The key to a great escape

lvis is alive – I should know, he kissed me. His mouth might have been a bit longer and harder than you'd expect, and his breath a bit fishy, but that was him all right. He even did a little shake.

Getting up close and personal with sea mammals is only one of the attractions of the Florida Keys, and Elvis is a star turn at Dolphin Plus, an educational and research centre at Key Largo. You can also swim with Bella, Fiji and other playful Atlantic bottlenoses, as well as Wono – the resident Californian sea lion.

Although the dolphins are fenced into a deep canal, you either swim freely among them or have a structured session where trainers guide them through a series of interactive tasks. These see the dolphins pushing you around the pool by your feet, bringing you presents and leaping over poles. You can also rub their bellies and joyride holding on to their dorsal fins. We did all this amid pouring rain – the remnant of a January thunderstorm which swept in without warning.

Of course, this was a mid-winter chill in this most southern of US states. Two weeks earlier, temperatures sank into single figures – causing problems for local wildlife such as fish and sea turtles – but the weather bounced back pretty quick.

From Miami airport, our rented convertible hit the Dixie Highway and then US Route 1. We arrived that night at the luxurious Cheeca Lodge in Islamorada – the second of the Keys just down from Largo.

Cheeca's presidential suite frequently hosts George HW Bush on fishing trips. It features opulent rooms and functional family apartments, swimming pools and an organic health and beauty spa – at prices you'd expect for an exclusive resort. Also on offer are a Jack Nicklaus-designed nine-hole golf course, a gym, a private beach and a children's camp.

We dined at swish Pierre's Restaurant nearby, which offers a sunset view, a delightful range of seafood and ambient lighting. It was understated in a way that speaks of old money – we were by far the noisiest table. There was dolphin on the menu, but unlike the endangered bluefin tuna in one of the salads, this was all right – it's an abundant fish otherwise known as mahi-mahi, not a relative of Flipper.

Next morning, an early start was required for a chartered fishing trip from Robbie's Marina down the road, with suitably weather-beaten Captain Jeff and his mate, Joe, who told the worst jokes

in the world while trying to lure in some live bait.

We were seeking sailfish, which grow up to 3m long and weigh up to 90kg, but the closest we got was a glimpse of one arcing out of the water and freeing itself from the hook a safe distance from the boat. I pulled in a kingfish and a colleague got one of its smaller mackerel relatives, both of which we later had cleaned and cooked for lunch. A grouper went back as its catching season had ended.

We received a stern lesson in America's tipping culture – the boat staff, who had been our best friends ever, turned decidedly cold when we unknowingly gave only $20. They'd expected at least 100 green bills on top of the $850 fee for a half-day charter.

The Keys are heavily tourism-oriented. Besides the tips, advertised prices don't include taxes, so your bill can mount fast.

Travelling down to Marathon, one of the major cities of the 1,700 clustered islands that make up the Keys, we saw, first-hand, the effects of the recent cold snap at the Turtle Hospital (www.turtlehospital.org).

In the buildings and grounds of a former motel, the charity was treating turtles which had gone into shock and were found floating helpless in the sea. It takes in sick and injured turtles.

At the foot of the island chain is its crowning glory, Key West. Resplendent in its art deco architecture and more than 200 years of turbulent history, including the 1935 hurricane destruction of the railway that had made it the southernmost city on the continental United States, Key West was for almost a decade the home of novelist Ernest Hemingway.

His former house is a tourist attraction, having been sold in the 1960s soon after his death. You see the six-toed cats he loved to breed, and learn of his passions.

Walking around the city, you breathe in the atmosphere and take in the time-frozen buildings. Get your bearings via the informative train and trolley sightseeing tours.

Duval Street, running through the heart of Key West, blends tacky tourist tat with restaurants, drag shows and Hemingway's main haunt – Sloppy Joe's bar. At its foot lies the sunset strip, where hundreds gather daily to see the golden horizon and street performers.

The Ocean Key Resort hotel, overlooking the sunset pier, has magnificent views across the water, along with a pool area and luxury health spa. Our room had a huge marbled bathroom with air-jet tub.

For dinner, Conch Republic Seafood offers exactly that – a big, bustling venue with a wide variety of fish and fruits de la mer. Afterwards try to visit Kermit's Key Lime Shoppe to sample the local variety of Florida's famous dessert pie.

For something more European, 915 on Duval Street, run by Englishman Stuart Kemp, from Hinckley, near Leicester, offers divine fusion food and a great wine list.

Key West is also the gateway to the Dry Tortugas National Park, a protected area of coral reefs teeming with fish.

But there was, I fear, too little time to explore fully all the island's attractions.

Florida fact file

Gary Morley was a guest of Florida Keys & Key West, and flew Virgin Atlantic to Miami. Virgin Holidays offers seven nights in the Florida Keys from 569 in June, including scheduled flights ex-Heathrow to Miami, and seven nights' Alamo car hire. Regional connections to Heathrow from Manchester start at 89. Virgin Holidays: 0844 557 3859 and www.virginholidays.co.uk Other car rentals include Chrysler Sebring convertible from 235 per week, and Ford Focus (compact) from 136, at www.dollar.co.uk

Hotel details: Cheeca Lodge & Spa from 145 per queen double room per night: www.cheeca.com; Ocean Key from 221.00: www.oceankey.com

Attractions include Dolphin Plus, from 112 per swimmer: www.dolphinsplus.com;

Robbie's Fishing Marina with half-day fishing tripon party boat from 21; Turtle Hospital, with tours for donation of $15: www.turtlehospital.org and Dolphin-spotting eco-tour with Captain Victoria from 50 for party of six: www.captainvictoria.com

YP MAG 29/5/10