How oldest jet shop in Whitby is celebrating Britain's famous gemstone

W Hamond is the oldest jet shop in Whitby and as it celebrates its 160th anniversary, Sarah Freeman discovers how the black stuff has now caught the eye of Fabergé.
Faberg has collaborated with the shop.Faberg has collaborated with the shop.
Faberg has collaborated with the shop.

Daytrippers to Whitby rarely miss the chance to do a bit of window shopping at W Hamond. The shop has been trading in the town’s famous jet since the mid 19th century and as one of the last stops before the 199 steps leading to the abbey, it has become both a convenient resting place and a tourist attraction in its own right.

While some visitors leave with a souvenir of their own, the rest come to admire the jeweller’s landmark pieces. There’s an intricate spider’s web, which has had a few red carpet outings, and a cabinet of carved Victorian brooches and necklaces – a nod to its original popularity as mourning jewellery. Recently those historic pieces have been joined by something smaller, but no less intricate – a collaboration with Fabergé celebrating Britain’s famous gemstone.

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“It’s beautiful isn’t it,” says jewellery designer Rebecca Tucker, holding one of the company’s trademark eggs. Outside it is emerald green; inside it houses a miniature version of Whitby Abbey cast in gold sitting on a perfectly polished piece of jet from just a few miles down the road.

W Hamond is the oldest jet shop in Whitby.W Hamond is the oldest jet shop in Whitby.
W Hamond is the oldest jet shop in Whitby.

“Fabergé rarely collaborates with other jewellers, but they were really keen to do something which showcased jet and when we told them that this was our 160th year there seemed no better time to do it.

“They have been brilliant to work with and we couldn’t be more pleased with the end result. The abbey was carved initially in wax at our studio in Derbyshire and we produced all of the jet elements right here in Whitby. They really are things of beauty.”

Just three of the eggs have been made and each one will set you back an eye-watering £48,000. Pendants featuring jet eggs, encrusted in diamond, come in at just over £4,000, but for collectors of the famous brand, which can trace its roots back to late 19th century Russia, money really is no object.

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“We began taking pre-orders in December, but the whole range has only just been launched and the response has been incredible,” says Rebecca. “This is the first time Fabergé has made pieces using jet, but our heritage is a good fit for them and our commitment to first class craftsmanship has really dovetailed with their philosophy.”

Careful study: Rebecca Tucker examines pieces of jet and jewellery in the shops workshop. Photo: Simon HulmeCareful study: Rebecca Tucker examines pieces of jet and jewellery in the shops workshop. Photo: Simon Hulme
Careful study: Rebecca Tucker examines pieces of jet and jewellery in the shops workshop. Photo: Simon Hulme
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The launch of the Fabergé range was supposed to be the focal point of a series of anniversary events throughout the year. While those plans have been shelved as the town adjusts to social distancing, Rebecca managed to work throughout lockdown and since the shop, which is now part of CW Sellors family jewellers, reopened in July it has been as busy as ever.

“I have been living in Whitby for 10 years and in all that time I don’t think I have ever seen the streets quiet; not even on a freezing day in winter. When lockdown happened it was very eerie, but for everyone who lives here it was a chance to see the town in a whole new light.

“For me, it was also an opportunity to catch up on some projects that I’ve been meaning to do for months, but just haven’t got round to. It felt like the pause button had been pressed.”

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One of those projects was the creation of a casing for a statement brooch featuring a cameo of Whitby abbey carved from shell in Italy. It looks not unlike some of the early mourning pieces which were made popular by Queen Victoria following the death of her husband Prince Albert.

When W Hamond first opened its doors, it capitalised on the fashion for elaborate displays of grief, with the wealthy newly widowed following in the monarch’s wake by displaying their heartache in the jet jewellery they wore.

However, while death may have been the source of the gemstone’s original popularity, the store’s bestselling items now have international appeal and less morbid associations.

“Whitby is a special place for a lot of couples,” adds Rebecca. “I have no idea how many proposals happen here, but it’s a lot and a few years ago we noticed that we were getting people popping in asking if we did jet engagement and wedding rings.

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“We didn’t, but it got us thinking that we should. One of the great things about working here is that we are given a lot of creative freedom to try things out. We made an initial range of engagement rings and immediately we found a whole new customer base.”

In recent years international markets for Whitby jet have also been growing. Thanks in part to the Downton Abbey effect which sparked a surge for all things traditionally English, jet jewellery has become particularly popular in the US.

Rebecca was due to fly out to America again this summer to represent Whitby jet at an international gem conference. The first time she went it resulted in a deal for 3,000 pieces, but with travel also a casualty of the coronavirus pandemic it will be next year at the earliest before she can return.

Between now and then she can be found most days in the in-store workshop, repairing historic pieces of jewellery and creating brand new ranges for the shop.

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She relies on a small army of beachcombers to keep her supplied with jet and with demand growing so is the cost of the gemstone, which is formed from fossilised monkey puzzle trees more than 180 million years ago.

“The jet seam runs right along this part of the Yorkshire coast. At Whitby it is actually under the sea, so the best deposits tend to be found at Sandsend. In the 19th century jet mining was a big industry round here, but it was incredibly dangerous and it was eventually made illegal.

“Now we rely on people finding natural deposits, so the best time to go scouting for jet is after a bout of stormy weather when the seam has been disturbed.”

Originally from Holmfirth, Rebecca moved back to Yorkshire after training at the Birmingham School of Jewellery and two years ago helped to launch the Museum of Whitby Jet, just a few doors down from the shop.

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Housed in an old Wesleyan Chapel in the shadow of the famous abbey, the museum reopened on Yorkshire Day and it is a small but perfectly formed journey through the history of the gemstone with cabinets filled with curiosities.

At the height of jet’s popularity in the 1870s, in Whitby there were 1,700 people employed in the industry and 200 workshops making and selling jewellery.

When it fell out of fashion, many of those workshops were wiped out overnight and the town had to rely on its other major industry – fishing – to save the local economy.

In recent decades tourism has outstripped traditional industry as the biggest employer and among those crowds who head to the birthplace of Bram Stoker’s Dracula jet has found another niche market.

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“The twice-yearly Whitby Goth Weekend has been huge for the town; it really does transform the place. Because of its colour, jet tends to be the gemstone of choice for goths and last year we sponsored the event. The April festival was obviously cancelled, but we are all now keeping our fingers crossed that the October weekend can go ahead in some shape or form.”

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