Breaking free of chains and why independent restaurants matter

Twenty five years ago if you walked through just about any bustling town or city centre you would have struggled to find anywhere decent to eat, other than the ubiquitous fast food joints.

Now you can’t move for them. We Britons have always liked our food and in recent times eating out has become something of a national pastime, driven by the rise of TV cookery shows, celebrity chefs and a seemingly insatiable appetite for new trends that has seen the rise of everything from sushi bars to virtual reality dining.

Even the French, who once jokingly referred to us as les rosbifs to mock our sole kitchen technique, have grudgingly come to acknowledge our culinary standing in the world.

This foodie revolution has led to a dramatic upsurge in the number of restaurants and coffee shops opening up all over the country. According to a study published in March there were 166 independent restaurants in Sheffield in 2016 – an increase of 8.5 per cent on two years earlier.

But, given the growing choice people have now, how sustainable is this restaurant boom?

Paul Rawlinson is the director of Norse in Harrogate, and owns Baltzersen’s, a popular cafe also in the spa town. Norse opened three years ago since when it has garnered great acclaim from punters and food critics such as Jay Rayner.

Paul is a prominent advocate of independent businesses and has used his online blog to raise awareness of the issue, pointing out that two independents in the hospitality business closed in the space of a week in Harrogate last month.

Speaking to The Yorkshire Post he said: “There seems a trend of independents closing down and businesses being squeezed and talking to friends and colleagues it’s getting harder. One indie business seems to open as another one closes but at the same time it feels like there’s a never ending flow of chains.

“I feel we are in danger of sleepwalking into a situation where in a couple of years time we may not have many independents left and people will say, ‘why has this happened?’”

Chain restaurants can give kudos to a town and help create jobs and in Harrogate the likes of Jamie’s Italian, Ask, Byron Burgers and Yo Sushi! have all opened in recent years. “It’s very easy to end up in a chain. I just want people to make a more conscious decision and if you like independent shops and restaurants then make sure you use them,” says Paul.

“There are times when we go to supermarkets and chain restaurants and there’s nothing wrong with that, but we can all make a choice to walk that extra hundred yards to go to an independent for a coffee or something to eat.”

He believes independent restaurants and shops offer something unique to a town or city. “In my opinion the chains don’t add to the experience of a visitor in the town. People don’t come to Harrogate from Leeds or York to go to Jamie’s Italian, because they have one in their own city. But good independents bring people into their shop or restaurant and they then visit other indies in the town.”

He feels the increasing number of chain restaurants makes it harder for the independents to compete. “It’s difficult because chains have huge buying power which means their costs tend to be lower and they often get better deals on rent.

“It’s really challenging. Last summer all these new restaurants opened in Harrogate, I think six opened in June alone, and it’s inevitable that people want to try them out. You just hope that they come back and visit you because it puts a big dent in your business.”

Having more restaurants also impacts on the labour market. But even though independent restaurants can’t always match the big chains when it comes to wages, Paul believes they can offer something different. “You have to create a place where people want to work, and independents can offer a more creative environment for chefs because you aren’t just doing the same menus, so you’re learning all the time.”

However, he doesn’t blame the chains or local councils for the problem. “I think it lies with business owners – we need to make ourselves more competitive. As a community we have to work together to promote each other and help one another. They do that well in Leeds and York and it’s something Harrogate can do better. There are pockets of independents doing this, we just need to bring those strands together.”

He says it boils down to what we want our town centres to look like. “If we want them to be full of chains then so be it, just as long as that’s what people really want and it isn’t an accident that we’ll come to regret.”

Just as the food scene has changed dramatically in Harrogate so it has over in York, too.

Clarrie O’Callaghan owns The Rattle Owl, on Micklegate, having opened the restaurant back in October 2015. She says it’s harder for smaller restaurants to get the best locations because of the high costs.

“Most independent restaurants in York are on the lesser known streets where the rent is cheaper, rather than in the centre of town.

“This is fine at weekends but during the week when people visit York they tend to stick to the main streets. They go to the chains because they’re convenient and they know what they’re going to get.”

Micklegate is now home to a clutch of independent restaurants and coffee houses, including the likes of Skosh, Partisan, Your Bike Shed and Gulp & Graze.

“There’s been a few new places opening on the street in the last couple of years because they can’t compete with the big names in the city centre where you have some incredibly expensive real estate,” she says.

“The tricky thing for independents is dealing with hikes in rent and other costs as well as competing with chains.”

Not that she’s out to knock popular high street restaurants. “I don’t begrudge chains, I think they’re a necessity in many ways. If you’ve got a hungry child you want to be able to go somewhere where you know you can get something decent to eat.”

She says it’s more about raising the profile of the independent restaurants. “The independents here are loved by locals and by people who are prepared to go and find and support them. But during the summer months when they’re away on holiday it can be hard.”

There are schemes in place to boost the profile of the city’s independent sector including the Micklegate Business Initiative, which The Rattle Owl is part of, and Indie York which has produced a map pinpointing the city’s indie businesses.

“Independents can do things a bit differently, they don’t have to follow a formula. They have a strong identity and people like that and appreciate that,” says Clarrie. “It’s just about ensuring that people from outside York who come to visit this beautiful city know about these places too.”

Independents face a tall order

Stephanie Moon, Chef Consultant at Rudding Park, in North Yorkshire, says independent restaurant owners have a tough job. “They are often the head chef, the manager, the person who orders the supplies and the one in charge of all the staff. You have to be the best you can be all the time, there’s no let up,” she says.

However, the acclaimed chef says independent restaurants play a ‘vital’ role. “People like variety and I think independents offer that. I think good restaurants will always shine and adapt and overcome the challenges. The difficulty is there are so many places to eat and there are only so many people to eat in them.”

Nevertheless, she feels Yorkshire’s culinary landscape is in fine fettle. “There’s such a buzz with food, now more than ever.”