Andes handy for growers

While Argentina grumbles once again about the Malvinas, perhaps it is worth switching our taste for South American wines across the Andes to Chile which acts as a more friendly neighbour to those little British islands in the South Atlantic.

Chile swept onto the wine shelves two decades ago with positive flavours and great value prices. This long skinny country spans so many climate zones that it can grow a wide range of grapes from crisp Sauvignons to big, gutsy Shiraz. The wide fertile valleys can provide big blends from massive vineyards but there are small pockets of vines on rocky hillsides and in coastal locations where the wines develop more finesse and can stand shoulder to shoulder with some of the best wines in the world.

The fact that Chile has an ever-present supply of irrigation water sitting on top of the Andes as snow means that vines can be kept in balance throughout the growing season while the high-UV sunshine ripens the grapes to perfection, giving deep colours and bags of flavour.

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In any Southern hemisphere country which has its head in the tropics and its feet in the icy waters of Antarctica you might expect the temperatures to rise as you move north, but Chile is a land where the effect of altitude and the sea can turn such logic on its head.

Some of the most pungent, vibrant Sauvignons are made in the far north of the country in Elqui where altitudes of 2000 metres provide a cool climate. Moving south the vineyards of Limarí are surrounded by desert but the blustery winds from the sea means that this region is also cool, especially at night. Drive south for several hours and you come to Aconcagua, essentially warm inland, but with a direct line through to the coast and its cool breezes. Nearby is the Casablanca valley which fills up with coastal fog each morning, and this also keeps temperatures down. Leyda is right next door and this has a cool climate with some gloriously warm slopes suitable for Pinot and even Malbec.

Encircling the capital Santiago, Maipo is the original heartland of the Chilean wine industry with key quality areas such as Alto Maipo producing top quality wines, but many producers have spread their vineyards south to the warm slopes of Colchagua which produces seriously good wines. Head south again, and the regions of Curicó and Maule act as the powerhouse of the industry. South again to Bío Bío where the temperatures really start to drop, this region is becoming known as the centre for pure elegant Rieslings and Pinots.

I recently tasted through a whole range of Chilean wines, so if you haven’t moved much beyond the big brands that hog the ends of the aisles, here is my choice of what to go for.

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Sparkling wine: Undurraga Brut Rosé, Maipo (Majestic normally £8.99, down to £6.99 on multibuy). Made from 100% Pinot Noir this is a terrific value fizz with strawberry fruit and a crisp finish. Perfect for springtime sipping.

Casillero del Diablo Brut Sparkling Chardonnay (£9.99 Waitrose) comes from the cool Limarí valley and musters delicious toasty notes with clean, clear, citrus fruit.

Sauvignon Blanc and Gris: Taste the Difference Chilean Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (£5.99 Sainsbury). The grapes come from the Errazuriz vineyards in Casablanca and the wine shines with super crisp pineapple fruit and it has enough weight to stand up against grilled fish or a crayfish salad.

Secano Sauvignon Gris 2010, (£8.99 Marks and Spencer) Sauvignon Gris is a pink-skinned version of Sauvignon Blanc with less obvious aromatics but rather more silky texture and weight. This has soft, fresh-tasting herbaceous flavours with a long, crunchy finish.

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Chardonnay: Tabalí Reserva Especial Chardonnay 2010, Limarí, (£9.99 Majestic on multibuy). None of us like too much oak in our chardonnay but this one is so gently oaked it barely shows above the fabulous creamy, minerally-streaked, orange peel and apple fruit. Team this with anything fishy or with chicken.

Errazuriz Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2010, Casablanca, (£10 Majestic, also available at some branches of The Co-op)). Consistently good, this wine has been allowed to ferment with the collection of yeasts that occur in the vineyard. The result is greater complexity with a silky, food-friendly texture.

Pinot Noir: Tierra y Hombre Pinot Noir 2010, Casablanca, (£7.99 Marks and Spencer). It is possible to spend a lot more on Chilean Pinot but this one marries depth of flavour with great value for money. It comes from the dramatically beautiful Vina Indomita which perches on a hill overlooking the Casablanca valley.

Amayna Pinot Noir 2008, Leyda (£17.95 Halifax Wine Co). Deep, black cherry fruit with touches of vanilla and spice make this Pinot worth its price. Open and decant it an hour before serving and wait for it to open up and show some complexity.

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Carmenère: Anakena Single Vineyard Carmenère 2009, (£7.99 Chez Vin, Ilkley). Carmenère is the French grape variety that was mislabelled on its journey to Chile and was mistakenly called merlot for decades. Now it ripens fully to show its big plummy fruit with spicy overtones. This version is terrific value and well worth the detour to Ilkley.

Terrunyo Carmenère 2008, (£14 Penistone Wine Cellars) Made from selected blocks of vines to deliver deep and complex flavours, this is a wine to save for a weekend roast.

Cabernet Sauvignon: Casillero del Diablo Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 (£7.79 Waitrose, down to £5.84 from 22 February to 20 March). Wait for the special offer to come round on this wine and stock up with enough to see you through the winter months. With warm, ripe blackcurrant fruit and supple tannins, it will happily team up with pasta and steak.

Los Vascos Grande Reserva 2009, (£10.99 Bon Coeur Fine Wine). Owned by the Rothchilds who also own Lafite, the wine from this estate has improved dramatically in recent years. Now with clear black cherry and blackcurrant aromas with a sprinkle of bay leaf and clove the structure is ripe but firm enough to accompany a roast rib of beef.

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Syrah: Falernia Syrah 2006, Elqui, (£11.90, Field and Fawcett). From the far north of Chile’s vineyard area, this is a Rhone-style Syrah with peppery red fruits, spice and mint chocolate notes.

Casa Lapostolle ‘Cuvée Alexandre’ Syrah 2009, Cachapoal (£14.99 Majestic on multibuy). From Apalta which is one of the best hillsides in the region this is a deep, plum and chocolate wine with hints of spice, tobacco and a long, long finish.