New world takes on old

And then there are the better times, like last week for example which had the world and its vignerons in London for the annual Burgundy tastings. Not only that but the New Zealanders were in town too, with an array of their sauvignons, chardonnays, new sweet wines and of course their fabulous pinot noirs. I was like a kid in a sweetshop, dashing from tasting to tasting, grabbing all those glorious flavours and logging them carefully in my brain and my notebook. This was a perfect opportunity to compare chardonnays and pinot noirs from the northern and southern hemispheres and to see where the value and best flavours can be found.

First to the Burgundies, which were essentially from the 2008 vintage, now being offered en primeur by most large merchants. This was a difficult vintage, mainly because of poor weather during the growing season. A cool, damp spring was followed by much of the same in the summer, relieved by short bursts of sunshine. Even as September approached conditions were not good, but in the second week the sun came out and stayed out.

Coupled with a brisk north wind and good temperatures the grapes dried out, ripened and the vignerons started to think that they might just get a crop that year. Grape sorting was essential to eliminate rot, but for the growers who did that the result is a good, but not great quality vintage.

The fact that crop levels were already low meant that ripeness was achieved, although there is a streak of freshness running though the wines which is good in the whites, particularly chablis, and is not unpleasant in some of the lower ranks of the reds.

Prices for the 2008 vintage are generally around the same level or a touch lower than the 2007 and these wines offer the chance to try some early maturing good quality producers ahead of the undoubtedly superior 2009s which are sure to be a lot more expensive.

Berry Bros. (www.bbr.com; 01256 340123) scored particularly well in my opinion. These are some of my favourites from their new 2008 offer.

Whites

Domaine Patrick Javillier, Clos des Clousots, 2008 Meursault, 282 in bond.

Simple on the nose at first but opens out into a harmonious and stylish wine. Acidity showing, but balanced by the fruit. Should develop well.

Domaine Arnaud Ente, 2008 Meursault 330 in bond. Rich, and open on the nose, with deep minerally complexity on the palate. Acidity quite prominent but it has the concentration to harmonise and develop well.

Domaine Olivier Merlin, Pouilly-Fuiss, Clos des Quarts, 2008, 192 in bond. Late picking and old vines has given this wine expressive fruit and real concentration, with the backbone of acidity ensuring time for development. Buy and hide for a couple of years.

Reds

Domaine David Clark 2008 Cte de Nuits Villages, 168 per case in bond

Pure fruit and delicious scents in this Villages wine which is made by a young Scot who is acquiring vineyards by inches, not hectares. Tiny yields, organic production, and meticulous winemaking. And very good value.

Domaine de la Vougeraie Les Evocelles 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin 234 per case in bond. Sweet, silky fruit here, with surprising concentration and complexity. Rather good value for the quality. This property works to biodynamic principles.

Domaine Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romane 2008 360 in bond. I loved all the wines from this Vosne-Romane producer, but prices are high for the top cuves. Try the straightforward village wine with its savoury fruit, balanced style and long finish. Still quite tight, so plan to keep it for a while.

With so many good Burgundies available for tasting, I did wonder whether I would give the New Zealand tasting a miss. I was glad that I didn't, mainly because it gave me the chance to compare the wines, particularly pinots while the tastes were still fresh on my palate.

New Zealand has become the first point of call for good pinot noir, especially when Burgundy is just too expensive. The wines are also much easier to find, and can usually be bought by the bottle when you need them, rather than by the case.

What these tastings showed me is that while New Zealand has come on in leaps and bounds in quality and reliability, there just isn't the delicacy and balance that Burgundy can achieve.

Of course, the wine growing regions are 7,000 miles apart and each is making their own style of wine.

New Zealand is not trying to make Burgundy, but from a consumer point of view the two are frequently compared for style and price.

The New Zealand pinots which stood out for me, presented in price order, were:

Wild Rock, Cupid's Arrow, Central Otago 2007, about 10 Wrightson & Co, (01748 832 666) and Cairns and Hickey (0113 267 3746) Part of the excellent Craggy Range organisation, Wild Rock captures elements of funk as well as fruit in its wines.

With bright, lively flavours, layers of dark, berry fruit and enough structure to stand alongside chicken and spring lamb, this is a great, good value choice.

Carrick Unravelled 2006, Central Otago, Field and Fawcett 10.95 (01904 489073) A lightish style, but don't let that fool you, there is complexity behind the strawberry fruit which makes this a wine to match with all kinds of food from baked salmon to roast pheasant.

Mission Estate Reserve Pinot Noir, 2008, Central Otago, Le Bon Vin (0114 256 0090)14.95 on multibuy

Based in Hawkes Bay on North Island, Mission is New Zealand's oldest wine producing estate, but these grapes come from chilly Central Otago and the wine has concentrated dark cherry fruit with spiced blackberry notes and fine elegant tannins.

Escarpment Pinot Noir 2007, Martinborough, 17.95 Field and Fawcett Larry McKenna's attention to detail in his vineyard is legendary and his wines are improving all the time.

He has some new single vineyard releases, available in tiny quantities and with extraordinary depth, but I still find the estate wine the most straightforward and open in its style.

Great dark cherry fruit, with touches of smoke and a long, savoury finish.