With a view to hulloo

Today, now that hunting has all but been eliminated in this country, he probably wouldn't be welcome in many establishments outside Cumbria.

But at The Pheasant Inn, at the top end of Bassenthwaite, he would still find a warm welcome – log fires, decent ale, fantastic food and first-rate service. In fact, he'd probably feel quite at home because rumour has it that the Calbeck farmer used to drop in for a tipple when he was out and about with his hounds in the 18th century. And bits of the place are probably much as he would have remembered.

The Pheasant was a farm before it became a hostelry in 1778, and after a pint or three in the bar, it's almost possible to picture Mr Peel holding court in the corner, surrounded by his fellow hunters and a couple of exhausted foxhounds. It's pleasantly (should that be pheasantly?) atmospheric, with the charm that can come with age. There can be few better spots to hunker down on a November evening and let the rain hurl itself into the nearby waters of Bassenthwaite Lake – the only lake in the Lake District (the others are meres or waters or tarns). It's a warm, welcoming oasis, devoid of piped music but full of good cheer.

That's why even though Bassenthwaite is a bit out on a limb as far as many visitors are concerned, The Pheasant Inn continues to flourish, not only as a hotel and eaterie but also as a base for exploring the northern end of one of England's busiest tourist spots.

Ten minutes down the road is Keswick and the delights of Derwentwater; 10 minutes the other way is Cockermouth, which, sadly, just a year ago, was devastated by floods.

The town, probably best known for its connections with the poet, William Wordsworth, and the Bounty mutineer Fletcher Christian, still attracts a few visitors, although it could do with a shot in the arm. Perhaps some inspired writer/TV director could come up with a long-running soap or comedy set in Cockermouth (similar, perhaps to Last of the Summer Wine, which transformed a sleepy Holmfirth, in West Yorkshire, into a tourist attraction).

Perhaps not. Leave Cockermouth to get on with its rebuilding. It still has character, and the fine Georgian house, on Main Street, where William Wordsworth was born. It's now owned by the National Trust.

Back at Bassenthwaite is the nest of a pair of ospreys. This year, some 30,000 people flocked to various vantage points to train telescopes and binoculars on the birds and their nestlings.

The latter have now flown south for the winter, with one of the fledglings tracked to Portugal and the other to Spain. No doubt Africa, and a warm winter, beckons.

The climate around Bassenthwaite (the Lake District's fourth largest body of water) will be a bit chillier. Although the long, ancient valley gets very little snow (that's normally reserved for the fells) it can hold cold mists and trap frosts, so anyone venturing there over the next few months should take plenty of warm clothes.

Wrap up well, take a few of the low-level walks, stroll through the abundant woodland, gaze lovingly towards the snow-coated tip of Skiddaw (coincidentally, the fourth-largest "mountain" in the Lake District) or try a bit of mountain biking; you don't have to go to extremes because there are numerous byways and tracks where the going is relatively easy.

That's the thing about the northern tip of the Lakes; it's a bit quieter than the honey pots of Bowness, Ambleside and even Coniston and yet it has just as much to offer.

If you really must bag a great height or two, Skiddaw is just across the lake and a picturesque drive to nearby Lorton opens up the whole of Crummock and Buttermere and their attendant fells.

Continue up the Honister Pass and stop at the slate mines where there's a whole load of entertainment on offer, from a guided tour underground to outdoor excitement on ropes and ladders.

Navigate down into Borrowdale to tackle the Bowder Stone, all 2,000 tonnes, and 30 foot high, which was carried into the valley by a glacier thousands of years ago.

After a quick look round the shops in Keswick, a walk to see the famous view from Friar's Crag (truly worth the little effort involved) you can make your way back to Bassenthwaite and The Pheasant.

In autumn, the woodlands are filled with sound of leaves floating earthwards; jays and smaller birds singing and squawking; even red squirrels foraging for food. If you're lucky, you'll perhaps spot a deer; they are there, but they are elusive.

Then here's to John Peel with my heart and soul

Come fill – fill to him another strong bowl,

And we'll follow John Peel through fair and through foul

While we're waked by his horn in the morning.

The Pheasant Inn, Bassenthwaite Lake, near Cockermouth, Cumbria CA13 9YE. (0)17687 76234, [email protected], www.the-pheasant.co.uk

www.ospreywatch.co.uk

www.honister-slate-mine.co.uk

THE INN CROWD

The historic Pheasant Inn has recently impressed judges in a major hotel awards scheme.

The Pheasant was voted joint runner-up in Conde Nast Johansens' Most Excellent Inn Awards for 2010. It won the title in 2008.

Conde Nast Johansens is a leading, independent organisation which

sources hotels, spas and venues for leisure and business travellers in the UK, Europe and the Americas.

Each hotel is approved for recommendation following an

annual inspection by a member of its team.