Pub Of The Week: The Cooper and Griffin, Bawtry

Maybe something about a humble brewery worker meeting a mythical beast in a forest glade. If the barman on duty is to be believed, the reality is more prosaic – a combination of the surnames of two of the business partners who run the place.

This was, for scores of years, The Marquis of Granby, a pub that (so legend has it) was called after the benefactor of the original landlord. Later it became The Penny Farthing – but not for long, for, as one of the regulars at the bar confided the other day, it was “the sort of pub where you walked through the door, had a look about and turned quickly on your heels”.

Now, with a full makeover, and yet another change of proprietor, The Cooper is precisely the place that you’d like to have a few pints. Someone has gone to a great deal of trouble here, creating a very pleasant, comfortable environment, without getting too twee and chintzy.

It is all very much “work in progress” however, for, at the time of writing, there is limited food available. The kitchen has not been fully opened, and the best the C&G can offer is the usual range of crisps and nuts. You may be lucky enough to have some pleasant enough sandwiches and pasties from a chiller cabinet.

However, there are plans to re-open the eight or so bedrooms upstairs to B&B guests and the C&G has just run a hugely successful beer festival. Often alive with music, there’s an ample beer garden to the rear, which catches the sun for most of the day, and everything indoors is spotless. The car park leads directly onto the busy main road – you might need a little care in getting out on to it. I have the feeling that the venerable old Marquis of Granby would be more than proud of his (indirect) descendant.

Phil Penfold

The Cooper and Griffin, 52 High Street, Bawtry DN10 6JA. 01302 714547.

THE VERDICT

Welcome*****

Drinks selection*****

Atmosphere*****

Food*

Prices****