Pub of the week: The Adelphi, Leeds

SOMETIMES city centre watering holes can have a certain fly-by-night quality, as if you might nip outside for a cigarette only to discover your pub has morphed into a tapas bar or nail salon upon your return.

Others, however, are simply institutions – the sort of places you’d expect to still be standing even after the city itself has been razed.

The Adelphi falls squarely into the latter category. Its fine late-Victorian façade is a landmark, a prominent red-brick edifice on the southern edge of the city centre. It stands yards from the hulk of Tetley’s, for which it was once a brewery tap.

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If you live in Leeds, the chances are you’re already acquainted with the Adelphi’s vast, sprawling interior, the endless nooks and crannies, the shabbily ornate wooden panelling, the staircase leading up to more inviting spaces where comedy nights and cupcake competitions are regularly held.

It is the universality which makes the Adelphi unique, its effortless mix of classic local pub with vaguely trendy boozer appealing to as many different types of people as live in Leeds itself. For 110 years now it has been this way – though that doesn’t mean the place isn’t changing. The food has improved markedly over the past 12 months, being dragged rapidly upmarket so that even the bar snacks now sound posh. Breaded pig cheeks with piccalilli, anyone?

But make no mistake – the Adelphi remains a drinkers’ pub. The beer is mainly local, with Leeds Best, Leeds Pale Ale and Timothy Taylor all featuring alongside several frequently-changing guest ales.

And if it’s the morning after the night before, their elaborate Bloody Marys are also well worth a go.

THE VERDICT

Welcome***

Drinks selection****

Atmosphere*****

Food****

Prices***