Souking up the atmosphere

It may not be the drug-fuelled hippy mecca Crosby, Stills and Nash were headed for, but Marrakech is still a real trip. Whether you're dodging donkey carts in the Djemaa el Fna, bartering in the souks or boosting your blood sugar to dangerously high levels with gallons of mint tea, you are guaranteed sensory overload.

We visited the Moroccan city for four days – more than enough time to explore the sights and take a day trip into the Atlas mountains.

We stayed in a mid-range riad in the medina which, at about 40 a night for bed and breakfast, was more than reasonable. Riads are grand homes built around a cool central courtyard and range from basic family-run to top-of-the-range luxury. Hidden behind thick walls down deserted alleyways, they offer welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of Marrakech life. They'll even throw in a home-cooked meal with wine for about 20 and a traditional hammam and massage for 30. But don't be surprised if the woman serving you breakfast is the same one slathering you in palm soap in the afternoon.

Days out in Marrakech are all about history. From the Ben Youssef Medrassa, an Islamic college adorned with intricate carvings, to the sprawling El Badi palace with its resident nesting storks, there's always something to explore. For a bit of greenery, head to the Jardins Majorelle, an exotic garden with beautifully coloured walls and pottery, created by French artist Jacques Majorelle and later bought by fashion legend Yves Saint-Laurent.

Perhaps the most entertaining attraction of all is the Djemaa el Fna, the central square which is buzzing with activity. During the day you can shop, watch snake charmers at work or have your hands decorated with henna. But by night, the square transforms into a totally different experience. Moroccan families descend from the mountains dragging gas burners and trestle tables and set up mobile restaurants serving all kinds of local delights. It's the best fast food I've tasted and costs just a couple of pounds. It's no nonsense stuff so don't expect candles, crystal or silver service. But do expect a friendly welcome, a bit of banter and the best value meal you'll probably ever eat.

Then there is the entertainment. Berber OAPs playing one-stringed banjos. Belly dancers who, the guidebooks tell you, may or may not be transvestites. Children with drums and storytellers who enthrall the locals with their magical tales. Our particular favourite was a man playing a banjo and singing while balancing a live chicken on his head. His friends banged along on a variety of local drums, serenading two pigeons in a basket.

As a western tourist, expect to put your hand in your pocket when the collection tin comes round, but for the sake of a few pence here and there, it is well worth it. Though be warned, they may expect you to get up and dance, too.

If you are looking for a more upmarket dining experience, we loved Le Marrakchi restaurant just off the square. Lit by Moroccan lanterns, the restaurant is always heaving and the atmosphere is great. A two-course meal with wine will set you back about 10-20 per person and you might even get a belly dancing show thrown in, too. Though the real entertainment is gazing out of the huge picture windows at the hustle and bustle of the square below where harissa-scented smoke snakes into the night sky.

A tip for negotiating your way around the medina is to take a compass. We followed the guidebook maps to the letter and still spent 75 per cent of our time wandering aimlessly, searching in vain for a ruined palace or museum. But then, that's probably one of the best parts of the Marrakech experience. You get to see the locals going about their normal lives off the main tourist trails, stop off in local cafs and generally compose yourself before re-entering the fray. But if you have somewhere you really want to visit or are late for a dinner reservation, a compass will tell you if you're at least heading in the right direction. Or, for a couple of dirhams, a friendly local will guide you to your destination in a tenth of the time it would have taken you on your own. Though beware those who tell you an attraction is closed and offer to take you somewhere better instead. Check opening times before you set out to avoid this minor pitfall.

There's no denying it – Marrakech can be exhausting. So if you fancy a touch of luxury, you could try Richard Branson's own Morrocan hideaway. High in the Atlas mountains sits Kasbah Tamadot, a luxury property the tycoon reportedly bought for his parents. Unfortunately, we only dropped in for a visit on our way to a mountain hike, though I was secretly hoping we'd get stranded so we'd have to check in. If you are looking for a tranquil getaway, honeymoon or anniversary celebration, then this could be the place.

Populated by Brits and Brits alone, the Kasbah sits in beautiful landscaped gardens with views across the mountains. There is a spa with pool and hammam, plenty of places to relax, and an outdoor heated infinity pool with incredible views. There are even Berber tented suites with their own plunge pools and a three-bedroom master suite away from the main building.

Marrakech is a fascinating mix of ancient and modern. The medina has clearly changed little in hundreds of years – if you ignore the satellite dishes. But fans of Crosby, Stills and Nash will be pleased to know that along with the tagines, carpets and jewelled slippers, you can still buy a striped Djelleba you can wear at home.

FACTFILE

www.visitmorocco.org

www.royalairmaroc.com

www.atlas-blue.com

www.abta.com

www.holidaywizard.co.uk/countries/Morocco/

http://www.easyjet.com

http:// www.thomsonfly.com

http://www.ryanair.com