Living the high life

It was a hot sultry evening and the drum roll of thunder accompanied our arrival at a former customs post guarding the Umbrian-Tuscan-Lazio border. The Torre Bisenzio, astride a ridge above the rolling landscape of Umbria, is visible from miles away in the Monte Rufeno national park. The approach up a lavender-lined drive is so steep that the buildings are dramatically revealed only as you near the top. Once derelict and dating back to the 13th century, it is set in landscaped gardens which are part of a 450-acre estate.

The 360-degree views were spectacular especially beneath the thunder clouds and lightning which zig-zagged across the hills and valleys below. The tempest was over as quickly as it began, and there was an added bonus. The rain unlocked smells from the garden – lavender, jasmine, rosemary, thyme, sage, roses and even a sweet curry leaf plant.

The estate also has an organic farm with 800 indigenous white Chiannina cows, Cinta Senese pigs and a small flock of sheep. The estate produces its own vegetables, olive oil, wine and even saffron. The added ingredient to a stay here is housekeeper Cynthia, who came to Italy from her native Philippines 20 years ago.

She met her husband Lamberto (who looks after the garden) and settled at Allerona. Cynthia will do lunch for guests using fresh, local ingredient and one of her specialities is Parmigiana, a dish of fried aubergine layered with cheese and tomato sauce and baked in the oven. Another is ribeye steak from the Chiannina cows simply cooked on the barbecue and served Italian style with a squeeze of lemon juice and salad.

This is a very seductive place. The heated infinity pool has views for miles over the patchwork Umbrian landscape of golden grain fields criss-crossed by green vines and olive trees. In June, the fireflies added their own firework display to late evening dips. It was easy to slip into the relaxed pace of a morning swim, followed by Cynthia's delicious lunch, then an afternoon of sunbathing and admiring the views from different vantage points. But staying in one spot would mean missing out on a fascinating part of the world. Umbria, the only landlocked region of Italy, is often described as Tuscany without the tourists and it's much quieter than its more famous north-eastern neighbour. In the beautiful medieval hill villages around the Torre – Fabro, Allerona, Pallazzone are just three nearby – you'll rarely hear an English voice and customers in bars and restaurants will be mainly locals. In a shady bar in Fabro the only other customers were a group of half a dozen old men playing cards nursing one Campari between them.

This part of the world has so much to offer. Orvieto, built on a huge slab of volcanic rock with an amazing towering cathedral and world-class wine, is only 40 minutes' drive away. A funicular takes passengers from the car park and rail station below up to the Piazza del Duomo. Italy's largest lake formed in the crater of an extinct volcano, Lago di Bolsena, is 45-minutes in the car. The water is crystal clear and safe to drink. From April to September, excursion boats depart Bolsena headed for the islands in the lake, one of which is an ex-summer residence of the Pope. About half an hour's drive from Torre, and just over the border in Tuscany, is San Casciano dei Bagni, famous for its thermal waters which feed the Fonteverde Spa centre. It even has a special thermal pool for owners' dogs.

Just outside the little town of Acquapendente we stumbled across a small co-operative selling great wheels of Umbria's speciality, the slightly salty Pecorino cheese made from sheep's milk. A co-operative was set up almost half a century ago by the local parish priest anxious keep the tradition alive and to stop the exodus of sheep farmers from the area. There are also small, family-run vineyards who welcome visitors.

Venturing further afield, Rome is a couple of hours' drive away, Florence an hour-and-a-half, Siena an hour and 20 minutes, Montepulciano 45 minutes and Assisi one hour 50 minutes. Regular train services to these places run from Fabro, eight kilometres from Torre.

Torre Bisenzio is perfect for a large group of family or friends, and is the kind of place which would make a special occasion memorable. Accommodation is in two separate buildings linked by a courtyard, the eight bedrooms are all en suite, and there's a covered gazebo for outdoor dining with barbecue and

pizza oven.

Additional attractions are a boules court, snooker room, sauna and gym, excellent Wifi internet access and Italian Sky TV.

Casa Bassa is a separate restored farmhouse on the estate, divided into two three-bedroomed apartments with a large heated swimming pool, landscaped gardens and stunning views towards Orvieto and Tuscany.

GETTING THERE

The nearest large airport to Torre Bisenzio is Rome Fiumicino (175km).

Pisa airport is served by Ryanair from Leeds Bradford and the drive from Pisa takes about two-and-a-half hours through spectacular scenery.

www.torrebisenzio.it

YP MAG 23/10/10