangma, finishing his final peak Kangchenjunga in 2005 when he was 51.

He received an OBE in 2006 for his mountaineering achievements.

This summer he scaled the highest 39 British peaks in eight days for Mountain Rescue England Wales. The volunteers' charity operates in North Yorkshire.

He lives near Northallerton and can often be seen walking the North York Moors and in The Lake District.

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