Kashmiri Aroma, Burley-in-Wharfedale

The decor is simple yet sophisticated – neutral colours of beige and gold combined with crisp white linen tablecloths create a relaxed yet professional atmosphere. A flexible dining area means that even though there is space to seat up to 120, partition doors can be pulled across to make the ambience more intimate.

Originally a grand private Victorian house fronting onto the A65, motorists may recall that for many years subsequently it was a Little Chef. After 23 years trade slackened off and it closed in 2004, remaining empty and abandoned for four years. There were various rumours of the building possibly being converted into apartments but planners insisted that the green belt site would remain for business use only.

The Kashmiri Aroma opened in September 2008. The managing director, Tariq Mahmood, brought 20 years' experience in the restaurant trade and 12 years as a head chef. It has been a huge local success story judging by the car park, which is regularly full.

The recipe is simple: good service, quality dishes and sensible prices. Given the conditions outside, there was a respectable number of fellow diners on our visit. Sampling an Indian restaurant's onion bhajis is often a good indicator of the general quality of what the kitchen can do. These were of a high standard, light and crispy with no suggestion

of stodge.

A fish starter of Lahorie Machli came as segments of filleted fish, marinated and then dipped in spicy batter and deep fried. The combination of light batter and succulent fish is irresistible, enhanced by being served with a small quantity of fresh salad. It sharpened the appetite for the main course.

The Afghani Murgh, one of the chef's specials, was a dish of sliced chicken breast in bite-sized chunks cooked with tomatoes, onions and sliced ginger to adds a little nip, plus garlic, green chillies (fairly gentle in heat), coriander, fresh lime, pepper, herbs and milder spices.

Dishes are given a red chilli rating in the menu to denote their relative hotness, the mildest being Makhni dishes (one chilli rating) and the hottest Vindaloo with five. The Afghani Murgh has three. Lemon rice is a good accompaniment, its moistness and tanginess complementing the chicken dish. The vegetarian choice on the menu is extensive and I chose a mouth-watering Balti Matar Paneer – fresh garden peas, cubes of chewy Kashmiri style cured cheese, onions, green chillies and coriander. The peas were cooked to just the right consistency – their crunchiness contrasting nicely with tangy chewiness of the cheese and the soft sweetness of the onions.

A side order of naan bread is always a sensible idea for soaking up the juices and neutralising any excess heat. The plain nan was light and fluffy – no hint of greasiness – and retained its softness and moistness throughout the meal.

We chose a crisp, fruity Chilean Sauvignon Blanc from a wide selection of modestly-priced wines. Indian beers, lagers and ciders are also available. For pudding we chose two traditional Indian desserts – Ras Malai, a sweet, milky confection of ricotta-style

cheese discs soaked in sweetened, thickened milk, and Gulab Jamun, milky dough balls in syrup. Both were very sweet, but the sensible portions meant they were a palatable finish to a delicious dinner.

Service was friendly, informed and attentive (though not overly so). The bill for our three-course meal for two with wine and coffee was 47.60 excluding service. Highly recommended.

The Kashmiri Aroma, Coutances Way, Ilkley LS29 7HQ. Tel 01943 865554. www.kashmiriaroma.com. Open seven days a week. Monday to Thursday 5.30pm-11pm, Friday and Saturday 5.30pm-11.30pm, Sunday 12.30pm-10.30pm. Buffet evenings on Sunday and Monday 6pm-9pm, 11.95. Takeaways and event catering available.