East Bar Lounge and Grill, Pudsey

Not that the passer-by is likely to notice the architecture.

Attention is grabbed by the name "East" in very large letters and the equally large banners proclaiming its record of award-winning ways.

One award is for 2008 and another for 2009, and if room can be found for it, no doubt a third will soon appear announcing that in the recently-announced results

of the Leeds Restaurants' Association annual awards, East Bar Lounge and Grill was named Best Indian and Best Family.

Despite that initial – fleeting – impression of having some history, the building is not more than a couple of years old and was designed to have a snack bar and restaurant on the ground floor and three lounge bars on the first. The dcor in black, grey and white, is sharp and modern, the polished wood stairs have inlaid brass scrolls and overhead lights are encased in glinting bands forming spectacular spheres.

And so it was that East burst upon the scene. The place has panache, and on the Friday night I ate there the sense of something big and exciting going on was such that I had no doubt there was. It was still quite early in the evening, but the party was already in full swing, and it was very much a family affair.

Groups, we were told, were expected, and by-and-by helium balloons were tethered to the tables where people would soon be celebrating, and from our raised part of the dining area we looked over a balustrade down on tables at which were children, teens, parents,

and grandparents.

Some of those grandparents, I supposed, would have gone with their grandparents when celebrating a family anniversary for fish and chips at Harry Ramsden's, or perhaps roast beef and Yorkshires in a hotel restaurant with silver service and linen napkins and the children having to whisper.

Times change. Now it's an Indian at East, and there's no whispering. We were seated just below a hidden loud speaker, and the music being played through it meant there'd be no whispering at our table either. Few people, I thought, would choose this restaurant to sit in for an intimate tte--tte – though upstairs in one of the lounge bars, they might. We mentioned to a waiter – and at East the ratio of staff to diners seems to be in the order of one to every 10 – that we might need to move somewhere quieter but he said that a pianist would soon be playing.

He was right, and we were surprised to hear a French accent when the pianist introduced himself and his first contribution – an accompaniment to "Happy Birthday" being sung with gusto by a party near the window.

He was from Paris, he said; his playing could barely be heard across the hubbub of voices, but I thought I detected a hint of modern jazz. Hearing a pianist from Paris playing jazz in an Indian restaurant in Pudsey struck me as pleasingly peculiar. The service was prompt, enthusiastic and friendly. Success has a way of enlivening staff and East not only looks and feels successful – it clearly is.

Papadums and a comprehensive pickle tray (both complimentary) arrived promptly, as did the starters which were as good as we have had. The plump chicken wings were succulent and excellently spiced, but better still was

the outstanding Machkli tikka, soft fish fillets beneath a sensational Cheese-based coating.

East has won an award – another one – for its starters, and on this showing, deservedly so. The bar was now set very high, but two of our main courses fell well below it. We had a keema (minced meat) achari from the Specialities list, a karahi fish, and by special request – it wasn't on the menu – a karahi vegetable sabzi. The achari was overwhelmed by lime pickle. The recipe I am familiar with has some lime juice in it, but also fenugreek seeds, cumin seeds, cayenne peppers and cloves, plus other spices. This dish was so lopsided it could have been used as a condiment – if you like lime pickle. The karahi fish was okay, but nowhere near a prize winner.

The best hint we had of excellence was provided by the vegetable curry – as near to 10 out 10 as makes any difference. Pudding was a freshly-made semolina halva. I'm not sure how many of these are served in East – Indian sweets are not to everyone's taste – but they did a really good job in the kitchen with our version. Ten out of 10? I think so.

Sparkling, lively and welcoming, East exudes a sense of well being. The food we sampled – and on a single visit sampling is all one can do – left me somewhat perplexed as to the awards it has been laden with, but if a restaurant can be described as charismatic, then East is certainly that. It is also good value.

Open seven days a week, lunch to midnight. It has its own car park, and there is some street parking nearby.

Our meal with the three main dishes and a bottle of La Paz Sauvignon Blanc at 11, came to a little under 50.

n East Bar Lounge and Grill, Richardshaw Lane, Pudsey, LS28 6BN.

Tel 0113 255 9191. Website: www.eastbarloungegrill.com