The Red Pepper Deli and Bistro, Ben Rhydding, Ilkley

New owners took over last May, added the "and Bistro" to their name and since the end of January have been opening on a Friday and Saturday evening for dinner. The take-up for weekend dining has so far been pretty good according to our friendly waitress.

The bistro seats 16, so it's cosy, like going round for dinner at a friend's house. The proximity of the kitchen means that you can hear the preparations going on and culinary aromas drift out to whet the appetite. More might be made of the "small is beautiful" appeal. In such a snug space, there could be less formality: both owners were present on the night of our visit and it might not have been a bad idea for them to come out for a chat with diners – some of whom, unlike us, had been at least once before. That kind of personal touch can make all the difference to a dining experience. However, it's early days yet.

The interior of the Deli has been redecorated and refitted, furnished with chunky wooden chairs and tables, the walls painted a warm and vibrant Mediterranean yellow. The lighting is turned down for the evening and candlelight adds to the intimate feeling.

The music playing softly in the background was Greek – bringing to mind long-past holidays drinking Retsina in friendly bars. That was appropriate since although the menu is described as "tastings of the Mediterranean", the dishes were predominantly Greek.

There were appetisers of olives and feta on offer at 1.25 and 1.75 to nibble, while starters included Greek salad, a selection of dips – hummus, tzatziki and taramasalata (4.50 each) served with pitta bread –Keftedakia (Greek meatballs) and soupa horiatiki (vegetable soup).

The sole non-Greek starter was portabella mushrooms filled with Stilton mousse, topped with a herb crust and "enhanced" with port wine cream. We chose the saganaki garides (king prawns gently cooked with tomatoes, feta and herbs then oven baked) – the most expensive starter at 5.25 – and gigante plaki (giant beans, slow cooked with tomatoes, onions and garlic).

The prawns were delicious and cooked to perfection, the rich tomato and herb sauce enlivened further by the sharp flavour of the feta cheese. The beans would have benefited from a more exciting sauce. The tomatoes, onion and garlic lent less flavour or body than expected so that the dish was a little bland. There was a good selection of vegetarian main courses, including Briam (oven baked Mediterranean vegetables flavoured with Dill) at 10.95 and Roasted Root Vegetables flavoured with fresh thyme, bound in a rich red wine sauce served on a butternut squash mash.

The third option was Haloumi Souvlaki (marinated Greek haloumi cheese skewered with vegetables, served on fragrant rice with tzatsiki and salad plume). The vegetables of cherry tomatoes, courgette and peppers combined well with the chewy consistency of the haloumi, the tzatziki, rice and salad all complementing the souvlaki well. At 11.95, however, it was, in my opinion, a bit over-priced.

Two fish options were also available – Lavraki Psito (grilled whole sea bass coated with a white wine and fresh herb butter sauce finished with lemon), at 14.95, or roast loin of cod on braised lentils with a watercress cream sauce topped with a poached egg (14.50).

There was a choice of three meat dishes: lamb kleftico (shank of lamb gently braised with red wine, vegetables, rosemary and garlic, 14.95), souvlaki kotopoulo (chicken kebab) served with rice, salad and tzatziki for 13.95 or a more traditionally English dish of sirloin steak at 16.95.

All the main courses – apart from the chicken and haloumi kebabs – are served with fresh vegetables and a choice of potatoes.

The lamb kleftico, though infused with red wine, rosemary and garlic was fairly bland and came with a disappointingly thin sauce. The dauphinoise potatoes were nicely presented but, again, lacked flavour.

For desserts, the baklava was excellent. Sometimes this traditional Greek sweet – a honey and nut patisserie – can be a bit soggy but this was perfect. The pastry was light, with just the right amount of honey to infuse it without making it droopy, and there was a generous amount of good-sized crunchy walnut pieces. The Greek yoghurt with berries and honey was a perfect light pudding, with a liberal helping of berries.

The bill for a three-course meal for two with wine (a very good French Sauvignon blanc – zesty, fruity and light) came to 64.33 before service charge. That's perhaps rather more than you would expect to pay in a little local bistro.

We were paying the kind of money a good gastro-pub might charge and the food, though good, is not yet quite up to that standard. There is clearly much potential here and the Red Pepper Bistro is likely to establish itself as a local favourite.

The Red Pepper Deli and Bistro, 139 Bolling Road, Ilkley, LS29 8PN. Tel 01943 609091. www.redpepperdeli.co.uk The Deli is open every day for coffee and lunch. The Bistro is open Friday and Saturday evenings for dinner. Booking recommended. Outside catering and home-cooked ready meals are available.

YP MAG 1/5/10