Malta for all seasons

For such a small island, Malta has a big history. It stands at a crossroads between continents, a blessing that has also proved a curse. Waves of invaders have wanted a piece of this idyllic location for themselves.

In June, July and August, you can see the modern version out in force, the holidaymakers from northern Europe. Every summer, the streets of the ancient fortified capital, Valetta, are filled with visitors, and the sandy beaches are crammed with sun seekers and their young families.

The Maltese have built a reputation as excellent hosts, but when the crowds go home, life slows down and the island's residents take time to enjoy their beautiful towns and coastline.

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Even during winter, the temperature rarely falls below 60F, a welcome respite from the scorching summer sun, which leaves high-season holidaymakers baking in heat of more than 100F. That's fine for lazing on the beach, but locals would recommend you visit in the spring or autumn to explore more of the island, and its tiny neighbours, Gozo and Comino.

Even in February, people eat outside in Maltese restaurants and British visitors are conspicuously obvious because they wear shirt-sleeves while the natives are still in their coats.

At this time of year, the streets of Valetta are busy, but mainly with islanders preparing for one of their biggest events, the annual street carnival where local families battle it out for best float.

But this is no English village fete; the floats are massive, brightly-coloured creations, standing 20 feet high and 40 or 50 feet long, and are towed through the ancient city by huge lorries.

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Crowds line the route, and health and safety appears to be only very loosely enforced, as people stand within inches of the vehicles as they lumber through the streets to be judged.

This is very much an island affair, the welcoming atmosphere is infectious and the relaxed approach to the whole extravaganza is a refreshing change from British officialdom.

In fact, a relaxed approach is taken to almost everything by the Maltese, but they are fiercely protective of their superb quality of life and proud of their status as an independent nation.

That said, every islander will be happy to regale you with tales of Maltese invaders, including the most famous,

the Order of the Knights of St John,

who are still a strong and powerful presence.

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A special interactive exhibition, The Malta Experience, is open permanently in Valetta, which includes the opportunity to view a film which tells the story of the islands from Roman times to today.

One of the strongest influences on modern Malta is obviously British – the island became a protectorate as early as 1799, a colony in 1814 and played a massive part in both World Wars.

Islanders stood firm in the face of Second World War aggression from near neighbours the Italians, suffering terrible food shortages as a result, and were collectively awarded the George Cross

in 1942.

Although independence was granted in 1964, with Malta finally becoming a republic in the 1970s, red telephone boxes and pillar boxes remain as a relic of the colonial past – and everyone speaks English.

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The buses are also firmly rooted in yesteryear, and those who remember English public transport in the 1950s and '60s are whisked back in time by the fleet of coaches which ply the roads. Painted in a bright yellow and orange livery, the buses are all owned by their drivers, and bear the names of the biggest British firms of half a century ago, including Leyland, AEC and Bedford.

A trip on these immaculately preserved vehicles can take you anywhere on Malta, but to reach the smaller neighbouring islands, Gozo and Comino, you need to take to the air, or the sea.

Comino, which is barely inhabited

and has just one hotel, is reached by

boat, and many locals travel there to swim in the famed Blue Lagoon and get away from the high-summer tourist boom.

Most people travel to Gozo by ferry,

but a new introduction is a helicopter shuttle service operated by island-

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based firm Heli Tours, which offers stunning views of all three islands

from above.

Gozo is much greener than Malta and has a resident population of around 30,000. Agriculture and fishing have

been a way of life for centuries and the locals, known as Gozitans, attempt to protect that.

Both Gozo and Comino are known as Malta's sister islands, and between them, the three are home to some of the best-preserved prehistoric temples, including Ggantija on Gozo.

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Visitors to Malta should also not miss Mdina – the Silent City – which can trace its history back more than 4,000 years and claims to be the place St Paul settled after being shipwrecked on the island.

It is here, in the walled city which is lit by traditional lamps at night, where Malta's ancient families live, many of them with links to the Norman, Sicilian and Spanish invaders who arrived in

the past.

As for the future, Malta is being invaded again – this time with migrants from north Africa, 150 miles to the south, who arrive on tiny rafts in the hope of being admitted to Europe.

This only serves as a reminder that Malta's ultimate blessing is also at times a curse – it lies in an idyllic location at a crossroads between continents and faces huge pressures because of that.

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It takes strength of character to deal with those pressures, and determination to preserve the beauty and unique qualities of the islands while facing up to the reality of sharing them with others.

If any nation has the qualities required it would seem to be modern Malta – the George Cross island which rightly wears its medal with pride.

WHERE TO STAY

Saga Holidays offer seven-to-21-night breaks in the all-inclusive Coastline Hotel, with prices starting from 704, including return flights from Manchester and East Midlands Airports. Flights are also available from Birmingham, Heathrow and Gatwick.

The Coastline is exclusive to Saga guests and includes an indoor and outdoor pool and health club facilities. Two excursions are included in the price for a seven-night holiday, while four trips are included in a 14-night break.

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For younger travellers, Air Malta flies into Malta International Airport from 150 one-way, and hundreds of hotels can be found across Malta and Gozo.

Self-catering villas are also available through several companies.

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