Kiwi polish

New Zealand: Christine Austin kicks off a comprehensive guide to the wines of the host nation of the Rugby World Cup.

I am seriously jealous of anyone who has the opportunity to fly out to New Zealand see some of the games. This is one of my favourite wine-producing countries in the world. Its spectacular scenery, friendly people and glorious wines make it a great destination, whether or not you have a ticket to the games.

The fact that most of the matches are being shown live means that the most likely accompaniment to the action will be coffee and toast, but there will be so many repeats and long-winded analysis of the games that there is bound to be an opportunity to grab a glass of wine.

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New Zealand’s wine industry has grown exponentially in the last few decades and the producers have managed to tread a fine line between popularity and quality.

Now New Zealand is the automatic choice when looking for Sauvignon Blanc, but there are a lot more flavours in this country’s repertoire than gooseberries and fresh-cut grass. From elegant Chardonnays to soft, stylish Pinot Gris, and from fragrant Pinots to substantial Shiraz, New Zealand can beat the world when it comes to flavour.

Of course, Sauvignon Blanc is the natural choice if you are looking for a zesty, thirst-quenching start to any match and the Marlborough region at the top of South Island is now planted wall-to-wall with vines.

The key to this area is the old river bed of the Wairau Valley where big round stones have created a well-drained site for vines. These vines seem to drag minerally complexity from deep under the earth and it shows in the wines which range from simple, gooseberry-fresh flavours in good value wines such as Cowrie Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2010 (£5.99 Waitrose) to crunchy, stony wines such as Saint Clair Vicar’s Choice Sauvignon Blanc 2010 (£9.99 Waitrose).

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One of the best names in New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc has changed from Montana to Brancott, after the name of its most famous vineyard which stretches out across the flatlands of Marlborough.

Because of the name-change this is being promoted regularly and Waitrose will have this wine down from an ambitious £9.49 to a good value £6.99, starting next Wednesday, so it is worth stocking up.

Once you have got through the first exciting minutes of a match then softer, smoother flavours are called for and New Zealand Chardonnay has all the crisp flavours of a cool-climate region without the layer of oak that so many drinkers now find unacceptable.

Fairleigh Estate is one of the best value versions, available from Majestic at £7.99 while Marks and Spencer has the elegant fruit of Lone Range Heretuanga Chardonnay 2009 (£9.99) which comes from the sheltered Hawkes Bay region in North Island.

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Pinot Grigio has swept through wine bars like a rash, but do not confuse the weak simple flavours of most Italian versions with the richer, softer style of New Zealand Pinot Grigio, or Pinot Gris to give it its French name.

While the origins of the grape are much the same, the depth of flavour makes the New Zealand version stand out. One of my favourites is The Ned Pinot Grigio 2010 which captures honeysuckle and white peach with a silky ripeness of flavour (£9.99 Majestic).

Also good is Mount Difficulty Pinot Gris, also from Majestic (£17.49) which comes from the spectacular landscape of Central Otago in the middle of South Island. With a challenging climate and minerally rich soils, the vines produce tiny quantities of concentrated grapes which are made into an equally concentrated wine with elegant, long flavours.

As well as its range of terrific white wines, New Zealand has now become well known for its reds. Pinot Noir is its speciality with many of its wines providing the only taste of affordable good quality Pinot from a region other than Burgundy.

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Try Brancott Estate Pinot Noir 2009 (Tesco £10.99) then move on to Wither Hills Pinot 2009 (£12.49 Majestic ) for deeper flavours and then head south to Central Otago and the bright fruit and dark cherry centre of Quartz Reef Pinot Noir 2008 (£14.99 Majestic on multibuy). This has managed to capture some of that earthy grunt more normally found in the northern hemisphere. Larry McKenna at Escarpment was the man who put New Zealand Pinot on the map and his range of wines hits the button every time.

Passionate about organics, close planted vines and own-roots planting, Larry produces a range of wines, each one packed with flavour in a structured, well-balanced way. These are wines that settle around the palate and go wonderfully with food. Head to Harrogate Fine Wine (01423 522270) for the full range which includes Escarpment 2009 (£18.99) as well as the single vineyard wines such as the dense, spice and black cherry fruit of Kupe 2009 (£28).

These are wines to keep and enjoy, so don’t drink them too quickly. Field and Fawcett in York and The Halifax Wine Company also stock these wines.

If you decide to turn your day around so that you can face watching one of the matches with a traditional meat pie in your hand rather than muesli then you will need a wine to stand up to the flavour. Head to Sainsbury where their Taste the Difference range has a simple gorgeous Hawkes Bay Gimlett Gravels Syrah 2009 at £11.99.

With real concentration, positive spice and finesse this is one to see you through from the early rounds to the knock-out stage.

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