Christmas corkers

And this year the treat is a bottle of fizz to boost our spirits and excite our tastebuds. Champagne is the fizz of choice for many, but it doesn't have to be; there are plenty of good sparkling wines from Spain and elsewhere, giving excellent flavours and in some cases a lot better value. As always there are shelves full of half-price offers, some of them worth their full price but many masquerading as great value but in fact hiding thin acidic wines. Here is my Christmas selection of best buys.

Under 10

In previous years there has always been one champagne which has managed to limbo under the 10 barrier, even if the flavours were awful, but this year duty increases and the decline of the pound mean that sub-10 deals are all on sparkling wines, but don't let that put you off.

Lindauer Special Reserve Brut Cuve, Waitrose down from 10.99 to 8.99 until January 4: Value rating: 10

Who cares that this soft, creamy raspberry-edged New Zealand sparkler isn't champagne? Made from the classic combination of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, it has soft, raspberry-edged fruit and a terrific balance of flavours, with an elegant, long toasty finish. Give me this anytime instead of a cheap champagne. There is a hint of pink, which is even better.

Sainsbury Taste the Difference Cava, 6.99: Value rating: 9

Cava used to be thought of as downmarket, but no more; this one has class well above its price point and is good enough to be poured at a Friday night party. It doesn't have that earthy taste that some cavas have, just light, nutty complexity and a good, balanced finish.

Tesco Finest Bisol Prosecco DOC, down from 9.99 to 8 until January 4: Value rating: 8

Prosecco has moved up the quality scale in the last two years and it shows in the soft, creamy floral fruit of this wine. Not as sweet as some – rather a room-pleaser.

Cava Prestige Brut, Marks and Spencer, 7.99 a bottle, 2 for 12: Value rating: 6

A good style with some fruit and nutty depth but it falls down on the finish.

Undurraga Brut NV, Chile, Majestic, down from 9.99 to 6.66 on multibuy: Value rating: 5

This wine is trying hard to be complex and toasty but it just misses and instead captures the flavours of old oxidised apples.

10 to 15

BEST BUY – Louis Chaurey Champagne NV, Marks and Spencer down from 30 to 15 until January 31: Value rating: 10

Tasted at the M&S tasting this autumn, this champagne stood out for its concentration and meaty, yeasty complexity, but its full price was way too high. Now re-tasted at half price it offers good depth of flavour and layers of toasty fruit.

Sainsbury Blanc de Blancs Champagne NV, down from 16.99 to 14.99 until January 4: Value rating: 8

I like the fact that this champagne is the regular quality fizz, with just a small price reduction for the season. There are good flavours here – crisp apples and pear fruit with a touch of toasty brioche and an elegant finish. Good for Christmas Eve.

Tesco Finest Premier Cru Champagne, down from 19.49 to two bottles for 25: Value rating: 7

An astonishing price for such a good well-made, mature style of fizz, but just slightly pipped in the quality stakes.

Etienne Dumont Brut Champagne NV, Sainsbury Down from 27.99 to 13.99 until December 24: Value rating: 3

Over-priced to begin with, even at half-price it fails to find its comfort zone. It starts off well with a good creamy mousse then moves towards dusty blotting paper.

15 to 20

Canard-Duchne 2004 Brut Millesime, Majestic, down from 30 to 19: Value rating: 9

This is a brand that has been below the radar for a number of years but suddenly seems to have perked up in quality. This vintage wine won a Silver medal in the International Wine Challenge and packs generous flavours, elegant structure and a long finish – all for a bargain price.

Canard-Duchne Brut, Majestic, down from 25 to 18 until January 31: Value rating: 8

Just 1 cheaper than the above, so probably not worth scrimping on, but still an excellent champagne, if the vintage wine has sold out.

Morrisons Brut Champagne NV, 19.49: Value rating: 7

A new launch from Morrisons and certainly good quality, with depth of flavour and finesse, but challenged against the other offers.

J de Telmont Grande Reserve, Majestic down from 24 to 16 until January 31: Value rating: 6

Good yeasty nose but disjointed on the palate, ending as flat as Christmas Day with the in-laws.

French Connection Brut Champagne, Morrisons, down from 25.99 to 15.99 until January 2: Value rating: 5

Certainly out-classed by others at its full price and even challenged at the offer price, this has more acidity than is good for the digestion.

Louis Dubrince Brut Classique Champagne, Morrisons down from 26.99 to 16.99 until January 2: Value rating: 5

Another great package that looks the part, but fails to deliver.

20 to 25

Pol Roger Reserve NV, Majestic down from 35 to 25 until January 31: Value rating:10

This is a lovely champagne, clean as a whistle, with an exhilarating balance between fruit and substance. I could drink it all day, but it is perfect for present-opening time on Christmas Day. This is the cheapest I have seen Pol for a long time, so stock up.

Waitrose Vintage Special Reserve 2002, down from 27.99 to 22.99 until January 4: Value rating: 8

This is a substantial step up in quality from all the other own label champagnes and is well worth the offer price. With

deep flavours and soft complexity, it could take you though from lunch until supper-time.

YP MAG 18/12/10