Kendells Bistro, Leeds.

There are some dining experiences that are perfect from the moment you step over the threshold to the second you leave.

This was one such occasion. Standing on a side street around the corner from the West Yorkshire Playhouse and opposite the Leeds College of Music and the BBC building, Kendells does not announce itself with any great fanfare. It's a fairly ordinary-looking glass-doored entrance but once you get inside, it is as if you have been transported to a chic little neighbourhood restaurant in Paris.

Understated elegance and sophistication are key in the decor and furnishing – simple wooden chairs and tables, candles, linen napkins, good quality heavy cutlery, the crisp black and white garb of the waiting staff, French posters on the wall all combine to give an impression of style and good taste.

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Low lighting and warm colours create an ambience that is warm, welcoming and intimate and at the same time classy without being intimidating. Well-chosen music plays at a reasonable volume with Piaf, Brel and Greco warbling seductively in the background.

Led to our table by the matre d', he inquired whether we were going on to the theatre and, if so, he recommended the pre-theatre menu. Since we were, indeed, on our way to the West Yorkshire Playhouse, that's what we opted for.

Kendells' pre-theatre menu between 5.30pm and 7.30pm has a choice of two courses for 14.95 or three for 16.95. There are no hand-held menus, everything is written up – in true French tradition – on a big blackboard which details both the pre-theatre and la carte options. The wine list is exclusively French and we chose one of the more moderately priced sauvignon blancs served by the glass which was crisp, dry, yet wonderfully fruity. While we studied the blackboard and sipped the wine, a basket of authentic looking – and tasting – French bread appeared. It had the nice light and open texture of a baguette from a Parisian boulangerie.

The Salade du Chvre starter was sumptuous, combining flavours subtly and satisfyingly. The blending of goat's cheese with roast beetroot and garlic, topped with crumbles of walnut, delights the taste buds without overloading the appetite. The Gratin Lyonnais (French Onion soup) was delicious – just the right amount of sweet onion, topped with a slice of toasted ficelle and cheese. The Saumon en Crote main course is a difficult dish to get right – the pastry can all too often be under- or over-cooked, with the risk of the fish suffering all sorts of unseen consequences if you don't quite judge it right. Here, served with a herb mayo and beurre blanc, the texture of the pastry was perfection while the flesh of the salmon flaked and melted in the mouth. Accompanied by freshly-baked gratin dauphinois potatoes (creamy, soft and delicious), this was one of those relatively rare gastronomic experiences of pure enchantment. The Menage Trois – a medley of three vegetarian treats, Leek and Roquefort Tart, White Bean and Aubergine Timbale and Spinach and Pine Nut Croquette – was a delightful combination served with a crisp salad. All the flavours of each component worked harmoniously together.

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Even when dining with a limit to one's time, there is the need to savour one's food. No respectable restaurant should be offering on its menu dishes which can easily be dashed off at home: you expect quality, ingenuity, love and care to go in to every dish. This is exactly what Kendells provides. The French-trained, Halifax-born chef/proprietor Steve Kendell says he is inspired by the kind of French cuisine you would find in any restaurant in rural France. There is no pretension here, just good quality, lovingly prepared and well-presented French food. It is all very accessible and unlike in many real French restaurants, there is a good range of choice for the vegetarian. Sadly, we didn't have enough time to sample the desserts, but the tempting choice of Petit Pot au Chocolat, Tarte aux Citron, Creme Brle or Praline de Noix are good enough reasons in themselves for a return visit.

Service was spot-on, friendly and approachable yet thoroughly professional. A question we posed about the provenance of the wine drew a blank from the waiter who said he would go and inquire. Within minutes he returned with the answer. It's that kind of service – efficient but unfussy – that makes you feel as a diner that you are in safe hands.

Another big plus – there is no fixed service charge. A note on the blackboard explains that all tips, at your own discretion, are shared equally between the staff. It's rare to find a place where the food and wine, the atmosphere, the decor and the service are all of such a high standard. Nothing could have been bettered: Kendells Bistro is a real gem.

Kendells Bistro, St Peter's Square, Leeds, LS9 8AH. Tel 0113 243 6553. Open Tuesday to Saturday 5.30pm till late. Pre-theatre menu available between 5.30 and 8pm, Tuesday to Thursday and 5.30 to 7.30 on Friday and Saturday. Two courses 14.95, three courses 16.95, three courses with bottle wine 22.95.

A la carte menu also available. www.kendellsbistro.co.uk

YP MAG 8/5/10

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