Good tips for mealtimes

The closest supplier to Yorkshire is Claremont Farm, Wirral, where managing director Andrew Pimbley has given over a 200 metre strip of his 20 acre asparagus patch to growing this labour intensive crop.

“White asparagus is highly prized in continental Europe for its sweeter flavour and firm nutty texture. It is a rare crop in the UK but top chefs in the North are now demanding it,” says Andrew who has been growing asparagus here since 1994.

The sandy, free-draining soil and warmer climate of the Wirral peninsular make for some of the best conditions for growing asparagus in the country.

White asparagus is the same variety as green. The only difference is the way it is grown.

“For white asparagus the soil is banked up over the spears to exclude light. This keeps the asparagus white and helps to develop a different flavour,” Andrew tells me as we walk along a 60cm high hill of dry sandy soil looking for signs of the delicacy below.

We see a small crack and Andrew plunges his hands into the soil, scrapes a hole around a white shoot peering blindly upwards.

He cuts the asparagus spear using a long bladed knife designed for the purpose.

The asparagus season is brief. Usually six weeks from the end of April until mid June after which the asparagus crown has to recover for the following year.

This cold weather has cut the season short this year and production is down by at least 50 per cent.

As we walk along the field where the asparagus is grown I ask Andrew for his top tips for cooking and storing this crop.

“White asparagus needs to be peeled before cooking and then just boiled for five minutes,” he says.

“Green asparagus cooks slightly quicker. You do not need a special tall steamer to cook asparagus, a saucepan is fine.

“I also love griddling green asparagus as it concentrates the flavour and the texture becomes slightly chewy. You can top it with lovely flavours like chilli, garlic and lemon. Asparagus stores really well in the fridge for a week if sealed in a plastic bag.”

Another great idea for using asparagus is in soup.

The recipe below comes from the Asparagus Patch, the UK’s first pop-up restaurant set up by Andrew in Liverpool One to coincide with the asparagus season.

Next year he hopes to roll out the idea. Let’s hope an Asparagus Patch pops up in York or Harrogate or Leeds in 2014.

White asparagus with tarragon hollandaise

Serves 4 as a starter

Ingredients

400g white asparagus, 3 to 4 spears each

4 tbsp ready made hollandaise sauce, or freshly made if you can

1 tbsp Greek yogurt

2 tsp tarragon, chopped

pinch of flaked sea salt and freshly ground pink and black pepper

zest from one lemon

METHOD

Rinse and peel the asparagus spears and set to one side. Add the Greek yogurt to the ready made hollandaise and mix well.

Stir the chopped tarragon into the hollandaise and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Steam or boil the asparagus for five minutes until tender.

Drain the asparagus and serve with the tarragon hollandaise, a sprinkle of pink pepper and fine strips of lemon zest.

Asparagus and herb polenta pizza

Serves 2

Ingredients

For the polenta base

500ml vegetable stock

80g quick polenta

25g butter

1 tsp finely chopped rosemary

1 tsp finely chopped thyme

For the topping

6 cherry tomatoes

250g thin asparagus spears

1 tbsp olive oil

pinch of flaked sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

100g Taleggio, rind removed and cut into small pieces

½ tsp red chilli, finely chopped

zest from half a lemon, cut into very thin strips

6 mint leaves, chopped into ribbons

METHOD

Preheat oven to 200C/Gas 6. Place vegetable stock in a saucepan and bring to the boil.

Add the polenta in a thin stream and stir well. Continue to cook the quick polenta for five minutes, stirring continuously.

Stir the butter and chopped rosemary and thyme into the cooked polenta.

Spread the polenta onto a lightly oiled baking tray to an oval shape about 24cm in length.

Place in the oven for 15 minutes or until it is just beginning to brown.

Meanwhile lay cherry tomatoes on a baking sheet, dribble with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Roast the tomatoes slowly in the oven for about 20 minutes or until they are soft and changed to a deep red colour.

Heat the griddle. Snap the ends from the asparagus and place the spears in a bowl with the olive oil and a little salt and pepper.

Mix well to coat each spear with a little seasoned oil. Place the asparagus on the griddle and cook for about 5 minutes until tender.

Turn the asparagus after three minutes to ensure even cooking. Remove from the griddle and place on top of the polenta together with the Talaggio, chilli and lemon zest.

Place under a hot grill for about five minutes to melt the cheese. Serve with ribbons of mint scattered over the polenta, asparagus pizza.

Asparagus Patch soup

Serves 6

Ingredients

4 tbsp rapeseed oil

1 large onion, chopped

250g floury potato, peeled and cubed

350g asparagus, rinsed

1500ml vegetable stock

1 lemon, juice only

sea salt and black pepper

1 rasher of bacon (optional)

METHOD

In a large saucepan, sweat the onion in the oil for 10 minutes on a medium heat.

Add the potatoes and continue to cook for five minutes.

Add the stock and bring to the boil. Remove the woody ends from the asparagus. Roughly chop the asparagus and add to the saucepan.

Lower the heat, cover and simmer the soup for 15 minutes or until vegetables are cooked.

Allow the soup to cool slightly and liquidise.

Season with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper and add lemon juice to taste. Grill bacon and chop finely as a garnish for the soup.

Joan Ransley is a member of the Guild of Food Writers.