Drinking in city charms

Bordeaux is so much more than red wine, it is a whole region of France, producing a huge range of styles of wine from crisp, dry whites, though to top-notch reds, with a delicious diversion to some of the best sweet wines in the world. It is a region of grand chteaux, of sleepy stone-built villages, of rivers and castles. But more than that it is a city which has turned itself around and has emerged as one of the chicest, most visitor-friendly cities in the world.

I have been visiting Bordeaux for decades and for several years I hardly saw the river. Hidden behind ugly warehouses that hugged the dockside, these were a reminder of the old days when ships tied up right in the heart of the city to take the wine on board. And that's how it remained, even when the ships stopped coming and containerised transport took over. The heart of the city was dirty, run-down and depressing.

But then, led by the Mayor of Bordeaux Alain Jupp, they started to invest money in the city – which caused chaos at first. A new road was built, then a new tramway. The opera house was restored and the big old hotel opposite was transformed from run-down to five-star. It took years and the traffic problems were horrendous. But suddenly the roadworks cleared and it was possible to see that this famous city of wine had sloughed off years of grime and emerged with fabulous structure and a great style. So much that it is now a UNESCO World Heritage city. One of the biggest changes has been to the feel of the city. The tram system works without overhead wires and they have planted grass between the tracks so it is clean and uncluttered. The vista to the river has been opened up so you can walk alongside the Garonne, taking in splendid views of the Customs House and the elegant Pont de Pierre. Just across the road is a large, shallow rectangle of water, the Miroir d'Eau, which is a popular attraction for small children during the day, but in the still of the evening it transforms into a mirror, reflecting the grand buildings of the Place de la Bourse.

Above all, the city feels safe. I recently went to the Fte de Bordeaux, a weekend wine festival which stretches alongside the river, with booths offering tastes of wine from all the various appellations of the region. There were food stalls, wine and food matching events, jazz concerts, light shows and quite possibly the best fireworks display I have ever seen. At midnight I found myself in the middle of a throng of people, all of whom had probably been drinking all day. In London, or even Leeds I might have been worried for my own safety, but this was Bordeaux. This was an orderly, quiet, happy mass of families and people of all ages, gently wending their way home. There was a police presence in a chic, sitting-on-motorbikes fashion, but they just stopped the cars from moving as we all meandered along the main roads.

Shopping and restaurants are all good in Bordeaux, and if you want to sightsee by pedal-power there are bicycles to rent by the hour close to all the tram stops. But the main attraction of Bordeaux is wine and a stay in the city allows you to experience the diversity of the region's vineyards and wines. If you arrive without any plans then your first port of call should be the Tourist office in the city centre (www.bordeaux-tourisme.com) where you can talk through a few ideas with English-speaking guides. The options range from a simple wine tasting across the road in the wine bar operated by the CIVB, which is the promotional organisation for Bordeaux wines, to full day excursions taking in several chteaux. They can also help you plan your own route through the vineyards and will point out which properties are open to visitors that day.

There is also the Bordeaux Wine School (www.bordeaux.com/ecole-du-vin) which is a highly professional place to learn about wine. Courses range from a two-hour introduction to a three-day intensive look at the Grands Crus of the region with trips out to chteaux. Contact the school to find out which of the courses are run in English.

Of course you could just explore the region on your own and that is one of the great joys of Bordeaux. On my last trip I headed to the beautiful Ch. Guiraud in Sauternes (www.chateau-guiraud.fr) to visit their cellars and taste their luscious sweet wines. They are open to visitors every day, but if you book in advance you can join one of their botanic walks around the vineyard to learn more about the vineyards and their work to maintain biodiversity within the estate. I also called in at Les Sources de Caudalie right opposite Ch. Smith Haut Lafitte in the wine region of Pessac-Lognan (www.smith-haut-lafitte.com) where I had a terrific, but essentially casual bistro lunch in L'Auberge de la Table du Lavoir. On this visit there wasn't time to visit the spa but on previous trips I have wallowed in their Vinotherapy spa where I was massaged with grape skins and indulged in a barrel bath.

One of my favourite visits in the Bordeaux region is the beautiful town of St Emilion which sits on a hill about an hour's drive from the city of Bordeaux. This is a terrific excursion, and there are organised trips available from Bordeaux, but I suggest you pick up a car and head there on your own. The tourist office in the middle of the town will tell you which properties are open that day and St Emilion is friendly, welcoming and their wines are fantastic. You should definitely visit the underground church which is carved out of the limestone rock with only the spire emerging from the ground.

There are several events happening in Bordeaux and its surrounding areas in the next few months. Today the Tour de France passes through the vineyards of the Mdoc, and that is where the Marathon de Mdoc is run. This is possibly the only marathon where you can drink wine as well as water at the refreshment stations.

In September, the Ban de Vendanges in St Emilion marks a spectacular start to the harvest while harvest workshops run by Les Medocaines (www.lesmedocaines. com) will give you a chance to pick grapes, enjoy a harvester's lunch and learn about winemaking.

YP MAG 24/7/10