Hype and glory

The Shibden Mill Inn near Halifax scooped the title from Welcome to Yorkshire – the county’s tourism agency – this summer amidst a swathe of publicity. So it was no surprise on a splendidly sunny Sunday that the car parks were full and the huge outdoor terrace overflowing with what seemed to be happy diners and drinkers. The inn nestles in a pretty valley and I was seeing it at its best. I can’t help but wonder what it might be like negotiating the hill into the valley in the winter as it is precarious even on a clear summer’s day.

Inside is a warren of rooms, cubby holes and alcoves, again packed with diners. Tempting as it was to sit in the sun, the interior is seductive in its cosiness. The fireplaces were having a respite, but in the winter this would make a lovely place to be snowed in.

Several ticks went straight into my box of likes at the bar, where helpful and smiling staff serve an array of real ales and wine chosen from an extensive list. Despite the number of customers flowing through the doors there was very little waiting time both at the bar or in being seated. I started to suspect there’s a pretty efficient team here.

And the menu. Sunday lunch must include the usual culprits and there they were, a choice of three roasts (lamb, beef and pork) with all the trimmings and clearly stated served pink unless you ask otherwise. The trio was supported by starters ranging from roast beetroots through belly pork, scallops, mackerel, rabbit, to a grey squirrel cottage pie. Yes you did read that correctly. The furry creatures are something of a pest in the valley so the team at the Shibden felt that putting them beneath a bed of mash might help in that respect.

In dedication to my work of course I had to order the dish, but to my disappointment they had run out. I am told the meat tastes lightly gamey and is (obviously) very popular with the regulars.

The disappointment of no furry pie was more than made up for by the pretty plate of roasted beetroots which came dressed all light and summery and made a perfect starter in its lightness. Crisp belly pork served with succulent, tender curried scallops, chili and ginger jam and crumbles of peanuts, was thankfully again, not too large a portion. Being so moreish one could easily have eaten it twice over.

Both the lamb and the beef roasts were hefty potions of meat, cooked exceptionally well. That was something of a surprise. I have no idea how the kitchen could manage to serve such beautifully pink meat on such a busy day. Alongside, creamy mashed potato, swede, cabbage, crisp roast potatoes, broccoli and a silky, deep flavoured gravy – a proper Sunday lunch and just as it should be. The pleasure of the food was heightened by the atmosphere surrounding us from multi-generational families, friends, couples, enjoying a great lunch.

It being Sunday, not to not have a pudding would have been rude. There were alluring treats such as lemon tarts, poached rhubarb with Bird’s custard ice cream, fruit cake and Port, and a superb array of cheeses. Sharing was by far the easiest choice. We were brought a plate comprising a little flavour of all the puds and the chocolate soufflé. It went back to the kitchen empty.

All this excellent food, conviviality and great service comes at a price. Four large glasses of wine and beer and three-course lunch for two left little change out of £65. Maybe not the cheapest Sunday lunch, but by far one of the best I had eaten in a pub for quite some time. When weighed against with the quality of the food and sublime cooking, this is really good value.

The steep hill seemed less precarious going up than coming down, possibly because we left feeling happy, well fed and watered. I am assured by the owners at the Shibden that even in the worst days of the past two winters, the hill has caused no problems and guests have even been picked up and brought down in the Inn’s 4 X 4. Anyway, there are also some lovely rooms should you get snowed in. So, guess where I will be heading the next time I want to visit the perfect pub?

The Verdict: Does the Shibden deserve its title? You bet it does.

Shibden Mill Inn, Shibden Mill Fold, Shibden, Halifax, West Yorkshire, HX3 7UL Tel: 01422 365840 Fax 01422 362971

Food: Mon to Thu - noon till 2pm and 6pm till 9.30pm. Fri & Sat - noon till 2.30pm and 6pm till 9.30pm. Sun - noon till 7.30pm. Bar: Mon to Thu - noon till 2.30pm and 5.30pm till 11pm. Fri & Sat - noon till 11pm. Sun - noon till 10.30pm.