Land of the rising vine

Japan has been growing grapes for centuries. They arrived via travellers along the Silk Road, and were first planted more than 1,000 years ago, in the Yamanashi prefecture, south west of Tokyo, which is Japan's main fruit growing region. Cultivated mainly for their medicinal properties as grapes, it was only in the 16th century when missionaries arrived that a little wine was made from them.

Eventually, in the late 1800s more vine varieties were introduced and a modest wine-making industry was established. Even so, Japanese wine is made in tiny quantities with about the same area under vine as Alsace, but of that, only 10 per cent is made into wine, the rest of the crop being used as table grapes.

It was only when the health benefits of wine drinking were published in the 1990s that Japanese people began to be interested in wine. Now, wherever I go in the world of wine, Japanese sommeliers and merchants are there, researching from Beaune to Barossa, and learning about international wine.

Japan even has a highly influential comic strip (a manga) which follows the exploits of two cartoon characters Kanzaki and his brother Issey in their search for the Drops of God as they learn about wine. A favourable comment about a particular wine from these two characters can result in huge sales in Japan. It makes a change from marks out of 100 from Robert Parker.

Because of this new interest, a group of Japanese grape growers have banded together to raise the profile and quality of their wines and I was invited to taste the first Koshu wines ever shown in London. In the Michelin-starred Kyoto-style restaurant, Umu in London's Mayfair, just a handful of journalists sat down to one of the most fascinating food and wine pairing exercises I have attended.

Koshu (pronounced co-shoe) is a grape variety unique to Japan. It belongs to the Vitis Vinifera family, so is a true wine-producing grape and is predominantly grown around the town of Katsunuma in the main grape production area of Yamanashi.

Despite being on the same latitude as the Mediterranean this region is not ideally suited to viticulture. Rainfall is high, particularly during the typhoon season in June and July and the high humidity leads to disease and rot. For that reason most of the vineyards are cultivated on a pergola system, which lifts the bunches high above the ground and into the breeze. Some producers even adorn their bunches of grapes with "hats" to keep the rain off.

But the grape variety itself is remarkable when made into wine. Crisp, clean, delicate and fragrant, it is the perfect match to Japanese cuisine.

We started with an array of Iwaizakana, a plate of small individual dishes, each one beautifully presented and different in taste and texture. Squid and sea cucumber; carved water chestnut; baby sardine; prawn simmered in stock; black bean topped with poached carrot and gold leaf.

Three Koshu wines were poured alongside, the Kayagatake 2008 being very light and fresh with minerally notes while Lumiere Koshu Sur Lie 2008 had rather more body and length. The second course of sashimi, made up of supremely fresh tuna, squid and brill, combined well with the next set of Koshu wines. Of these a tank sample of Sadoya Koshu 2009, stood out for its fruit intensity, balance and harmony with the food.

Then came a seafood dumpling in a white miso soup, where the fuller-flavoured Marquis Koshu 2009 showed well.

An aromatic dish of sea bream followed and again another three wines battled for attention.

Arugabranca Isehara 2009, from the Katsunuma Jyozo winery was distinctly different, almost Sauvignon Blanc-like in its herbaceous freshness, while Madoromi 2009 was softer, oak-aged and food friendly.

The savoury courses rounded off with a bowl of soup and rice, the rice topped with a golden steamed egg yolk which trickled through the dish, adding weight and creamy flavours to the food. This went best with some of the oak aged Koshu wines, in particular L'Orient 2008 which had Burgundian tones with a nutty, rich flavour. A typical Japanese dessert of a sweet red bean curd and grilled rice cake was not matched to wine but by this time I had a firm idea about the Koshu grape and the wines it produces.

These are not the kind of wines to pick up from a supermarket shelf for a Friday night supper. But alongside Japanese food their citrussy freshness and delicate style make them the perfect accompaniment. For a taste comparison, think Muscadet, Italian Garganega or a dry Italian Pinot Grigio.

Will these wines find a market in the UK? I think they will, but at a price. The cost of these wines is likely to be quite high, since there is only a tiny quantity available and that has to satisfy the growing demand from Japan as well as overseas. They are much more likely to be found on the list of a top-class Japanese restaurant, rather than in a wine shop, and this is the perfect place to experience their food-friendly nature.

They will also score well with those trying to moderate their alcohol intake. Koshu wines generally achieve between 10 – 12 degrees of alcohol, and usually hover around 11 per cent which makes them doubly light and refreshing.

Stocks of Koshu wines will soon leave Japan for the UK. Be sure to look out for them.