A ray of sunshine

It’s more than a short hop from Sydney to Lindley, but Eric Paxman has not only made the leap, he’s brought some of the sunshine vibe. Not that it’s immediately obvious, given it’s a damp summer night.

But a smiling welcome disperses the rain, and as we shrug off our macs a quick scope round the room reveals a pleasing mix of contemporary and old. You’re in a row of Victorian terraces here, and funky furniture stands on original scrubbed oak floors and ceilings are lofty. It’s good to see that a stylish refurb hasn’t cost the elegant building its integrity.

Born and bred in Huddersfield, Eric started his cooking career at the tech college before finding his fortune in London with Marco Pierre White at L’Escargot. But his feet were itchy and he traveled the world, landing in Sydney where the charismatic Bill Granger proved to be Eric’s biggest influence.

Granger has brought his simple, pared-down recipes to our TVs and bookshelves, and now we can have an idea what it might feel like to eat at Bill’s. Not that Eric is a total slave to the style; he brings his own hard-earned experience to the table.

The main dining room is upstairs in an airy, beamed and raftered room with an impressive exposed stone wall at either end. A luxuriously padded banquette runs along one long wall, with huge abstract canvases above. Glasses gleam, candles flicker and classy tunes sooth.

Service is friendly, efficient and smooth. A jug of iced tap water comes to the table without being asked for, and a bottle of perfectly chilled Pinot Grigio follows quick sticks. The wine prices are on the steep side, but this Mannara Grillo is a bit special. Unbelievably, I’m back in “can’t chooseville” – the menu is so good looking it’s going to be a struggle.

I love the sound of grilled mackerel fillet Nicoise, and the marinated Feta, smoked tomato and watercress rings my bell. But in the end I land on crayfish risotto, fennel salsa and spiced tempura courgette. One of the best-looking plates of food I’ve seen in some time arrives; pretty, full of colour and interest and above all, taste. The risotto is perfectly judged and the crisp, fat-free tempura spiked with tiny flecks of chilli. I could have eaten it twice.

Goat’s cheese and red pepper spring roll with rocket and walnut salad is another looker, and delivers on taste, the punchy cheese nicely coupled with sweet pepper, the pastry shattering on impact with a fork.

Just when you think it can’t get any better, pan-fried fillet of cod, tagine of Merguez sausage and king prawns, rapeseed oil aioli arrives and blows my tiny mind. It’s a simple dish – almost rustic – but so cleverly calibrated, so cheerfully put together, it takes me to another place. I’m gazing across glistening Huddersfield rooftops to the distant flinty moors, but in my head I’m Med-bound. I finally put my finger on the special quality at play here. Eric’s food is shot through with sunshine, Granger’s steady hand guiding the menu and the execution. Subconscious or not, it works.

Seared fillet of salmon, potato rosti, buttered greens and avocado mayonnaise is a similarly summery plate; subtle, delicate and imbued with a vivacity that makes your heart sing.

The pudding menu is rooted nearer home, with the likes of iced honeycomb and ginger parfait with lemon sherbet, and baked Irish cream cheese cake with poached raspberries. We go totally local with Eric’s Yorkshire curd tart, blueberries and liquorice ice cream. It’s at this point I realize that he’s got a sense of humour as well as an addiction to ultra violet rays.

His logo is a dessert spoon, wittily woven in to his name, and there’s an icing sugar ghost of one shimmering somewhere under the pitch-perfect tart and slick of sticky, sharp berries. By now the British Summertime Blues have been banished and wide grins split our faces.

You’ll need deep-ish pockets here, but save up, because Eric’s food takes you on a trip you won’t easily forget.

And anyway his early evening menu will set you back £18 quid for two or £22 for three courses, which is phenomenal value.

Beat a path to his door before his wanderlust kicks in and he’s off again. He reckons he’s settled, but if I were you, I wouldn’t risk it. Just go.

Meal for two with a bottle of wine at £16.95 was £67.

Closed Monday. Tuesday – Thursday 12-2, 6-10. Friday 12-2, 5.30-10; Saturday 5.30-10.Sunday 12-6pm

75 Lidget Street, Lindley, Huddersfield, HD3 3JP 01484 646416 www.ericsrestaurant.co.uk