Restaurant review: The Pantry, Harrogate

For me, one of the best ways of discovering how well served a town is in the eating out department is ask its foodist residents, not TripAdvisor; I’ve seen too many bogus postings, both revenge and self-congratulatory. My gourmand accountant isn’t overly impressed with Harrogate and often observes that many places aren’t worth revisiting. Another friend swears by the Bistro du Vin and you often have to hose her out of the Tannin Level. Another foodie couple would rather do the 40-mile round trip to the Yorke Arms at Ramsgill than eat locally. Mind you, most folk (including me) would crawl on their knees to eat Frances Atkins’s food. There are honourable exceptions of course; Van Zellers won’t let you down, Orchid has a firm fan base, Mirabelle likewise. One thing’s for sure; there’s no shortage of options.

I’m assuming that chef/owner Jonathan Elvin did his market research prior to opening The Pantry on Montpellier Parade in February. It’s squeezed rather elegantly between a bistro and a bar. Van Zellers is round the corner and Betty’s is a stone’s throw, so there are plenty of distractions en route. Half the battle’s been won in that it’s got quite a lot of come hither, freshly painted and all lickety-spit, and you just know that the views over the Gardens (if you’re lunching, obviously) will be lovely.

But we’re here for dinner, and the lack of a view on an autumn evening is compensated by a sweet welcome. The ground floor is good for coffee in the mornings, with its picture window, padded blue leather armchairs and the aforementioned outlook; in the evening the action switches to the first floor dining room where the décor is simple and unshowy; floorboards, plain dark wood tables and chairs and just a hint of the Farrow & Ball-y blue that runs through the place.

The zeitgeist menu has six “small plates” six “large plates” and five puddings, with a handful of specials chalked on a board. It looks quite appealing, if a little safe, and despite being drawn to pea soup, ham hock and parsley dumplings, black pudding hash cake wins. Topped with a fried duck egg it sits in a puddle of “HP gravy” (which I first read as “Hip” with my rubbish eyes. And yes, I would have still ordered it). It’s not the prettiest plate of food but works really well, the cake crumbly and moist with bags of flavour, the HP gravy the perfect partner. My plus one (she who spends much time in the Tannin Level) is “feeling fishy” so goes for devilled Whitby crab, pickled cucumber and soda bread, which looks exactly as it sounds and tastes good; subtle but with the hint of a kick in the crab, the cucumber doing its cool thing.

Disappointingly there’s no Malbec as advertised (well, half a bottle but that’s not going to do, is it) so it’s a Rioja Crianza, imaginatively priced at £25.50. It hits the spot, but it can be picked up for under a tenner.

Jonathan Elvin has worked at “some of Europe’s finest Michelin-starred restaurants” including Gordon Ramsay at Claridges, the Burlington at the Devonshire Arms and the Star at Harome. He’s a local lad who trained at Thomas Danby and has come home. His sous is Joel Monkman, youngest son of veteran chef Chris who is currently developing recipes at Lishman’s award-winning butchers in Ilkley. So, all the credentials are present and correct.

A good looking plate of beer battered cod, marrowfat peas, hand-cut chips and tartare sauce arrives for my fishy friend and a late joiner chooses steak, chips and salad which is pronounced “faultless” and certainly looks it. As is my custom I steal chips from another plate and they’re jaggedly crisp but fluffy inside – exemplary. I like the sound of “cock-a-leekie” chicken pie with boozy prunes and braised kale but go for wild pigeon, wild mushrooms on spelt risotto with the over-used accessory du jour, toasted hazelnuts. Again, it’s not pretty, but it’s a taste sensation; creamy and deep, the pigeon pink and perfectly judged.

There’s a protracted pause between courses, the kind of time that would be uncomfortable if you were on a first date with someone whose internet profile doesn’t quite match the person’s sitting opposite you. It’s not easy to fathom the hiatus since the place isn’t full. But it turns out dessert is worth the wait.

Someone in the kitchen is playful by nature. Sticky toffee pudding sundae, salted caramel and praline arrives in a proper sundae glass; brimming with crunch it makes us all smile. Chocolate brownie is sticky, soft, warm and comes with sublime Jaffa Cake ice cream. This needs to be patented if it’s not already.

They do a set menu for lunch, two courses for eleven quid, representing significantly good value, particularly when choices include Shetland mussels, cider and bacon and a fine sounding Nidderdale chicken pie, smoked ham and leeks. There’s another option, called “With bread”. Sandwiches, then.

So, a couple of niggles, but it’s early days and they’re finding their feet. The cooking is confident, accomplished and they’ve a sense of humour (and not just with the price of the wine!) The surroundings are pleasant and service is cheerful. I get the sense that Elvin, given his head, would be sending more adventurous plates of food out were it not for second-guessing what he thinks the good people of Harrogate want. Just follow your instincts, I say. And don’t worry about what my accountant thinks. If it’s good, he’ll be back.

The Pantry, 5-7 Montpellier Square, Harrogate, North Yorkshire HG1 2TJ. 01423 224290, www.thepantryharrogate.co.uk. Closed Monday. Check website for opening times. Meal for three including £25.50 bottle of wine: £95.65.