Pronounced problems

In just the same way that some types of fish have been renamed to encourage more people to ask for them, maybe there are some grape varieties that should be given the same treatment. We were all too embarrassed to ask for a fish called Pollack, so it has been given the bizarre but easy to pronounce name of Colin.

So what are the chances of anyone pitching up at a wine counter and asking for the excellent, but challenging, white grape variety Czerszegi Fuszeres?

For a start, the pronunciation, which comes much more easily once you have enjoyed a bottle, is really quite simple – Cher-zeggy Fooz-air-rees. It takes practice but anyone who has mastered Gewrztraminer in recent years won't find this a problem.

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And then there is the taste, which is why it is well worth tackling how to say it, because when you pour this wine for your friends they are bound to ask you what it is.

With an aromas of just-opened freesias and a refreshing taste of apple and ripe pear fruit, topped with a light touch of spice this is a lively, zesty wine that I would be happy to pour as an aperitif and then carry through to a lunch where there is definitely spice on the menu.

This isn't a wine to put with curry, it is far too light in texture for that, but if you have spice-sprinkled Thai or Chinese foods, then it will combine delightfully. It comes from Hungary and is the product of crossing several aromatic varieties, including Gewrztraminer and Muscat. The version I tried comes from the Hilltop winery in north west Hungary where they manage to produce consistent good quality at a bargain price. Morrisons have the 2009 vintage for just 4.29. This is definitely a summer wine, so grab some before the sunshine disappears.

Another candidate for the Colin treatment could be the Italian white grape variety Falanghina (Fal-an-gee-na) from southern Italy. This is an old Italian variety which may have been the basis of the fabled wine of ancient Rome – Falernian. Now it is confined to the hills east of Naples but is also grown in Puglia where they have started to take an interest in this high quality, unusual grape. The taste combines a whole range of fruits, from ripe Victoria plums, guava and pineapple, overlaid with citrus and backed by a streak of minerals, but more than that it has a rounded texture which makes it good to drink with foods such as grilled fish and even vegetarian foods such as toasted goat's cheese and peppers.

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Of the various Falanghina wines I have tried recently I particularly enjoyed the one from Waitrose (7.99) Via Collina 2009 from Puglia but also liked Majestic's Terredora Falanghina 2009 (9.99, down to 7.99 on multibuy until August 30).

Ask for Pecorino at most deli counters and they will slice you off a piece of cheese, but Pecorino is also a grape variety grown on the east coast of central Italy, in the Marche and Abruzzo. This grape also dates back to Roman times and again is making a slow comeback as growers realise the value of their treasure trove of local varieties. Head to Majestic to enjoy the honeysuckle and passion fruit nose of Sistina Pecorino 2009 from Terre di Chieti, backed by lemon and lime zest and filled out with broad, complex, almost savoury style. 8.74, down to 6.99 on multibuy until August 30. Marks and Spencer also has a Pecorino 2009 (9.99) which I found echoes the same textural qualities of the Sistina wine, with slightly less overt, lively fruit.

In the misty hills of Piemonte, the white Arneis grape is also going through something of a revival. It was traditionally used to soften in some Barolos and often would occupy just a few rows alongside Nebbiolo, but now its gentle, exotic perfume character is valued on its own, particularly in the Roero, north of Alba. Majestic has the softly perfumed, dry, almost bitter almond character of Roero Arneis 2009 from Marco Porello for 9.99, down to 7.99 on multibuy until August 30. This is a wine I would pour with a buffet lunch; its elegant style goes well with all kinds of foods from cold roast chicken through quiches, salmon and salads. Tesco has Araldica Arneis (6.29) from the Langhe which I enjoyed for its nutty, delicate style, but the vintage I tried was 2007 which is slightly old. If you can find a fresher vintage then go for it, otherwise head to Majestic for their version.

These days Fiano is almost mainstream but just a decade ago it was on the brink of extinction as plantings in southern Italy had dwindled dramatically. Traditionally it comes from Campania, producing a honeysuckle and citrus-charged wine that once again goes tremendously well with food. Majestic has Fiano "Fremendo" 2009 from the hilly, inland area of Sannio (8.74, down to 6.99 on multibuy) while new vineyards in Sicily are producing Inycon Grower's Selection Fiano 2009 (6.49, Waitrose) which I found fresh, elegant and really quite delicious.

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Italy does not have a monopoly on unusual and difficult grape varieties and there are plenty of opportunities to practise pronunciation when you drink wines from Galicia in north west Spain. Try Burgans Albario 2009 (Oddbins 11.99) for soft textured apricot-scented, delicate flavours or move up to the bigger challenge of a blend using Treixadura, Albario and Godello in Via Costeira 2009 from Ribera (Waitrose 7.99).

Of course the benefit of buying wine in supermarkets is that you don't actually need to pronounce the grape variety before you buy the wine, but it does help with confidence to be able to say the name while you are actually drinking it.

Alternatively, you could adopt a similar practice of a friend of mine who refused to learn the names of his daughter's various boyfriends until one had been around long enough to look like a possible prospect. He called them all Brian until then. Well, it makes a change from Colin.

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