Fruits with a zest for brightening up winter

When it is cold outside, it can be hard to think about eating fruit. But if you look carefully, there are some really bright, flavoursome varieties which are at their best at this time of the year. Some can be used in main courses, as well puddings, or eaten as a snack.

Persimmon, a golden-coloured, ball-shaped fruit with a shiny skin – rather like a yellow tomato, is perfect at this time of the year.

It is also known as Sharon fruit because it is grown extensively in Israel.

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They are often overlooked by shoppers, which is a pity because they are one of the sweetest, most succulent fruits available at this time of the year.

I always grab a few to cut into segments and eat as a snack or a quick pudding. Persimmon is gorgeous when chopped up into a salad bowl with banana and sprinkled with lime juice.

Another star is pomegranate which grows extensively across the globe in sunny, dry climates. They are usually in the shops from September to February.

Cut them in half to deliver the jewel-like arils from their bitter membrane.

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The glistening red arils can be used to decorate Middle Eastern dishes such couscous or combined with bittersweet pink grapefruit and Medjool dates in a spectacular winter fruit salad. The halves can also be juiced and added to cocktails or smoothies.

Quince is another winter favourite. It is a mysterious fruit because its flesh changes from creamy white to soft pink as it cooks and, as it does so, it releases a divine scent which permeates the house.

It is pear-shaped but looks glamorous on a plate if dressed up with a glint of edible gold for a special occasion.

You may have some cranberries left over from Christmas and if you do, they can be stewed with a little sugar, orange juice and cinnamon and stirred through thick Greek yogurt for a refreshing pudding or breakfast dish.

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When the weather in the UK is at its worst, oranges are at their best. Navel oranges are the juiciest and most flavoursome.

Orange can also be used in savoury dishes and combined with walnuts and celery makes a gorgeous tender stew.

Blood oranges are arriving in the shops any time soon and they make the most fantastic juice, which is perfect combined with a shot of Campari and a shard or two of ice.

Poached quince with gold dust

Serves 4

2 tbsp caster sugar, 250 ml water, ½ glass of dry white wine, 1 star anise, 1 vanilla pod, 2 medium sized quince or 4 hard pears, ½ lemon, dible gold

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If you cannot find quince, hard pears will be a fine substitute in this dish. Culinary gold is not as expensive as you might think and can be bought at good supermarkets.

Place the sugar, water, wine, star anise and vanilla pod in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Peel the quince and cut in half.

There is no need to remove the pips or core. If you are using pears, peel but keep whole.

Rub the cut surface of the quince, or pear, with lemon to stop browning. Lower the quince, or pears, into the water and honey and simmer until tender – about 25 minutes.

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Allow the fruit to cool and place half a quince or a whole pear on a serving dish. Carefully take a few threads of gold from the jar and drape over the surface of the fruit. Serve with cream or a little soft goat’s cheese.

Beef with celery, orange and walnuts

Serves 4

1 tbsp olive oil, 400g stewing steak, cut into cubes, 1 large onion, chopped, 1 tbsp plain flour, 1 glass red wine, 1 bay leaf, ½ tsp chopped thyme, 1 tsp chopped parsley, 1 clove garlic, crushed, 300 ml beef stock, 25g walnut halves,10g butter, 5 sticks of celery, cut crossways into two cm lengths, 1 tbsp finely shredded orange peel, salt and freshly ground black pepper

The combination of celery, walnuts and orange really turns this basic stew into something more sophisticated.

It is quick to prepare and can be left simmering on the hob while you do something else.

Heat the oil in large saucepan and add the meat.

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Fry until golden brown and remove from the pan. Add the onions and cook until they begin to turn golden brown.

Add the flour and cook slowly for two minutes.

Add the red wine, meat, bay leaf, thyme, parsley and garlic and enough stock to cover the meat.

Bring to the boil, cover and simmer for one hour.

Heat a small frying pan and toast the walnuts until crisp. Add the butter to the pan and add the celery.

Continue cooking for another two minutes.

Add the walnuts and celery to the ragout and add the finely-shredded orange peel. Continue to cook for another 30 minutes or until the beef is tender.

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Season and serve with a scattering of shredded celery leaves and some finely grated orange zest.

Pink grapefruit, Medjool date and pomegranate fruit salad

Serves 4

2 pink grapefruit, 8 Medjool dates, sliced, 1 pomegranate, cut into halves

Peel the grapefruit and cut into segments, taking care to remove all the bitter pith. Place the grapefruit segments in a bowl together with any juice which has been produced when slicing.

Add the slices of Medjool dates and stir the two fruits well.

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Hold one half of the pomegranate over the grapefruit and dates and give the base a sharp tap with a wooden spoon. The pomegranate arils will burst from the skin and fall into the bowl.

Take the second half of the pomegranate and juice in a citrus juicer or press, and add to the fruit salad.

Joan Ransley is a member of the Guild of Food Writers.

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