Westside stories

Accustomed to scrabbling around for a bit of space to call our own on crowded Mediterranean beaches, it was hard to take in the vast expanse of golden sand on our arrival in the Vendee, western France.

What a joy to have so much open space to spread out and be able to kick a ball with the children without worrying about disturbing sunbathers. With five miles of fine, golden sands, our holiday destination – the pretty market town of St Jean de Monts – has one of the longest beaches in western France.

We took the overnight crossing from Portsmouth to Caen, tucked up in a

cosy cabin, before a four-hour drive in the people carrier – packed with all we would need for the week ahead – through exquisite French countryside. Our base was a holiday home, or static caravan, at the Bois Dormant, one of two Siblu-owned holiday parks in the town.

Thanks to its own balmy microclimate, The Vendee is drenched in sunshine for much of the summer. With 2,500 hours of sunshine a year, the weather in the region is similar to the pricier and more distant Cote D'Azur. Temperatures in June average 23C, peak at 27C in July and still feel comfortable in September (24C).

A paradise for water sports, the beaches can at times be a little too

breezy – so take an extra layer of clothes and plenty of towels as drying off in the sun after a dip can be tricky in a wind. From October to May, as with many European destinations, it can be considerably cooler.

We went in August: it was baking hot and the cool air coming off the Atlantic Ocean provided welcome breezes during long, lazy afternoons on the beach. When the children tired of building sandcastles and jumping the waves, we discovered the region had so much to see.

The tranquillity and lack of crowds, a welcome contrast to the mayhem of city life back home, makes it a haven for families – even during the summer holidays. A truly unmissable highlight for us was Puy Du Fou, a spectacular theme park in 100 acres of woodland which captivates visitors with re-enactments of some of the most dramatic aspects of French history – mesmerising for both adults and children.

It promotes itself as a medieval theme park where you relive 2,000 years of French history. A visual delight, most gripping of all for us was the reconstruction of a Franco-Roman coliseum, complete with gladiatorial combat – and real lions prowling around just feet from the open-mouthed audience.

Puy Du Fou is in Les Epesses, a little isolated but definitely worth

the drive. And if you enjoy getting up close and personal with wild

animals, Planete Sauvage safari park in Port Saint-Pere (www.planete

sauvage.com) is a "must see" too. In keeping with the relaxed French attitude, passengers think nothing of sticking their heads out of car windows to take photographs of lions, tigers and cheetahs basking in the sun – just pouncing distance away.

Further along the path, zebras nosed their way through open windows in search of snacks. With a notable absence of warnings not to feed the animals, visitors readily oblige. Also well worth a visit is the isle of Noirmoutier or "black monk"island. Noirmoutier is linked to the mainland by a road bridge, but braver souls take the Passage du Gois – a traditional road entirely submerged at high tide.

A spectacle not to be missed in June is the Great Gois Run – an annual event in which foolhardy locals race the tide on the Passage du Gois. At other times, the three-mile trip over the tidal causeway, with locals on every sandbank collecting mussels, will add a little beauty and excitement to your life. However, check the time of the tides so you don't come unstuck. Once safely on Noirmoutier, another highlight for us was the Sealand Aquarium in Le Vieux Port where ball-balancing sea lions kept our little ones enthralled.

In July and August, La Deferlante, a festival of art and music, sweeps through St Jean de Monts. Highlights include spectacular fireworks displays which light up the sky above the vast sands, and Cinete – a giant screen on the beach showing free arty films. When the holidaymakers depart at the end of the summer, the towns, beaches and tourist attractions are all but deserted.

Indulgence in the local produce is, of course, a must on any trip to France, and the Vendee has its own special delicacies.

Delicious seafood is baked to perfection in the local restaurants in garlic and herbs. It is also available to buy and cook, as we did, on our barbecue. Mogettes, a special type of bean eaten with a knob of butter, is a tasty accompaniment to meat dishes. Our days invariably began with breakfasts based on delicious local brioche – a soft, melt-in-the-mouth bread sweetened with brandy or orange flower water.

While holiday parks may not be the first choice for those without children, the one we stayed in made the perfect base. With two swimming pools, tennis courts, an outdoor play area, a children's club and family entertainment in the evenings, we didn't need to travel far to keep the young ones amused. There was also plenty of space to ride bikes around the park and very little traffic, a huge boon for nervy cyclists. Days began at a leisurely pace, with one parent keeping them amused while the other prepared a picnic.

The St Jean de Monts market on Wednesday and Saturday mornings is

a must for anyone who loves food and fine wine on a budget.

And for those of us who really like to unwind on holiday, Le Bois Masson – the Siblu holiday park across the road from Le Bois Dormant – has a luxurious spa, offering everything from waxing to facials and massage. More closely associated with five-star hotels than holiday parks, the health and wellbeing spa is a welcome addition for parents who want all the advantages of fun pools and play areas but appreciate the occasional joys of peace and pampering. It's a welcome option for parents – on those days when the children don't demand another adventure.

FACTFILE

Helen Carroll was a guest of Siblu, which offers seven nights' self-catering in a two-bedroom holiday home at Le Bois Dormant from 1,325 (saving 117 on the brochure price) from July 31. Siblu reservations: call 0871 911 7777 and visit www.siblu.com. Siblu's own EuroVoucher for use on parc has a guaranteed exchange rate of 1.25 euros to 1.

Brittany Ferries sails direct to popular holiday regions of western France – saving miles of driving, fuel costs, tolls and overnight stops. Return Portsmouth-Caen fares start in July 2010 from 360 for car and family of four. Brittany Ferries reservations: call 0871 244 1400 and visit www.brittanyferries.com For specific information, visit www.puydufou.com and

www.planetesauvage.com

YP MAG 26/6/10